Eric Krupp Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Current Set Up Low Beams/ Trail Tech 35 watt bulbs High Beams/ RS Duner 100 watt Bulbs Max Low Beam Wattage-70 watts Max High Beam Wattage-200 watts Proposed Set Up Low Beams/ Trail Tech 35 watt bulbs High Beams/ RS Duner 55 watt Bulbs and Trail Tech 35 watt bulbs Max Low Beam Wattage-70 watts Max High Beam Wattage-180 watts My question is can I wire my factory switch to run the only the TT's on Low Beam and the TT's and the RS Duner's on High Beam? I would actually be running less total wattage on High than I am currently running with the 100 watt Duner bulbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 You would need to splice into your auxiliary power so you can get juice to both sets of lights independently, I am no electrican so I can't say if it would cause issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Thats too much wattage to run through the stock switch. If you were converted to dc, you could run relays and do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Thats too much wattage to run through the stock switch. If you were converted to dc, you could run relays and do it. Why would it be took much to run through the switch if they were not running together? Would it make any differance that he wants one set on the high beam circut and one on low? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Krupp Posted October 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 Thats too much wattage to run through the stock switch. If you were converted to dc, you could run relays and do it. I have been running the current configuration for about 8-9 years with no problems and my current set up is pulling 100 watts per bulb on high. By dropping the Duners down to 55 watts each and hooking up TT's I would only be pulling 180 watts total instead of 200. I am actually dropping the wattage on high but using all 4 lights. That's my theory anyway??? I have had no problems with the factory switch I am just not sure how to make the TT's work on both low and high beam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinisterboo Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 Hey snop, didnt you have a recipe for a DC conversion? I am looking for it, to no avail..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE GRIM RIPPER Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 The stator puts out AC??????? Whats this about? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 I mis-understood it. I though you wanted all the lights on with the high beam. It ought to work ok the way you want to do it. Do a search for the dc conversion, theres a hole thread on here about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Krupp Posted October 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 I mis-understood it. I though you wanted all the lights on with the high beam. It ought to work ok the way you want to do it. Do a search for the dc conversion, theres a hole thread on here about it. You are correct, I do want to run all 4 on high beam but I am actually cutting the wattage from from 200 down to 180 by changing the duner bulbs from 100 watts each down to 55 watts each. Current High Beam 100watts X 2 Total 200 watts Proposed High Beam 55 X 2 110 watts 35 X 2 70 watts Total 180 watts Am I missing something? What about splitting the tail light circuit? It is constant. I will check into the DC conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulvafan537240 Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 if you dont want to add another switch youll need to hook the TTs up directly to a "hot" wire (bypass the low beam switch). then wire the RSs with the high beam switch. the low beams will be on all the time but there is no other way to keep power to the low and high beams at the same time. you could always add a switch for the low beams though. this would probably be best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 The stock 16 ga wiring that goes in and out of the switch is not really rated to handle much more than 150 watts. It may work, but by law its a no no. It may work out ok though, cause now your pushing even less amperage through it with bringing your bulb wattage down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Krupp Posted October 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 The stock 16 ga wiring that goes in and out of the switch is not really rated to handle much more than 150 watts. It may work, but by law its a no no. It may work out ok though, cause now your pushing even less amperage through it with bringing your bulb wattage down. I read some of your other posts concerning electrical and DC conversions and I knew you were going to hit me with that one. I may leave it as is. I think I may be opening a can of worms and everything is fine as is. I was thinking I could use the tail light circuit because it is on for high and low beams. Thanks, Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 how much juice is the stock voltage reg able to withstand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 Stock regulator can handle 100-140 watts without much issue. But if you put an RS stator on, you need to upgrade the regulator. If your bike is going to be drawing less amperage now, then it was before, I would do the change. The tail light circuit still runs through the headlight switch. You need to be worried about the feed wire and the contacts in the switch, not necessarily the disbursement of the power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Krupp Posted October 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 Stock regulator can handle 100-140 watts without much issue. But if you put an RS stator on, you need to upgrade the regulator. If your bike is going to be drawing less amperage now, then it was before, I would do the change. The tail light circuit still runs through the headlight switch. You need to be worried about the feed wire and the contacts in the switch, not necessarily the disbursement of the power. I will definitely be pulling less amps. I already have the RS stator and regulator as well. I am going to run into an issue if I split the tailight lead and run three lights instead of one? Not sure if I am going to see a resistance issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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