Full power in neutral, no power in gear

[dajogejr]

br9 is a colder plug not a hotter one i thought

 

In NGK world, you are 100% correct. They are the only ones I know of that use higher numbers for colder heat range plugs.

 

Champion, Denso, Autolite to name a few, all use higher numbers for hotter heat range plugs....

 

AK...

I'm pretty sure you don't need to explain to me what glazing of a plug is, how it's caused...but maybe you should read up on heat range plugs from NGK..since you did mention a 9 series as apposed to the hotter 8 that comes stock.

 

Other things to check once you rule out electrical problems are drain all the gas, remove the fuel valve from the tank and clean the fuel screens. You'd be amazed over the years how much crap gets plugged in them.

 

The last time I had a bike that rev'd out clean and good in neutral (no load) then fell on it's face when put in gear had a nasty air leak at the base gasket and a dip inbetween the cylinders leaking coolant. (Aftermarket, mono-block cylinder)

 

Without going over your whole post again, here's what you need to do for TORS Elimination.

Clip the wires at the throttle, unplug both ends from the tops of the carb caps, unplug and remove the "brain" under the gas tank, ignition side of the bike, and unplug the parking brake (which...sounds like is already done and I missed that part)

 

Next thing you'll need to do is remove the gas tank and plastics and trace your harnesses down for a burnt or broken wire....shorting things out. Clean connections to the coil, run an extra ground wire from the engine to the frame/coil mount...

 

Then you're gonna get into the weird stuff, like a broken, frayed or rubbed wire behind the flywheel/stator...

 

Have you replaced the spark plug ends that go over the cap. Factory ones are KNOWN to go bad. 4 or 5 dollar NGK caps fix that as well.

Edited November 28, 2008 by dajogejr

[AKheathen]

br9 is a colder plug not a hotter one i thought

whoops, :shoothead: should i see a pediatrist or oral surgen for foot removal? colder plug is right, and does prevent glazing, not hotter

[Paddleboy]

whoops, :shoothead: should i see a pediatrist or oral surgen for foot removal? colder plug is right, and does prevent glazing, not hotter

 

either way you look at it the problem does not relate to plug glazing. period. it revs out good in nuetral then falls on its face under load. even a weak spark would be consistant. double check the wires like Dajogejr said.

[wayfast1500]

Check the clutch cable I was having the same issue and my tors was deleted, couldnt figure it out, but turns out I had a metal cover on my clutch cable, when I pulled the clutch in the put it in gear, the cable would ground the coil out.

[brian]

haven't you seen glazing before?

 

Maybe the problem is your eyes are "glazed".

You been smokin that shit again ? :yelrotflmao:

[bhatch21]

Hi. sorry for the absence. I pm'ed another member who was having an identical problem that was traced to his e-brake. With his help I confirmed that this bone stock, 94 banshee doesn't have the e-brake switch. My stock 95 doesn't either and the one on my 02 has been removed. I haven't put "new" plugs caps on it, but I did swap out the coil (wires and all) with the one on my 02 and that didn't fix the problem. I'm running MC-1 at 50:1, and I'm starting to think its a fuel issue. Back in the spring when these symptoms appeared while riding, I thought the bike was running out of gas. I put the fuel valve on reserve and solved the problem. From then on I noticed the bike "needed" to be on reserve when the tank was anything less than half full. I think I'll remove and clean the petcock. Thanks for all the suggestions.