DunePirate Posted November 3, 2008 Author Report Posted November 3, 2008 you guys are a big help... this is all very good input. I will be splitting the case tomorrow I'm replacing the crank seals, and cleaning everything thoroughly, after I get it back together I'm going to hose everything down with starter fluid to find the leak. I will replace anything that needs it. What I need now is a play by play of what needs to be done in order. I have the factory repair manual but I like taking advise from people that have done it and have the first hand experience. Any little tricks that will make this process easier ? What HAS TO BE removed for the cases to be split ? Again, thank you guys.. Quote
BellicoseBanshee Posted November 4, 2008 Report Posted November 4, 2008 after I get it back together I'm going to hose everything down with starter fluid to find the leak. You could do a leak-down test after the engine is assembled. Leak-down test link Quote
deckheight Posted November 4, 2008 Report Posted November 4, 2008 As far as splitting the cases... Pretty much everything comes off! It would take a book to explain the procedure...LOL! If your rings are still intact I would seriously consider going to plan "B" and not splitting them. IMHO anyway. Quote
dajogejr Posted November 4, 2008 Report Posted November 4, 2008 Take a look at the little end of the connecting rod and bearing. If it has discoloration, or you find fragments in the needle bearing (piston pin or wrist pin bearing), split 'em.... Quote
DunePirate Posted November 4, 2008 Author Report Posted November 4, 2008 the wrist pin is clean as are the bearings, and the rings were intact... Their was some piston melted to the top of the rod but only a very small piece, no other discoloration so to speak of... Everyone has said that it is the rings, bearings, and the other "hard metals" like steel that will kill the bottom end not piston shavings. The exhaust had a few piston flakes in it, and the reed cage was covered but aside from that, only really small flakes sitting on the part of the crank that rolls... Should I do the gas thing ? should I not split the case at all ? Quote
dajogejr Posted November 4, 2008 Report Posted November 4, 2008 Take the engine out of the bike, pour some 16:1 or 20:1 premix and gas in each side...roll the crank over a few times, dump it out. repeat until you see NO grayish or metal shavings. Quote
DunePirate Posted November 5, 2008 Author Report Posted November 5, 2008 So in your honest and professional oppinion, you do not think it needs to be split ? Why with the premix ? The trans is completely sealed on this motor isn't it ? The oil is seperate from the crank, so I do not have to worry about contaminateing the trans with the shavings.. Right ? Quote
dajogejr Posted November 5, 2008 Report Posted November 5, 2008 Professional? Ha ha...that's a good one... because...your crank bearings, pistons, etc. get ALL of their lubrication from the oil you mix with your gas. Not going to hurt a thing with a little more oil on the bearings to help clean the metal out... Quote
DunePirate Posted November 5, 2008 Author Report Posted November 5, 2008 I have been talking with ClimbAnyHill all day, he suggested this alternative.. Use: Shop Vac Small plastic Coke bottle small hose like the overflow ones on the carb. Carb Cleaner. Cut the backend of the bottle and tape it to the shop vac. Cut a hole in the bottle cap and instert the small hose.. Wash down & flood the crank/crank case area with that carb cleaner.. The debris will fall to the bottom.. Keep that small hose in there like the dentist to suck all that junk out. I've gone thru 2 cans of cleaner doing this and has worked great without any prob.. Quote
dajogejr Posted November 5, 2008 Report Posted November 5, 2008 To be honest....by now, you could've had the motor torn apart, flushed out, put back together and running.... Quote
DunePirate Posted November 5, 2008 Author Report Posted November 5, 2008 I know..... I was thinking that, but I don't want to split the case if I don't have to... It's not the work, it's the "I can EFF something up" factor that has stopped me so far. I would hate to kill something internally just because I have doubt. I rebuilt my first top end at age 11, it was so simple.. I have done clutches, again no problem.. but Im worried about all the kick gears, the shift star, small little pieces that the manual says need to be removed when splitting the case. It doesn't make a great deal of sence to remove all of that when you are not taking everything out of the case (going to leave the trans in) I have been looking for someone to tell me what actually has to be removed. I'm scared... :ermm: Quote
DunePirate Posted November 5, 2008 Author Report Posted November 5, 2008 Allright... going to get a flywheel puller, be back shortly. Hope you guys have some more insight into this subject... Quote
DunePirate Posted November 5, 2008 Author Report Posted November 5, 2008 damn it.... I can't get the darn puller until tomorrow. I think in the mean time Im going to rinse it with gas, then carb cleaner then gas again... If it is smoothe, I might just put it back together.. Quote
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