raptorooster

BUMP SOME MORE! Getting cheaper!!!

BUMP!?!?! Im open to reasonable offers!

Im interested in the gas pair, you would not happen to have the intake boots and a cable would you?

Hey Guys, i have my banshee for sale, all my friends sold their quads so i dont ride it anymore, My mods are in my signiture, Im open to offers but was tthinking like 4K? brand new engine and Lots of new parts, lots of mods, just needs to be tuned and jetted, havent done it woth new engine yet. Call with questions, Thanks for the space, Ryan Pictures available to youe e-mail, It said the files were too big to upload

BUMP!!!! Im open to reasonable offers!

Hey guys, Im selling my banshee, Everybody I ride with sold there quads so I really dont use it, see my signiture for bike specifics, its a really nice bike, The engine is brand new with literally only a half gallon of fuel used, The only thing it needs is jetting work, I have not jetted it since the build, just threw some jets in for startup, it feels really rich, P.M. me with questions or call me at 651-707-6419, Thanks for the space! Ryan The bike is In St. Paul Minnesota, Im willing to drive about 75 miles for delivery or to meet somewhere

I have some pictures on photobucket but cant figure out how to post them on here!

Hey guys, I have decided to sell my Banshee, I have a child coming and my county just outlawed ATV's!! It is as follows, only one half of a gallon ran since complete rebuild and new crank! -Hotrods 5mil longrod 4mil stroker crank -trail/play port and cases port matched to the cylinders -64.5mil 795 series Pro-lites -Pro-design cool head with .110 cut 20cc domes -RS 200 watt stator advanced 5 degrees with HP flywheel -Trinity 2 into 1 with Keihin 35pwk and K&N and outerware -Toomey radiator with billet pump impeller -Autometer water temp gauge -Dyna FS on curve 3 -F.A.S.T. Hd clutch and springs -+4 roundhouse swinger with billet dual row and DID X ring chain -new sprockets front and rear with case saver and upp chain slider -Alba procomp +2+1 control arms with works dual rates -EGT specialties avenger 3 EGT with fast reacting probes -FMF SST's with shorty silencers -Prodesign teather wired with factory kill switch still working -all unnessasary wiring stripped from harness -185 psi compression so this is a race fuel engine (could be changed to pump with new domes for $80) So the deal is, it is running a bit lean and from what I can find im at the biggest main jet available fron Keihin, So this will likely require going to a set of 33mil or 35mil carbs, this will cost about 500 bucks and is a piece of cake to do, otherwise short of needing new rear tires and some slow leaks in the front tires is pretty much set to rip. Pm me if you have any questions or call at 952-454-2691, im in Minnesota around St. Paul. Im fairly firm at 5 grand.

Yup. they are the factory rubber O-rings, thats where I figured the problem was!! thanks for the help, im going to take them out and try it out!

Hey guys, Im having problems with my clutch, its from FAST, its his hd clutch with hd springs, its installed and according to Jeff is adjusted properly, What its doing is not disengaging all the way, basically when you roll to a stop with the clutch in the rpm sags some and you cant get it in neutral, seems to disengage about mid lever but then seems not to grip well, there is some noticable clutch slip with the lever all the way out. the lever freeplay is about .040-.060 and I have the arrow on the clutch arm aproximately 1/8 towords the mag side past the arrow on the top case. Jeff says thats where he would put it, i removed the cover and adjusted it to line up exactly arrow to arrow and it operates the same, any ideas? the factory rubber o-rings are in place, should they have been removed? I have tried to give a thorough explanation of what it does, any help would be great!!! Ryan

Well, its 55 degrees here today, im in minnesota and im at a 220 main and the plugs still look lean? plug chop dont lie so I guess im going richer 230 or so!! This bitch is way fast!!!

Hey guys, got my new stator today so I put it in and fired it up, did the warm up and check over and took it out for the first ride, and wow, thats all I can say, definately faster than I expected and definately has excelent low end torque, it grunts right up onto the pipes in any gear and you can lug it in a gear and it comes right onto the pipes!! Awesome! 379 longrod setup as follows: -H129 5mil longrod 4mil stroker crank trued and welded by F.A.S.T. -795 series prolites 64.5 mm bore -.110 cut 20cc domes with cool head -trail/play port by On-Point -V-force 3's -Trinity 2into1 with Keihin 35PWK and K&N clamp on -RS 200 watt stator set at +5 degrees -FMF SST's -HD clutch and springs by F.A.S.T. -+4 roundhouse swinger -DYNA FS on curve 3 -185 PSI compression .043 squish -110 leaded 32:1 with 2R :biggrin:

Hey there, Didnt get it started up yet, Got a defective stator from RS so im just waiting for the new one to show up, then itll run!! Im getting excited!!

That does soung low to me, I'm in minnesota, My last setup ran 18cc domes and sst pipes and a slightly raised exhaust port and my compression was at about 165 last time I checked it, unless your port was raised that radically in witch case im thinking that you will find yourself unhappy with the performance, all power up top and hard to keep in the pipes unless you ride wide open gravel roads or dunes! My new setup in my sig runs 20cc domes and my compression is 185. Just my 2 cents.

Its actually not an upper plate, its an extra thick head gasket for use with the stock head, I think the proper route to go would be a noss head or similar with .110 cut domes and 795 series pistons with stock base gaskets and the matching port work, should be strong and reliable!

Thanks Duner, Nothing but good things to say about you and Jeff, I git a defective stator, new one should be here tomorow morning and I can finally hear this thing run!!!

Hey guys, I took this apart in december, the problem im having is I cant remember where the hoses fron the back of the top case and the waterpump housing go, if I remember correctly I belive that they tee together and head up twords the bars where they just vent to the atmosphere? Just looking to have some reassurance that this is correct, also, the hose form the bottom of the resivore goes to the radiator overflow fitting and the top hose also vents the same? Sorry for the dumb questions. Its been apart for a while and the Clymer manual doesent show these hoses!! Ryan

Well here are some pictures of my Shee! Its not lookin too bad so far, got a defective stator, so hopefully it will run tomorrow! -Hotrods 5mil longrod 4mil stroker crank trued and welded by F.A.S.T. -64.5mm 795 series Pro-lites -Trail play port -.110 cut 20cc domes with cool-head -Trinity 35 CV intake with Keihin PWK and K&N pod filter -200 watt stator set at +4 with lightened flywheel -FMF SST's with polished shorty's -Dyna FS on curve 3 -15-41 gears with DID X-ring chain -+4 roundhouse swinger -Leaded 110 with 2R 32:1 -F.A.S.T clutch with heavy springs -Toomey Radiator -V force 3's Hopefully this thing rips!!

Thanks alot for that info, should run this afternoon!!

Hey guys, hoping to get my new engine fired up this weekend, looking for a jetting baseline so I have an idea where to start, my setup is as follows: -Hotrods 5mil longrod 4mil stroker welded and trued by F.A.S.T. -64.50 bore with 795 series Pro-Lites -trail/play port -.110 cut domes 20cc -Dyna fs curve 3 -timing plate at +4 -Trinity 35cv 2into1 Keihin PWK with K&N pod filter and Outerwear -FMF SST's -V-force 3's This bike is a 110 leaded machine, I mix 32:1 with 2R, Im in Minnesota so im not sure of my elevation? How do I find that out? Any help would be nice! Ryan

Im not using a cub, I was looking at boring and sleeving the stock cylinders, I have just changed my mind after speaking with Jeff from F.A.S.T. apparently with that setup there is not alot of transfer port space and wont run as well as im hoping for, So at this point im rather torn on what to do?

Hey guys, sorry to be a pest about this, Im in the middle of putting together a 5 mil longrod 4 mil stroker with a 64.5 bore and have been having other thoughts, seeing how my entire life is a power trip I have decided to go woth a 68mm big bore to compliment the 5mil longrod 4 mil stroker crank, the problem is the only piston I can seem to find for this is a pro x and it says nothing about a longrod or stroker engine and I would honestly prefer to use a pro-lite piston considering its well proven record in my machine. Any help on this would be great!! Ryan P.S. If my calculations are correct this bitch should rip!!

The ignition does run a different curve with more advance, I would have ran the plate at +7 or 8 degrees without it otherwise but it is a race fuel engine so with the compression and timing it should be good!

The ignition does run a different curve with more advance, I would have ran the plate at +7 or 8 degrees without it otherwise but it is a race fuel engine so with the compression and timing it should be good!

Here is the new setup that will be ready next week: Hotrods H129 crank (5 mil longrod 4 mil stroker) Wiseco 795 series pistons (64.5 mm) Trail/play port by On-Point (good friend and local 2 stroke ace) FMF SST's Prodesign head with 20cc cut domes from F.A.S.T. Billet timing plate set at +4 HD clutch fron F.A.S.T. Trinity 2 into 1 with 35pwk Dyan FS on curve 3 Stock rear sprocket and 15T front sprocket 110 octane leaded fuel 32:1 Yamalube 2R Comments and input would be appriciated! Ryan