BamaBanshee

are the spindle studs that quicksand uses better then the heim joints of say ricky stator, i konw quicksands take on it, but they are a little biased, ( there not gonna say thier joints aren't better).

anybody know anything about ricky stator's a-arms???

all right guys, i still ride the ol shee from time to time, but i've been out of the loop on here with parts and people and all that i dont know whats up in the shee world today, well today while riding my left bottom ball joint came apart, i've been wanting to upgrade the stock a-arms since i got it and this now gives me justification. so to my question, what are some decent quality decent price a-arms on the market, i will not pay the outrageous prices of lonestar and such like that, but i dont want some shitty ebay a-arms that some guy builds in his basement, out of left stuff. i'm not a stickler for going and finding the cheapest thing, but i'm not going to go and get the highest price top of the line either, so what are a good middle of the road set of a-arms and i'll probilby stick with the stock width cause most of the trails i ride are narrow in spots and i'm not sure if the longer arms wouldnt be more of a con than a pro?? and i'd rather not have to have my spindles reamed unless that really is better to have done??

my all time favorite is probibly "marinated"

big blue i think that is the best avatar i've EVER SEEN

dude it does not work like that, with the 28's you have 28mm worth for each cyl. and that is it, the CV "constant velocity" gives your either 33 or 35 for EACH cyl. mathmatically you are correct but your analogy does not work for this situation. i AM NOT bashing you or your what you said, i'm simply trying to make a point so people are not mis-lead, if what i have said does not make since please tell me and i will TRY to elaborate more and for what it is worth i have the single 35mm and i would never go back to the stock setup, if i get a drag port i will buy another one and run dual 35s but i WOULD NOT go back to the stock dual 28 mikuni's i have 2 28mm keheins i've been dying to try but have not had the time. for my current application of cruising around the woods, and short and steep hill climbs i'd rather have the better bottom end of the CV system then the balls to the wall top speed which i would never get to due to the lack of complet strait and flat wide open space.

a little pricey but this is the route i am going to go in the next month when i remove and rewire mine. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/product.ASP?...gNo=1&redirect=

guy from around where i live bought a yfz450 for $1500, from some local scumbag for, the next week the the cops showed up to repo it, i dont think he got into any trouble, but hell, you hafta know that if somebody is selling a newly released top of the line quad that is in perfect condition that something is up, "IF ITS TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE....... WELL YOU KNOW" by the way the guy that sold it to him look a little like this

his daddy should have rolled over and shot him on the wall. and a few people were talking about morons from the past of the BHQ, how many of yall remember bluebreadtruck that is classic BHQ

hey chase, i plan on buying it but not till december or so, what game do you play online now, i play socom us navy seals, my name is mellonpopper, on there,

i think we should ad a-arms, and extended swingarms, honda style carriers. i think that these three items are something that we all eventually want, as with the cool head, air filter setups, aftermarket tires and wheels, and i would for sure go in on those 3 things, i already emailed janssen racing and they said if i ordered all three things from them at the same time they would knock off a few beans from the total price. i'm guessing they would be willing to knock off even more if 5-6 maybe 10 or so people asked for the same thing

I'm gonna go ahead and let you have my 2 cents. If it were mine, which i really really wish it were you lucky son of a gun I would use the banshee gears with the rz hard ware. From what i can tell you do alot of other riding besides just dunes. I agree with you 100% that the 2 sets of gears are aimed at different riding conditions; highway cruising and offroad use it was engineered that way, otherwise the gears would be the same in the 2 engines i would think, . i'm sure if you had all the time in the world it would be beneficial to be able to mix and match gears, go try them out and then change out gears. but changing gears as we all know involves a good deal of work if you want to keep tinkering with the internal gearing. if you dont ride any dunes what so ever and you are alway in the tight trails or restrictive wooded areas is to use the low rz 1st gear (dog gear or granny gear lol) that way if you get in a situation where you are having to go slow you can stay in the gas to keep from bogging down your motor and/or fouling plugs, with out going to fast and running over the person in front of you, me and a buddy own a rail buggy and a banshee 1/2 and 1/2 and when we ride in the woods he kinda has to take it slower so if i'm behind him i am slippin the clutch a lot and hav'n to stay out of the throttle, if i had a really low 1st gear i could cruise at a decent RPM and not have to worry about it, i know i could gear different but then i'd loose top end. if you had a low first gear then you could run the same size sprokets and not have to give up the top end. i guess i'm just rambling now, but that is my opinion. good luck with all the work, i only wish i could help you as much as you've help all of us on the BHQ.