jrfastbanshee

It looks like he is just talking about the basket itself... Once you unbolt everything and take the basket out. The stock basket it not serviceable (unless you fab it back together).

I was told to always run same mix ratio as you normally would! Running extra oil will cause a lean condition cuz it lowers the fuel/air mix. If you want to make richer you should go up a jet or two. Everyone you talk to will tell you something different though. I just do a couple heat cycles then be nice for the first few tanks.

Basket was very grooved...17 years old. I already filed the grooves twice and am lucky I didn't break one or the fingers. I believe the basket was keeping it from shifting and the star was causing it to miss a shift? Either way I hope both issues are gone or at least a lot better.

I believe you grind the rivets and press the back plate/gear off. Then the new basket will use screws instead of rivets to hold the gear with a new backplate and cushions. I will be doing this soon as well...so anyone correct me if I am wrong.

Great...thanks! I will spend the extra money. Stock one lasted 17 years but has always shifted like poo. My engine finally ate the rubber cushions so it's time to go!

I was thinking of getting the barnett basket since is has stanless steel inserts over the fingers. Or I was thinking of the PE one since it's cheaper. I really would like to have the barnett since I have seen even Hinson get notched. (not nearly as bad as stock though)

Ahhh...that makes sense. I was going to mill all tips down but I guess I will save some time and bit life and leave that one in tact. Can't wait to try it out. That and a new clutch basket it should shift like a honda??? (I can always hope)

Isn't the hump between 1st and 2nd the one with the neutral notch? Maybe the unground one is 5-6th. I don't think I have ever missed that shift.

cgamla, that's when it makes the noise...just off full throttle and coasting. Guess that's all I needed to hear...new top end it is! It is just hard to do when it runs sooooo good after a year of replacing other crap. There is no smoke or coolant issues (anymore) I honed an re-reinged last time cuz coolant got in and scorched the cylinder walls. I guess it took a little too much clean up for the new rings. Oh well...it's just money right? Anyone know what wiseco recommends for tolerance. Last two shops went .0025" and both ended up in cold seizures. I did the break in to a T both times...I think it was just too tight for the forged pistons. Thanks all!

Ok...the last few trips out I noticed my left cylinder has a little piston slap. I re-ringed about 6 months ago and have about 140psi in each cylinder still. When I rev high and cut the throttle I can hear the piston "slapping" for a second or so. I know it's not good but I want to know if I can get a few more trips out of it? I just don't want to rebuild it till I get my coolhead...not sure why...just don't. Has anyone ever broken a piston skirt? And is that from piston slap or something other? The bike runs perfect but I should know better. So once again here is the stupid question. Can I get a few more rides out of her without breaking the piston skirt? Thanks... JR

I would try pull/push starting it as well. Did you wash it recently? I used to get water in the cdi and it would cause a weak spark for a few hours. Wouldn't start unless I pushed it...no matter how hard I could kick. Finally the cdi stayed this way with a weak spark and then I replaced it. There are ways to test the spark that I can't recall. It should be bright blue and spark with ease (turning over kicker by hand with plugs out). It might also be all kinds of flooded like mentioned before. Either way you should get a compression tester to keep an eye on your top end. Hope this helps.

I would think it is either low compression or weak spark. As a reference my wifes shee has 105psi in each cylinder. This is low but the bike starts right up everytime...you can even start with your hand! Now mine has 145psi each cylinder and wouldn't start at all without a pull a while back. The problem on mine was a weak spark. New cdi and it fires right up! My guess is it's electrical since it worked fine for six weeks? Having two bikes it should be easy to swap components. Hope this helps. Jason

The yellow wire is from the lighting coils. The green and red are the ignition coils as stated above. The bike will most likely spark/run with those readings (which are from the pick-up coil BTW). It depends on the meter you use but I don't think I have ever had a reading actually within the limits Anyway, if you have some resistance you know the coils are not open. The next thing you need to check is if they are grounded to the frame (same as off switch). I think that is by far the most common death of stators. I have been through three stock ones myself that shorted to the posts the wire is wrapped around. Bottom line...if the red or green wires are open or grounded the stator is toast. Hope this helps!

I have a family to support too and I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars for work just to spend hundreds more to get it fixed! If he is well know than he should stand behind his work right? Either you loose hundreds for picking the wrong guy or he looses for not doing it right. I would expect it done right or have it fixed at no charge...but I realize that is just a dream with most builders. You don't need to bad mouth...just advise us of your experience. Just my opinion...

nater006...I dug this one back up since I have the same exact noise but in 4th gear only! Any luck on what it is? I had no metal in oil either...nothing! I was thinking it might be a bent shift fork catchin on something? Or maybe we both broke a tooth and it fell strait down...didn't get ground up or fall out oil drain? I will have to dig some pics up of the inside and investigate before I tear it down. I am tired of working on this thing. Anyone else have any ideas? It only sounds like a tooth is missing...but the bike doesn't jerk or slip. Either way...not going to ride it this way! Thanks, JR

Which wire is supposed to be forward anyway? I believe I have the orange wire in front on both my bikes. Are you sure it can damage the cdi? I can't see how and it seems that yamaha would have used measures to prevent that if it could hurt the cdi.

Motul...I was talking about the clutch BASKET being non-servicable. How do I get to the cushions? I took it apart as far as I could...without a press. I know my cushions are worn.

I know the clutch basket cushions were mentioned...but did you check them? I believe you have to pull the basket apart and I was told it's non-servicable? I had the same problem and never found out what it was! Plus my bike shifts really hard now...so maybe that was it? Maybe it's time for a Hinson!

You should be able to wire it color to color. The extra wire is green/yellow stripe. That wire is for the park brake rev limiter...why the hell yamaha thought we needed that I have no idea! This SHOULD work fine...however...I bought a 2000 cdi for my '87 shee. Works perfect on my '97 but when I rewire it to my '87 (leaving g/y wire dangling) it work spark at all! If I leave the g/y wire dangling on the '97 it still works perfect. The wiring diagram shows the rev limiting when that circuit is grounded only. If anyone has rewired 5 plug to 4 plug or the other way please let me know if there is any tricks! Could yamaha changed the wiring somewhere and this won't work? All the diagrams I saw show the same scheme minus the g/y wire from '97 up? Please help!

I had the same problem! It is your CDI. Sounds wierd but mine crapped out and the switch stopped working and has a very weak spark when kicking. You can roll start it fine and it runs like a champ still but is hard to start. Try a friends CDI to verify.

You can rewind them youself. Any electronics shop has magnet wire...it's just time consuming. Just use some high temp epoxy on the outside to keep the wires from coming loose.

Check the wire to see if it is broken anywhere. If so it can either be soldered back together or you will have to replace. Also...the thin wire wrapped on six of the posts is your ignition side. The heavy gauge wire around the other six posts is for your lights. Hope this helps.

Ok...this is confusing to me. I rewired a 2000 cdi for my '87 shee so the plugs mate. In the mid '90s there was a green/yellow wire added to limit the rpms when the park brake is set. Obviously I left this wire dangling and wired the other 8 color to color. Plugged it in and no spark! Then I wired it up to my '97 and perfect spark! Is there any way yahama changed the color code? Am I missing something here? Has anyone tried this before? BTW...I plugged in my buddies '87 cdi to verify my shee was ready and perfect spark! Thanks, JR

I have always had this same problem after washing mine too....the cdi would get wet and short inside. It would be fine once dry but now it is fried all the time now. I have a spark but it is weak. The bike fires up and idles ok but won't rev out. I brought in the spark plug gap and it helped. Also the key does not shut the bike off anymore. You might try the key...if it doesn't shut the bike off I can almost guarantee your cdi is shorted like mine (looking at the wirind diagram). Hope this helps...best thing to do is swap cdi's and you will know instantly! Also check orange/black wires going into the coil...but sounds like a shorting issue.

Anybody have info on the GTY-R ignition? How about the Dyna FS. I do know the Dyna has 4 timing curves to choose from. I think the GTY-R just gives you a better spark. Anything has to be an improvement over the stock box.