kr0nic

Going to be the cub. Just from a performance standpoint, you have 13 ports with a cub, and 9 with a stock jug, do the math.

If you dont have pipes start there, biggest bang for the buck. So, I would upgrade in this order when you can afford it. Pipes + K&N PODS + Jet Kit, Vforce reed valves, Mill the head ~0.30 (don't go over 0.40 with out rechambering), get an adjustable timing plate (rickystator.com $35 or ebay), mod shift star + shiftpro, (starts getting spendy now) get a port either mild, dune, race, or drag ( Its all personal preference/experience, on that note I ran a mild for 2 years before going bigger, and it is a good transition when you decide to step it up), the list is kinda endless from here. Now with that being said on to the suspension. Obviously, you realize that the design of a stock banshee suspension is slightly dated (geometry, travel, and non adjustable shocks(front)). I'm still running my stock shocks (no budget for elka's ) and they are "alright". A-arms are a very nice additon, longer swingarm (personal preference here), and wider axle. So, its all about how much you want to spend. A little here and there spread over time and you will have what you need. Although, if all you want to do is beat a little yfz 450. I say pipes, k&n's, mill head, v-force reed, spend the time to jet the bike (170-190mains, 27.5-30pilots, stock or aftermarket needles center clip, airscrews about 1.5-2 turns out). If you do this you will not have a problem with that 4 choker, atleast until he starts to do mods to beat you. Oh, sweet competion :beer:

Run 14/44 gearing and get some 22x11x8 12paddle ultra-lites. The straight haulers are a little lighter than the extremes, but the ext. have a little more bite (need bigger motor or gearing). I have multiple friends with stock motors w/t5s and fmfs running awsome. They are the shit, kinda spendy though, but worth every cent!

14/44 in the dunes, 13/44 in the trails. My question to you is, Why do you want to go +85mph in 6th? I say gear it for power, and if you want to go fast let the RPM do its job.

only reason you would replace the rod(s) would be 1. If your bearings seized and scored the bearing surface (unlikely) or 2. you want to goto a long rod( which when you add the price of swithing to that you might as well just get a pre-done crank or better yet goto a 4mm . The stock Royal rod work tits, I have been putting +80hp to them with out a worry in my mind that they will fail, that guy that told you to replace them is a douche, and wants your money.

355 cub, jetting varies, 20cc domes, +3-5deg on 92 w/ 32:1 benol (+7-8 on 110 works killer for racing, haven't tried AV on this motor but had good luck with it on past motors). No problems with premium (have been running it for 3 years), and its a hell of a lot cheaper, unless you want to drag race, I say goto 76 and fill it up :thumbsup:. Although if you do have the money for it, you will be able to tune more power out of race gas, no question.

Invest in some offset hanger, or the poorman's (nothing wrong with it) washers/spacer and longer bolt(s). I have a slight miss alignment on the stator side, using a couple washer has lasted over 4 years, with no problems. Also, try to avoid solid mounting anything on your exhaust, it will crack the hangers off, I've had to fix two sets of stingers (not mine personally) where they were solid mounted and broke off, kinda a pain when your away from camp when it happens too.

0.035 to 0.050 is just a guide, it can be anywhere in that range. Obviously you wouldn't want anything less than 0.035 and you don't need anymore than 0.050. Besides unless you were to machine your own domes, someone that knows what they are doing will be doing it.

Don't use that yama-honda bond junk. Its a pain to clean up, you will know when you split the cases. Get a tube of Permatex - anarobic gasket maker, it's about $20 a tube and I have done atleast 10-15 cases with one tube. Clean's up with acetone. Clean both case halves with acetone, then apply a thin layer ( I usually dab it with the tube then go over it with my finger to make it a uniform coating, also apply it to the bottom case (tranny side) it makes it a little easier to put back together. Once it is all bolted back together clean the seam with a rag with some acetone, and finnaly finnish asembly and ride that sh*t! :thumbsup:

Really depends on what you are doing or plan on doing (drag racing, mx racing, trail riding, duning). I had good luck with the tusk clutch, I ran it for 5yrs before replacing it with a stock clutch (honestly if you have steel plates, these are a really good clutch for the price ~$90 for the fibers). Heavier springs are a must though. With big HP, I would look into a lock-up.

I wouldn't necessarily worry about your squish (from a performance stand point) its more a safty margin. In other word, when the motor starts to pull rpm the internals start to stretch (minimal but measurable) you want to make sure you have enough squish so your pistons don't start hammer your head and destroy your topend/ bottom end. Some where in the 0.035 to 0.050 range. I would be more concerned with the compression (160-190psi), angle of the cut (12-16*), and the cc of the chamber (pump gas 20-24cc). Do you have a cool head, or are you just modifying your stock head?

FMF Fattys - great all around pipe (great for trails, dunes, mx) CPI inframes - I run mine in the woods, mx tracks, and of course the dunes, just don't expect to be pulling stumps in the bottom end T5s - good mid to top pipe for stock to mod motors These pipes have been around for along time and theres a reason there still very popular. IMO the other's try but fall behind, stay away from DMC, trinity, pro circuit, ect.

Klotz Benol 32:1, can't go wrong... ummm racy odor :thumbsup:

22x11x8 12 paddle ultra-lites, best paddles hands down stock to ~100hp then 14s