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ATV_hub
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Posts posted by ATV_hub
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4 hours ago, Kb35001 said:
Did you get 28 pwk or round style And what jets do you run
Pwk 28 flat slides, my jetting is 150main 50 pilot and jjh needle middle clip
3 hours ago, gusto said:You definitely don’t need them for your motor, they are easier to access the jets though.
I agree, you don’t ‘need’ them but they are very nice carbs. I would never go back to stock.
-Ben
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I have a set on mine, now that I know what they’re like I would definitely buy them again, easier to tune, better throttle response, smoother, stronger power. My bike is noticeably sharper with them on it.
-Ben
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I would say about 145 is somewhere close to 260 for a banshee (at a guess) but start a few sizes higher and only drop one size at a time.
-Ben
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17 hours ago, Weston_ said:
Thats what im confused about could you explain that to me, im running a 280 in the mikuni and we want to make it leaner so down toa 260, what size woupld i put in the Pwk
There is no explaining, they’re just different
21 hours ago, #1JUANstunna said:Jet sizes in these carbs aren't the same. Each brand has its own numbering for the size.
Also, that sounds like a crazy big jump in jetting.
But if you want a reference my jetting for pwk 28’s is 150 main 50 pilot, jjh needle on the middle clip (If I remember correctly). All my mods are listed.
-Ben
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Definitely get rid of those yfz shocks. I would not call it a mx build with those on it, they are far too stiff and will cause huge arm pump after a few laps.
The yfz shocks are longer and might have more sag making it more difficult to lift the front end, your rear shock might also be soft and soaking up some of the power.
It is a strong possibility that you have excess caster, and this may be the reason it feels unstable at high speeds, it’s a trade off, low speed agility vs high speed stability. Do your upper a arms have spacers on one side?
If you plan on hitting jumps and whoops you should really look for a shock with high speed compression adjustment, but the float 3’s should be a big improvement over standard yfz shocks
-Ben -
8 hours ago, Deets said:
Do the carbs have KEIHIN embossed on the side?
And also a serial number on the body just above the float bowl?
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Based on your description it sounds like you got the knock offs from BP racing, what is your jetting?
-Ben
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For another $300 you can get fox float 3’s and some piece of mind or you could buy a used pair. Cheeping out on eBay shocks is not worth it IMO.
-Ben
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On 12/4/2020 at 11:48 PM, caleb90 said:
pulling my motor apart. any bracket supposed to go over breather hose?
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
While your in there you could block off this breather and plug the hole for the hose with some black silicone. It was used for the 2t oil pump on the rd/rz 350. The brass nipple presses out (from the outside in) you can make or buy a block off plate that screws in to those 2 holes. It’s not necessary but it’s a much cleaner set up.
-Ben
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43 minutes ago, caleb90 said:
not the kickern but the kicker idle gear. after removing it the bushing is worn.. research shows me this is a common problem
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Yes, it is, the bushings are cheap to replace
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The scuffing is normal, I presume Yamaha do it to balance or just to clean up the casting, the kicker assay has play as you removed the cover, the cover supports the shaft.
-Ben
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If you used one of those carb rebuild kits I would put back in the old jets. it is almost certain the jets in the kit will not be the same size as the jetting you had.
If you used a kit, put back in your old jets and try again.
-Ben
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29 minutes ago, 10mmbandit said:
Thanks man never even heard of them. They look good and are reasonably priced ill be ordering and giving them a shot.
Let us know how it goes, there are no reviews of kased plates on here yet and I haven’t tried them personally but they look good
-Ben
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price it up and see what will be the best option, imo I would avoid trying to retrofit shocks from a different machine
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14 minutes ago, caleb90 said:
alba has a lt set up with shocks for a good price.. seems cheaper to buy the package vs buying the shocks seperate
yes, you save some cash in the package deal, I believe the legacy series shocks that come in the deal have steel bodies, something you might want to consider as they will be heavier and could chip and rust if you race and get roosted.
-Ben
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I have been using an ebay stator for the past year that came with a 2 year warranty as my oem stator tested good but the poles were badly corroded so i am keeping it as a spare. I had to solder the plug connections as they were just crimped. but other than that it has been flawless. Might be an option for any european members viewing this thread as getting an oem (new or used) shipped from the states can be expensive.
-Ben
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On 11/24/2020 at 9:52 PM, caleb90 said:
thing that bothers me with albas is the shitty bushings, i could make brass ones at work to make it a none issue. but buy once cry once?
Similarly to loco, I have lt alba arms also. I have ran them for 5 years before I had to replace the bushings, if you look after your stuff and do the correct maintenance alba are fine. Would I prefer fireball or roll? Yes, but I don’t have any complaints about the alba arms, they are very good value.
-Ben
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If you are looking to port stock cylinders there are a number of extremely experienced engine builders in the uk. John Floyd of Floydy racing would definitely be able to port your stock cylinders or set you up with any cylinders or crank. His cylinders hold some British records I believe.
-Ben
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Kased plates make plastic skid plates for the banshee
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is the packing in your silencers good?
Any decent stators out there yet?
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Does it really matter? I’m not concerned about where it comes from as long as it’s reliable. The price was right and the quality is good, ima run it!