right side spudders and pops

[killshee]

i just bought a 95 banshee and it was trashed when i got it i have replaced the pistons, rings, gaskets, all around, friction plates and seals i have also changed jets 3 times from a 230 that was in it to a 270 and now a 310 my right side spudders untill u get about half pinned and also sometimes pops when u let off. also likes to idle up real high sometimes. i cleand my carbs checked my feul filter and lines reeds arent gapped or cracked ...choke line has no airleeks ....idk what to do.... it has a aftermarket stator of some sort and the wire harnis is sodderd in a few places could this b the problem i grounded the coils right to the frame and it didnt help also tryed switching plug and plugs wires and still the right side :ermm:

[llawndogg]

Kinda sounds like an air leak creating a lean condition.

[AKheathen]

i just bought a 95 banshee and it was trashed when i got it i have replaced the pistons, rings, gaskets, all around, friction plates and seals i have also changed jets 3 times from a 230 that was in it to a 270 and now a 310 my right side spudders untill u get about half pinned and also sometimes pops when u let off. also likes to idle up real high sometimes. i cleand my carbs checked my feul filter and lines reeds arent gapped or cracked ...choke line has no airleeks ....idk what to do.... it has a aftermarket stator of some sort and the wire harnis is sodderd in a few places could this b the problem i grounded the coils right to the frame and it didnt help also tryed switching plug and plugs wires and still the right side :ermm:

your right side is not burning all the fuel coming through the pilot. did you check the needle and pilot jet. mooving the needle down a knotch or 2 should help, but won't fix the real problem. check for major exhaust leaks on the right, and vaccuum leaks on the left. what mods do you have, temp and altitude. as for the solder, it should have good connection, witth no stray strands, and be adequately insulated. can you tell what kind of timing it has? what do your plugs look like?

[killshee]

your right side is not burning all the fuel coming through the pilot. did you check the needle and pilot jet. mooving the needle down a knotch or 2 should help, but won't fix the real problem. check for major exhaust leaks on the right, and vaccuum leaks on the left. what mods do you have, temp and altitude. as for the solder, it should have good connection, witth no stray strands, and be adequately insulated. can you tell what kind of timing it has? what do your plugs look like?

 

 

 

 

 

 

i have not checked my needles what sould they be at? i was thinking about just getting new carbs to see if that works bc mine r stock and the bike sat for about a year even though they were well cleaned. jetting doesnt seem to have much effect compared to the yz 250 i previouly owned. my plugs look good like brownish and my timing is stock. its .50 over and has boysen replacement reeds no exaust leeks im at about 1400 ft and its about 50deg. f. i have no snorkle on my air box wanna go lid-less but i need to get prob fixed first fmf headers 50 cal pipes. uni filter. and some aftermarket stator but idk what kind it was on it when i bought it, it has a spare white wire that comes off it if that helps, i got a wire diagram off here and checked my wire harnis and its all ok but it is soldered up alot im gunna order a new harnis also i did ground coil to fram didnt help .......were all can/should i look 4 air leeks.... also if it means anything the right piston was melted and compleatly screwed when i rebuilt, but sleve was fine...

[killshee]

ok just doubble checked plugs both r dark but.... left its wetter than right i think.....i forgot to mention TORS is off and i had it stick WOT like once or twice and also i was trying to say its still seems to be runnig the same even thought i changed jets ???? it didnt seen to change it much and i went from a 230 to a 310 and a few in between

[AKheathen]

ok just doubble checked plugs both r dark but.... left its wetter than right i think.....i forgot to mention TORS is off and i had it stick WOT like once or twice and also i was trying to say its still seems to be runnig the same even thought i changed jets ???? it didnt seen to change it much and i went from a 230 to a 310 and a few in between

those jets are just for 3/4 to wot. check where your needles are at. middle knotch, sync carbs and set airscrews at 1 1/2 turns out it should be close to running good here. check for air leaks between the carbs and juggs by spraying aerosol wd-40. if the engine rpm's change, you found an air leak. search for the post on tors removal to make sure it,s done right. if it's not able to run with the carbs set like that, you probably need new pilot size. hesitation is too lean, and bogging is too rich. with the melted piston and high idle, it sounds mostly like air leak. are they br8's? you should really fix that sticky throttle

[killshee]

those jets are just for 3/4 to wot. check where your needles are at. middle knotch, sync carbs and set airscrews at 1 1/2 turns out it should be close to running good here. check for air leaks between the carbs and juggs by spraying aerosol wd-40. if the engine rpm's change, you found an air leak. search for the post on tors removal to make sure it,s done right. if it's not able to run with the carbs set like that, you probably need new pilot size. hesitation is too lean, and bogging is too rich. with the melted piston and high idle, it sounds mostly like air leak. are they br8's? you should really fix that sticky throttle

 

 

i dont think its the throttle that sticks bc i had to down shift and bogg it out to get it to idle back down, carbs r synced, needles r at middle knotch, and airsrews r at 1 1/2 .... how does the wd-40 thing work? sry im a lil new lol i kno 2storke but not banshee to well... plugs r br9eya.... hesitation??? u have to blurpp it a lil to get it to wheelie if thas normal... im gunna check TORS post after this it was already done so maybe its rong....???? what size piolt would u recomend if u have any idea

Edited November 10, 2008 by killshee

[AKheathen]

i dont think its the throttle that sticks bc i had to down shift and bogg it out to get it to idle back down, carbs r synced, needles r at middle knotch, and airsrews r at 1 1/2 .... how does the wd-40 thing work? sry im a lil new lol i kno 2storke but not banshee to well... plugs r br9eya.... hesitation??? u have to blurpp it a lil to get it to wheelie if thas normal... im gunna check TORS post after this it was already done so maybe its rong....???? what size piolt would u recomend if u have any idea

what do you mean blurpp? hesatation is when there is a delat or dead spot when you stab the throttle. it should be crispand responsive. but first, the wd-40 trick is the same as using propane or starting fluid and spraying it on everything between the carb and engine. when the idle changes- oheywow you found an air leak. wd-40 is just safer, and i've heard of people pouring gas on it, but that's a little more messy. so the throttle lever returned, but the carb stayed wot? when i got mine, you could sit there and peg the throttle with the engine off, and would have to push the lever back to get it to pop back- just junk in the lever, but yours sounds like the slide or cable might be sticking. find out what pilot you have and how it runs from1/8 - 3/4 throttle to find what pilot size you need and put new plugs in

[killshee]

what do you mean blurpp? hesatation is when there is a delat or dead spot when you stab the throttle. it should be crispand responsive. but first, the wd-40 trick is the same as using propane or starting fluid and spraying it on everything between the carb and engine. when the idle changes- oheywow you found an air leak. wd-40 is just safer, and i've heard of people pouring gas on it, but that's a little more messy. so the throttle lever returned, but the carb stayed wot? when i got mine, you could sit there and peg the throttle with the engine off, and would have to push the lever back to get it to pop back- just junk in the lever, but yours sounds like the slide or cable might be sticking. find out what pilot you have and how it runs from1/8 - 3/4 throttle to find what pilot size you need and put new plugs in

 

i have stock pilot jets 25's if i remeber... if u stab the throttle its responsive but the left side is smooth and the right side pops once kinda like a large air pocket then opens right up.... also (blurrping) u cant ease the throttle in u have to pump it to get the right side to open up, if u ease it the right ride doesnt open up till about 1/2 throttle.....the WOT is more like it takes a long time to idle back down also happens more offten when u try to ease the throttle some times i have to choke it out to get it to idle back down.....and also thanx 4 all this help bc i been tryin to figure this out for about 2 weeks now....

[killshee]

i am going to try larger pilots and new needles. also going to check for airleeks although im 95% sure there is none but maybe i just cant see it ....i will try wd-40 next week im going to order new wiring and a timing plate... will be back and let u kno if i helped or not....

[AKheathen]

i have stock pilot jets 25's if i remeber... if u stab the throttle its responsive but the left side is smooth and the right side pops once kinda like a large air pocket then opens right up.... also (blurrping) u cant ease the throttle in u have to pump it to get the right side to open up, if u ease it the right ride doesnt open up till about 1/2 throttle.....the WOT is more like it takes a long time to idle back down also happens more offten when u try to ease the throttle some times i have to choke it out to get it to idle back down.....and also thanx 4 all this help bc i been tryin to figure this out for about 2 weeks now....

when you say opens up, you mean clears up? or are you watching the slides? i'm begining to think that you were heading the right direction with new carbs. i prefer mikuni's with the cable choke myself, but dont go too big. sounds like the slide, and other things are worn out, but i would be 105% on any air leaks fo sho. probably beter off with a stock stator than a new timing plate. stock stators perform well, and are alot more reliable than aftermarket, especially if you don't know what kind it is. get it to run good first, then upgrade. btw. did you put new plugs in? try br8's? trim 1/4" wire back and screw the caps back on. i'd hate to see you spend a lot of money before you know what the bike likes/wants to run better. once you start changing things, it's harder to find the "sweet spot" oh yah, check your clearance on the pickup.

[killshee]

when you say opens up, you mean clears up? or are you watching the slides? i'm begining to think that you were heading the right direction with new carbs. i prefer mikuni's with the cable choke myself, but dont go too big. sounds like the slide, and other things are worn out, but i would be 105% on any air leaks fo sho. probably beter off with a stock stator than a new timing plate. stock stators perform well, and are alot more reliable than aftermarket, especially if you don't know what kind it is. get it to run good first, then upgrade. btw. did you put new plugs in? try br8's? trim 1/4" wire back and screw the caps back on. i'd hate to see you spend a lot of money before you know what the bike likes/wants to run better. once you start changing things, it's harder to find the "sweet spot" oh yah, check your clearance on the pickup.

 

yeah i ment smooths out or clears up after it pops but once u let it idle back down it pops again at about 1/2throttle then clears up again. no i havent watched the slides with the motor runnig bc i would have to take my airbox and filter off.... is that ok to do? also i will try diff plugs.... i was gunna get 35mm pwk's??? i just got this bike a month ago and i put $300 into the motor already and i plan on getting new carbs anyways but im just runnig out of money. how well does the 2 into one setup work i ride trail/mx with a few hill climbs here and there will i loose or gaine anything from it? do u kno about how much a oem stator will run... also i have a boost bottle is it worth elimanteing? everyone says they dont do anything.... i checked my pickup with gauge its right on....i have very good spark but i will try trimming the wires...

Thanxs!!

[AKheathen]

yeah i ment smooths out or clears up after it pops but once u let it idle back down it pops again at about 1/2throttle then clears up again. no i havent watched the slides with the motor runnig bc i would have to take my airbox and filter off.... is that ok to do? also i will try diff plugs.... i was gunna get 35mm pwk's??? i just got this bike a month ago and i put $300 into the motor already and i plan on getting new carbs anyways but im just runnig out of money. how well does the 2 into one setup work i ride trail/mx with a few hill climbs here and there will i loose or gaine anything from it? do u kno about how much a oem stator will run... also i have a boost bottle is it worth elimanteing? everyone says they dont do anything.... i checked my pickup with gauge its right on....i have very good spark but i will try trimming the wires...

Thanxs!!

i didn't mean with the engine running. when you take your airbox off, the carbs pull less fuel, so when you run pods, you usually have to jet up. ,but it won't hurt anything if you're not ridding. with your kind of ridding, you want to focus more on mid to low end power. most of the people here run mods for more top end to ride drag, sand, and similar. 35's are a bit big and won't run as smooth on the low end, but give you great air flow on the top end. the 2 into one setup would work awesome for what you want to do, but don't opt for the larger sizes. smaller carb size gives you better mixture at lower cfm's and smoother throttle, with less likelyhood of plug fouling. the boost bottle is designed to smooth out the low, low end, and has to be calculated. since you went up in displacement, it's probably too small, so you should replace it with a x-over tube. this will work on the mid-rpm range, and you can make one out of i think, 1/2" copper pipe and elbows if you know how to sweat pipe. plastic pipe is too restrictive with it's thick walls. stock x-over pipes are harder to come by, because everyone junks them when they get a boost bottle, and searches them out when they take the bottle off. i'm pretty sure you'll find a stock stator if you peruse the swap and shop postings, usually with several other items, so don't just read the titles, do a search. guys parting out several bikes at once prolly have it, but someone else has it cheaper. -just reading back- you say you have "fmf headers and 50 cal pipes" just to make sure, that would be a pair of expansion chambers, and silencers, aka "pipes and cans" right? because the do make headders and tuned pipes for drag and only really work on the top end @ wot, and run like crap elswhere. fmf gold seies (the black fmf's) would be good, and fmf fatties (the big fat chrome ones) would be ok, but harder to tune on the low end. i know it sound's like a stupid question, but i'd feel even stupider if you were trying to tune a bike for mx that someone tried to tune for drag :shoothead: -just had to ask- :shrug: when i first got my shee, i didn't know if it had a thermostat or not, cus i've more experience with sleds, and the shee is it's own beast alltogether. i ride the same as you though, and i'm running stock pipes with toomy silencers and stock carbs/timing. it runns and handles great, but i'm gonna tune up a boost bottle for more controll when i'm climing in tight spots.(got loose and slammed my dg grab into a tree :sweat: lucky shot) what ever you do, make sure you fix the problem that melted the piston in the first place.

[killshee]

i didn't mean with the engine running. when you take your airbox off, the carbs pull less fuel, so when you run pods, you usually have to jet up. ,but it won't hurt anything if you're not ridding. with your kind of ridding, you want to focus more on mid to low end power. most of the people here run mods for more top end to ride drag, sand, and similar. 35's are a bit big and won't run as smooth on the low end, but give you great air flow on the top end. the 2 into one setup would work awesome for what you want to do, but don't opt for the larger sizes. smaller carb size gives you better mixture at lower cfm's and smoother throttle, with less likelyhood of plug fouling. the boost bottle is designed to smooth out the low, low end, and has to be calculated. since you went up in displacement, it's probably too small, so you should replace it with a x-over tube. this will work on the mid-rpm range, and you can make one out of i think, 1/2" copper pipe and elbows if you know how to sweat pipe. plastic pipe is too restrictive with it's thick walls. stock x-over pipes are harder to come by, because everyone junks them when they get a boost bottle, and searches them out when they take the bottle off. i'm pretty sure you'll find a stock stator if you peruse the swap and shop postings, usually with several other items, so don't just read the titles, do a search. guys parting out several bikes at once prolly have it, but someone else has it cheaper. -just reading back- you say you have "fmf headers and 50 cal pipes" just to make sure, that would be a pair of expansion chambers, and silencers, aka "pipes and cans" right? because the do make headders and tuned pipes for drag and only really work on the top end @ wot, and run like crap elswhere. fmf gold seies (the black fmf's) would be good, and fmf fatties (the big fat chrome ones) would be ok, but harder to tune on the low end. i know it sound's like a stupid question, but i'd feel even stupider if you were trying to tune a bike for mx that someone tried to tune for drag :shoothead: -just had to ask- :shrug: when i first got my shee, i didn't know if it had a thermostat or not, cus i've more experience with sleds, and the shee is it's own beast alltogether. i ride the same as you though, and i'm running stock pipes with toomy silencers and stock carbs/timing. it runns and handles great, but i'm gonna tune up a boost bottle for more controll when i'm climing in tight spots.(got loose and slammed my dg grab into a tree :sweat: lucky shot) what ever you do, make sure you fix the problem that melted the piston in the first place.

 

 

so what size carbs should i go with i am also planing on going with v-force 3 reeds, coolhead, a +4 stroker and mx/trial port and +4 timing... if this means anything .... what is better the X-over or boost ...also i have gold series chrome headers and fmf 50cal silencers, but want to change to T5's... i have only had the bike for a month and have not had the money for the mods being i had to buy the bike and also put a new topend in it when i got it.... as for the piston melting i havent been riding it, i ride it on and off trying to figure what the problem is but thats about it....the plug looks good so i dont think its lean...it is dark brown almost to dark and only seems to run bad in lowend...

Edited November 12, 2008 by killshee

[dirtfreak]

you need to figure out what kind of riding you are mostly going to be doing and you will get better suggestions for mods.if your going to get new pipes and going from fmf i would get shearer or cpi in frames.your not going to gain much with the t5s. the t5s are just a little bit better than the fmf pipes.the 35pkw's will work great for you but the jetting will be alot different than what you have now cause of the bigger carb size.about your popping and revving up prob.i think you have an air leak,also your carbs could be trashed,slides may be dragging in the carbs.i agree that the wd40 trick is a good way to find air leaks,its one of the methods i use.you may want to find the problem you have pretty quick cause every time the engine is doing what its not supposed to be doing is causing it harm.oh you asked about pilots with the jets your running i would thing 27.5's or 30's im running 310 mains and 30 pilots on stock carbs with pod filters.good luck with it,keep your progress posted.