RUNMYTA

Thinking about these piston and rings for the rebuild. Anyone have any info on these! Thanks! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-YFZ-...sspagenameZWDVW

If I force the new seal in with some silicone, do you think it will hold? I am sure that someone has fixed this problem before.

I finally dragged the Shee out of hibernation and was trying to get her back to normal when I noticed I was leaking oil from the shifter seal. I buy a new seal, pull the old one, and try to install the new one when I see that the metal lip that the seal sets in is oblonged!! It looks like the chain must have been hitting on it over a long period and has cause the hole to warp! Is there any way to fix this. If I force the seal in it will tear it and will leave some gaps due to the out of round shape. Has this happened to anyone else??

If I can help keep mine and your families safe, I will go back for tour #3 if need be!! Scouts Out!!

Is he still around? What about IRideA250R? That was another reason that I shyed away from the HQ.

NYUK, It has been awhile! I just finished my 2nd tour in Iraq and that has hindered the Banshee riding or any riding at all. I will be home for a while and getting the Shee back up to par is one of my goals!

I am finally breaking the shee back out of her hibernation. Anyway, here is my crazy issue with here. I think I might have a coil problem, but wanted to check with you guys to see what you have to say before I buy a new coil. Bike starts and idles fine. It will take off good then sounds and feels like it falls off to 1 cylinder. I can pull the left cylinder plug wire off the spark plug and it dies. I replace that one and start back up and pull the right plug off and she runs but you can tell it is on 1 cylinder. ***Kicker*** I swap the plug wires and perform the same test and both cylinders die. Where as the other way the right cylinder would stay running. Should the engine die if one of the plugwires are pulled? I know this is crazy, but I am stumped!

220 Mains and 25 pilots with airbox lid on, snorkel removed and a foam filter. 2 into 1 pipes do not like K&N's

12 Years now and I love it! If your scared say it!! 29N10, 35N20, 79T40, and 19D40 SCOUTS OUT, HOOOAH!! ^ ^ ^ Tell me what it is????

Dealer is full of shit. I know that they make a 22.5! I am not for sure if anything smaller. Mike

I have ran the Moto-fast 2 into 1 pipe for several years now and itis the best pipe for lowend XC/MX style riding you can get. Pipe with shaved head will give a lot of "pop" down low. Mike

I always wet my shee down, then soap down, then spray Fantastic on everything, let stand for 1-2 mins then take a scrub brush and use in circular motion. Cleans all the dirt out of the cracks and crevics. Then spary Tire Shine on the plastic and WD-40 on the motor.

Not trying to be a smartass, but dam it guys....LISTEN Right plug is """BONE DRY & WHITE"""" how in the hell can a bad coil or plug cap cause a fucking lean condition?????? I am not trying to start a pissing contest and I appreciate the help so far , but if you have no clue what in the hell your talking about then don't post shit in guessing what you have read before on another post and try to get your post count higher! rebelbanshee2, I have all the TORS disconnected. I can put either plug wire on the right cylinder and shee will idle fine and will run if the "LEFT" plug wire is pulled. It just goes lean under a load. My question now is has anyone ever had the crank center bearings/seal cause a problem like this. Thanks,Mike

Both side of the coil are firing. I asked the Yamaha shop and they said that 1 lead was the dominant ground source for the coil and thay is why it acted funny by switching the plug wires around. While there I also asked my buddy the service manager to explain where he is getting the center crank seal from. So he pulled a service manual and showed me that between the center journals where the center bearing is that it is sealed between the cranks. He said he that he couldn't remember if it was an actual "removable seal" or a machined seal. Then another mechanic chimed in and said that it was machined onto the crank between the center bearings and if it was bad it would cause a lean cylinder. SO they both agreed that while the right cylinder is pressurizing on combustion stroke and the left cylinder is vacuuming on the intake stroke, it is pulling the fuel charge from the right cylinder and burning it in the left cylinder I also removed the complete intake system. I replaced reed cage gaskets, triple checked carb & reed boots, borrowed some new take off carbs from a buddy and replaced my carbs. Removed the tank cleaned the petcock, pickup hoses that go in the tank, cleaned the tank with fresh fuel, and replaced all of the fuel lines. Still the bike idles fine and when I put it under load it drops off the right cylinder and the plug is completely white with no signs of fuel! So I guess I am off to tear her down and replace the crank. It is the original 99 crank. SO I guess it is due to be replaced. Where do you recommend getting a crank from? TIA MIKE

OK, Now it gets even better.!!! I can switch the plug wires and the right cylinder still runs lean!! Well, this morning I pulled the left plug cap off the shee while running and it kept running on the right cylinder. Then I replaced the left cap and pulled the right plug cap off while running and shee died!! So I switched the plug wires to the opposite cylinder and the reverse of the above happened!!! I know the wire is getting spark because it bit me real good. The plug wire that is closest to engine is the one that killls the engine. What in the @$$@# is causing this? I have never seen anything so f-ed up before! Thanks for helping guys!! BenBB, I have tried everything except the leak down test ( i am in the process of getting a tester together). I don't think that the carbs are the problem (never know for sure) because I have cleaned them very extensively and my shee idles fine and pulls out OK, just when it gets under a heavy load is when it drops the right cylinder. No popping or anything, just loss of power and the right plug always showing very lean. As far as head gasket I am running a cool head and I have checked the coolant and it is full. B370, No both cylinders are hitting, just the right one falls of under load. I have some used tops that I was given that i am going to try today. The bike never sets more than 2-3 weeks with out a least being started and rode around my yard for a few minutes TIA,Mike

B370, I had a wrist pin bearing let go and killed the left cylinder. So I had the cases split and cleaned out to make sure no metal was sucked into the crank case. While in there we put in new seals/bearings. I am running the stock carbs bored out to 27.5. I have switched the plug wires and still have the same effect. Plus if it was an ignition problem wouldn't the plug be fouled and wet? I have even pulled the stator cover off and sparyed WD-40 to see if it was sucking air there and it isn't. I am losing my mind F-ing with this thing Pimp, What could be wrong with the carbs?? There isn't to many moving parts that can go bad and everything looks good. Would the carb tops cause this?? Thanks,Mike

OK, I am about to burn my shee and shoot the service manager at local stealership. Here is the total story. 99 Shee, complete new topend less than 1 hour, cases split with new crank seals and bearings installed at the same time. Before the rebuild shee started running bad and acted like it was running on 1 cylinder. Also new reeds, and intake boots installed. All new gaskets through out. I have cleaned the carbs several times, checked for possible air leaks around the intake and base and head gaskets. No leaks found!! But runs lean on the right cylinder only!! **** Local stealership service manager (does all my transmission work at home dirt cheap) says that it has to be the center seal that is between the rods that is letting the air in or sucking the gas charge out of the right cylinder into the left. Some of you guys say that there is not a center seal!! Does anyone know for sure or have a microphisce to show the crank?? I know I need to try to do a leak down test, but where can you get the tools for this? TIA Mike

I think the gremlin on my right side cylinder being lean is the center crank seal. Is there anyway to replace this seal without replacing the whole crank?

If it was the left crank seal (then wouldn't the left cylinder be the one that would be lean??) What about the center seal? What would happen if it was bad?? Can the center seal be replaced on a stock crank??

OK guys, Tell me what you think. My 99 Shee has ran lean on the right cylinder for several months now (Shee is barely riden anymore).I have cleaned the carbs about 3 times, replaced the reeds, new reed valve gaskets, new intake boots and I have checked for air leaks every possible way I know how. Here is the kicker!! I can start her up 1st kick after setting for 2-3 weeks, sounds good, warm her up for a min or 2 and take off and shee pulls decent through 3rd then falls off to 1 cylinder. I rode her today and pulled the plugs, left plug looks great( maybe just a tad rich) right plug looks grey almost white!! Then I swap the plugs and shee runs decent until 3rd then falls of to one cylinder. I run her back to the house and the right plug has burned off the oil deposits and turned it white with a 30 second ride??? Lets hear what you think this could be?? TIA Mike

I will be there! Look me up. My wife will be on a Blue 99 Shee with Skin graphics and a motofast 2 into 1 pipe and I will be on a LRD 300R with K&K graphics with #96 on it. Mike

BenBB, I occasionally browse through to see what up in the HQ! As bad as I hate to admit it, I don't ride the Shee as much as I use to:( But I am doing good! Thanks! Racer714 I would think that the 220 mains would be close but start with the 240 main and run it and pull the plug and let us know what it looks like. P.S. use new plugs!

The 2 into 1 pipe was designed to make the Banshee have more lowend for XC/MX. From all the testing I have done with the 2 into 1 it can not handle all of the extra air/fuel coming in. The pipe uses back pressure to gain the lowend grunt you get. I have tried to jet my shee to run with a K@N and lid off and shee never felt right. To answer your question 240 mains with the lid off should be a good safe starting point, probably 230, alot of it depends on elevation. Like the above guys have said try it and check your plugs. To re-iterate 2 into 1 pipes flow less or equal to stock pipes!!! They just move the torqe curve lower in the RPMs. So why would you put 270- 320 mains on a stock flowing SHee??? Granted taking the air box lid off you should go up 1-2 sizes max!

On a unported Shee 220 mains 25 pilot (stock) and needle on 3rd clip from top. I only run 250 mains on my ported Shee, with motofast 2 into 1, and with cool head w/17cc domes!! 2 into 1 pipes actually flow about the same or a little less than stock pipes. They just help bring the power curve down in the lower RPMS for lowend power

Banchetta, You are wrong! If the pilot jet is to lean or has dirt in it, it will rev to the moon.Mike