Southside Motorsports

do you guys know of any good places to get some rear tires for street drags....also what hooks up the best ? and is it better to run a low profile or a fatter tire?

yesterday i went to my local dyno after my recent mods....and the first run i made 121.2 hp with nitrous in the first run and with the reed spacers and boost bottle....and took them off in the second run and it made 123.5 hp.

It all depends on your setup just like they said.....i run 22-11-8, 12 paddles on my fully built 350 and they work great so if you plan on doing some more mods i would definately go with the 12 paddles. It will save you money in the long run.

I wouldn't run more than a +4 if you want to do any jumping....any larger than that can make you bike feel heavy in the ass end.....even with a +4 it will feel like that. So if it were me i would go with a +2 or +3.

definately non o-ring....you will have to buy a bunch of chain and just cut it to the amount that you need...im not sure how many links.

i will be running either Stud Boy "pixx" or the Stud Boy "asassin drag studs"...the ice drags that i race at are in MI.....on anchor bay and Albright shores.

thanks I need a few more ideas guys ......

hey could you post some pics of your project haybushee?? im interested in seeing how it looks.

Hey, I was wondering if you guys had any tips you could tell me on Stud pattern for the ice drags. I have an ice drag this weekend and am desperate need of front end lifting traction......any advice is greatly appreciated.

I run the pro-wedge 2's by OHSTU...they hook up better than any tire that i have seen for the dirt... I also hear good things about the maxxis 4-snow's.

I got the exactly definition of for the straight cut gears now. I called my buddy which owns a 1/4mi. dragbike performance shop. He say what they do is reduce engine deacceleration when you let off of the throttle, Less friction and, less of a load on the crank.

Thanks guys, I will get rid of the reed spacers.

Hey Dragg-On could i see those dyno sheets....just so i have an idea of what kind of power gains to expect. It would be much appreciated. You can either post them on here or email them to me at this address. (bonzos1729@msn.com)

Try adding some compression.... It is always a good way to make some good low end power. Also i noticed that you have way too high of a gearing try running a 14 43.

I need more opinions guys.....help me out.

I think you have them confused with an override trans. Im talking about the main gears....on the crank and the clutch basket. An override trans allows you to shift wide open without the clutch.

RDZ racing did my port work....So yes i would say that they are a good builder. Did the alcohol help you get out of the hole better?? Or just downtrack?

Im running A 350 Gas, Stock Stroke, Drag ported, Vito's pistons, Twister Crank, Dyna FS digital ignition, 35 mm pwk's, Pro-Design Cool head w/ 18 cc. domes, Pro-Design intake, Modified Stock reed Cages, CPI out of frame drag pipes. etc

Is there any advantage of running straight cut gears for 300ft. drags (times, reliability?) Or is this just a thing for asphault racers to changer their gear ratios internally? Any advice is appreciated.

I am thinking about getting alcohol conversions done to my carbs. But before i do i was wondering what kind of gains or disadvantages will come along with it. Will it be a significant seat of the pants mod or just somthing little that i won't notice much and won't help my time that much??? Any Advice is greatly appreciated. I am trying to drop my times.

Im running 4.50 in 300ft. on dirt and 4.80 on sand. I am running a 350 stock stroke gas. w/ 35mm pwk's, drag port job, Vito's Pistons, Dyna Fs Digital Ignition, Pro-Design Cool Head, plus 8 in. swingarm, lowered 2 in. The other stuff is a secret...

Is your motor Ported at all??? I run 35 mm on my 350 gas stock stroke with a drag port job and it runs great...you may need to do some jetting or portwork. Also try a hotter ignition I run a Dyna FS digital and it completly cleaned up how my motor runs and gave me greater tuneability.

Is is true that reed spacers will give you more top end h.p. if used on the outside of your reed valves or is it better to not use them at all. Wicked ATV motorsports makes an intake manifold that appears to have the reed spacer built into but it is on the out side of the reed valve. Any advice would be appreciated I am currently running a 4.80 in 300ft. and am trying to get my times down.