Knocked some sense into him yet? Like selling a quad is going to fuck'n throw a quarter towards a new house... Sounds like a bitch is behind the scenes.
yeah...I'd go with black & orange myself out of what you mentioned. Plus, doesn't it seem right for your new shee to be another orange one?
Could go all yellow with the fenders, get you a black tank & rad cover...and leave the seat cover.
Sounds like you're a bit out of adjustment. Got a clymers? There's good info on adjusting the clutch in the manual. Primarily, you'll want the arrow on the lever that your cable hooks to aligned up with the mark on the case, with about between an 1/8-1/4 inch of play. You can adjust on the lever & also with the nut on & screw adjuster on the pressure plate. Hope this helps...
No complaints with the turbo's here. Economical price & excellent performance, wearing better than my previous skats; but I never had any complaints with my skats either other than the price.
Here's a couple posts on them you can check out...
http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37963
http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=39931
Their website: http://www.kingstire.com/KT-177.htm
Where I got mine, $160 mounted & ready to bolt on: http://www.jimssandtoys.com/
Interesting. I know of a guy who completely removed the reed blocks, installed boyseen reeds with spacers, his powerband comes on smooth, not like a lightswitch anymore. I've pondered doing this myself...Anyone else here run without the blocks?
Dunno man, if you run it & get the original owners contact info; give them a call & see what's up with it. If you can't locate the original ownder, couldn't you weld over & grind that shit down and get it re-registered as a custom built bike?
LMAO...you got me all wrong. I was saying that to him as it's a good thing he's on the look for another banshee...not that he offered 3900...
Free bump none-the-less.
I just layed out a line with some electrical tape, then took a fine-toothed blade on the jigsaw & followed the line I taped out. Take your time & you'll be fine.
I don't get any dirtier with the fenders cut than I did before.
Are the holes completely through the pipe or is the coating just pitted? If they're not blowing shit through I'd say they're just pitted in the coating & would maybe suggested contacting who coated it to see if they'll fix it.
You're talking at least $2300 for the chassis, for a complete rolling chassis w/250R geometry & suspension setup, around $5500. Would be nice...but damn, that's a lotta bones. Check out http://www.lsracing.com
Do a Google Image search or even a forum search on here & look for the brand of arms you got...then compare them. Theoretically they should only fit one way. Got pics?
Well I use both. I use rollers where there needs to be rollers, but on the swingarm I use a slider instead of that stock shit wheel that wears faster than an lubeless condom in a dry-rot pussy...
T.M. Designworks - lifetime warranty & works great.
As long as you didn't bugger them up when splitting the cases again you should be alright. But...if you're really not sure it's best to be safe than sorry. Just MHO.
I love the chit out of mine, they compliment my style of riding well. Depends on what you're looking for in them; if you're looking for drag pipes you probably won't be too happy with them. If you're wanting a good all-around pipe they're great. Heard great things about FMF Fatties too... Toomeys are great dune pipes if you like to be balls to the wall the whole time, no complaints with them either in that aspect; but for my personal preference I like the performance of the PC's better.