SemperChaos

Has less to do with them running cooler and more to do with having a higher heat capacity. More BRAAAPPPP before you warp something.

Aight so here goes. I purchased a metals tech oval tube arm, and a bearing carrier kit from FAST. There was an issue with the guide pin bushing basically being made for a round tube arm and not being long enough. To be honest, the back and forth from fast could have been a little bit better. But I give them a pass, because they have done right by me on everything I have ordered from them. Now here is the cool part. I called Modquad last week and they were super polite and cool. They understood the issue and shit me out a bushing. I mean like I called them I think tuesday last week and it came in the mail today. Parts incompatibility happens, freaking awesome customer service from modquad. I should probably mention that the bushing they sent me worked perfect. Both Companies will get my business again.

I mean, I won't know until the bike is on the dyno.

you can safely add 2-3 degrees of timing and a little more compression as well.

Put some carbs and reeds /spacers on it, keep the T6, Go to a 14 tooth front sprocket and you will spank him.

They seem to be made with quality. Should be fun, bike is 1 step closer to running.I made a video. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was not trying to sound argumentative. I appreciate your input. For me most of the expense is in the tools. The time aspect for me is not really important(not saying it wont get to be that way). I used to fab chassis, I enjoyed the work, I enjoyed building things. My current career pays good but is boring as hell. There is very little thinking. This is something I am doing for enjoyment, and hopefully it pays for itself. I might finish the first one and go straight back to the drawing board because it sucks. Failure is the best teacher. I have been running some math on these front ends, the bump steer is garbage on all of them. There seems to be something to be gained in changing the inner pivot a bit, but short of redesigning the way these things steer there does not seem to be a good solution. On pavement cars we can get that shit perfect, zero change on the RF and a tiny bit of bump out on the LF. These things bump in massively, that can be made to work if you slice the bike in half and only worry about one corner at a time. but in a straight ahead scenario its going to act like a speed brake. Maybe there is not enough grip to matter, I wont know for awhile.

250R A-arms bolt right up to the laeger. I will not have the capacity initially to be making a bunch of different parts. People being able to buy stuff and bolt it on is a good thing. I would not take a design that was being used by someone else and "Steal it". The frames are no longer in production and you cant get them. The plan is to make most of the bike out of 1020 US made DOM, I may decide to use 4130 on the bend bars, There is not that many feet of tubing in a banshee/hybrid frame. Sure if you only buy 3-5 sticks at a time you pay full pop. I have an established relationship with a steel yard and my pricing is good. I would like to keep the cost as low as I can. My cost for a certified welder is 250 a frame. That leaves $250 for tacking it together and fitting all the tubes. I understand your motion ratio reference on the protraxx. My experience comes from circle track chassis. I don't want to necessarily compete with people making expensive frames. I want the frame simple, not to far outside of the box, not alot of "special" parts. Buy it, bolt some shit on and go. "Oh hey, this thing has great pipe clearence and handles good". Thats what I want people to say.

Linky plz Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Going to unload her tomorrow, So tired. I might fuck around and set up the Tig tomorrow as well. I need to get a jig made for these silencers. (Exhaust silencers, since the AFT is probably reading this) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If my bike has an onlyfans does that count?

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direct drive clutch cover, chariot water pump cover. I also bought a chariot stator cover with bearing support.

I apologize for not providing pictures as the cover has been filed and installed. I am not going to take it back apart to complain about it on the internet XD

Bought one of their new covers with my new motor. Tried a stock water pump cover, a chariot, and a random polished skull one that I have. None of them fit. Now I had already decided that I was going to file my new chariot cover to fit because I didn't feel that it was right to make a company pay like 500 for 2 ways of shipping on my new motor. I called them to say that there was a possible quality escape. A nice lady answered the phone and gave me a number to send a video to. I was not sure what the response was going to be. The response I got was them placing a trimmed cover on one of their covers showing that it fit the one they had. This did not make much sense because obviously mine was different by how much material I had to remove to make the cover fit. The man who made the video they sent me blamed my covers(including the stock one). I thought this was a poor way to treat a customer. If there was some type of indication that I needed a "special" waterpump cover. I would have just ordered it from the get go. 2 things, I will not be using their products again, and I should have just went with the billet one that FAST sells. Side note: I don't know how hard of a aluminum chariot uses, but damn. It took me a solid 3 hours of filing and checking to make it fit. Great quality from chariot.

I know how to design suspension. I have a problem wanting to make it to good at a specific thing though. Has to be good duning, track, whoops, jumps, etc. like the sundhal frame is a perfect example of this. badass baja bike, and suffers everywhere else because of it. I have a problem where I focus on one path and head straight down it. Like a decent frame would be with laeger pickup points, and honda 450 spindles. cr500 link, or no link(both are good in their own respects). The only downside to the 450 spindles is the kpi is 1 degree less. better for turn entry, worse for turn exit. I really need to put the laeger back together and check the castor.

I have 2 products to make before frames though. Engine shipping containers and Silencers that are replacements for CPI. Mainly because I need both of those things. Fuck cardboard.

Well, I was not into the yfz 450 stuff on a banshee before. However after my conversation there is alot to be gained there. The guys who bought all the laeger jigs out of france are making a banshee with 450ish front suspension. That would be the one to copy if a guy was going to do that. A note on the lonestar frame, I believe that frame has a improved rear shock location.

just ordered my cover with support.

oh, not the oem upper that would be to short. I acctually got to talk to the man who engineered the laeger banshee today. I am very grateful for that conversation. I will have a massive post about it in a week or so. I have to go over my notes.

No, one "jig table" and 2"x2" heavy wall square tubing that the frame sits on with .125 spacers on top. You don't want to weld to your table if you can help it. The square tubing bolts in with a tapered fastener that is countersunk in. That keeps your consistency. Why the .125 spacers you ask? that is so that you can use a piece of tubing that is .250 larger OD and .125 thick and split it down the center to weld your tubing guides on to. That will help you to be consistent. You "can" just measure real good off a flat surface. It is better to have the fixtures though. It cuts down on the human mistakes. Most proper frame jigs look like a damned spider. Every surface that has a specified point IE: suspension pickup points, body mounts, fuel tank mount. etc. has to have a provision on the jig. There are many straight bars that you can just measure and put them in. Not reinventing the wheel here. This is like fabrication 101. I am just grateful there are no sheet metal templates to deal with like on the circle track cars.

Lots of measuring, and having a very straight frame to copy helps.

its a 500R

That is a kick in the dick man. Do you have any way to shrink the metal in that spot?

We will see. I have a laeger to copy if you fuckers pressure me into it xD