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ATV_hub
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Posts posted by ATV_hub
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On 7/15/2021 at 11:31 PM, caleb90 said:
4mil crank on stock cases. any bore cylinder dosnt matter it will fit but wont run great
Ummm... no
On a stock 54mm stroke crank you can go up to 68mm bore, bigger bore than that you need case work.
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I have a xrw bumper, plastic skid and swing arm skid. They are based in Europe but maby could be an option? Not what import would be like for you guys but they are reasonably priced. The quality and fitment of everything I have got from them has been excellent and Their parts look very good also.
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Keno has given good advice.
If you just bought it I would focus on replacing worn out parts first, I would check out the water pump, clutch, reeds, all linkages, bearings etc. and give it a service and carb clean. I would also delete the tors.
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Cut the line down to where you want it and put on your own stainless banjo with a new copper olive and copper washers. I make all my own brake lines definitely no need to go out and buy another set of lines.
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Tm designworks slide, guide and rollers, Drw case saver, tried and tested. Best on the market imo
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This thread is over a decade old Vf 3’s aren’t even made anymore.
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To me it sounds like a shock length issue
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I’m no help with jetting stockers but, are the bowls on the right carbs? are the slides the right way around? Is the choke balance tube on right?
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Ok cool I get you, my stock carbs are long gone so I’m no help to you on jetting stockers, but don’t go changing jets and needles all at once, do one at a time and don’t drop a bunch of sizes at once. It might take a few tries but you’ll get there.
You don’t have to buy new boots, the stock boots have projections kinda like suffers on them, you just have to cut those off flush and it will all bolt up.
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I have a stock airbox phobia
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If your running the stock intake boots they will need to be modified to run v force reeds, not a big deal tho.
Also something to keep in mind, the jets included in those kits may not be the same as what’s in your carbs, if they are not the same do not use them
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Looks like some blow by in the last pic? Or a shadow?
I would rebuild it. If they are cast pistons, although they are fine and you can run a tighter wall clearance on them, they don’t like to go past service intervals or put up with as much abuse as forged pistons, last thing you want is a cracked skirt and wrecked motor.
If you don’t know what’s in it or how many hours it has done I would rebuild the top end and inspect everything else. At least then you know what you have and can have confidence in your machine.
While it’s open clean up that exhaust port, If you want to eliminate or at least greatly reduce that carbon buildup polish it and use a good ester synthetic oil
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Chariot 🤟🏻
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Most oem baskets will develop some play, won’t cause shifting issues but best to repair anyway. My basket has about 5mm of play and it isn’t causing issues, but I have a rebuild kit on the shelf waiting to go in.
Mis-alignment will still allow shifting in one direction but make shifting in the opposite direction difficult but usually still possible.
You need to look deeper. Split the cases and inspect imo.
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On 1/13/2021 at 5:53 PM, Metal_man_Rob said:
I don’t care about horsepower gains.
Leave it stock so.
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Nope, probably just wear and tear
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7 minutes ago, 375hp banshees said:
I just got the one for a bigger sprocket, I wonder if there not as effective, with a small sprocket, on a big sprocket style saver?
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
The reason there are different sizes is to prevent the chain from bunching up if it breaks. If there is enough room for the chain to fold back on itself it could potentially get caught up. I would say it is most effective to follow dwrs recommendations but surely a case saver is better than no case saver. I think you would be extremely unlucky if it caused any issues.
I was going to buy the big sprocket just so I would have a bigger choice of gearing but decided against it as I don’t think I’ll ever need more than a 15t front sprocket
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1 hour ago, 2k7cheeta said:
Maybe I’m crazy I could have swore I saw one. What’s the best case saver out there?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThe best is DRW, it’s a serious bit of kit completely fills the empty space around the sprocket, cheap insurance and piece of mind, a broken chain can cause complete havoc and ruin your day
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I was going to relocate the switch to the stem loop and access the switches through the vents in the tank cover but decided to just delete the lights.
It might fit in there, I didn’t really try it, just an idea
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Also never seen one, I’ve a drw on the bench waiting to be installed, considering getting a chariot 2 piece or mattoon stator cover, not sure which to go for yet.
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I may be wrong but finding stock 64mm cylinders that do not need a bore may be a challenge, they’re all like 15 years old now, why not settle for a set that have been bored a size or two up?
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To make it look good you’d pretty much need a full set of plastics, tank, seat and the patience and skills to fabricate all the mounting points
Changing the front will have a knock on effect... The banshee front will not match up to the yfz tank, so you’ll need a banshee tank the banshee tank will not match up to the yfz seat and so on. Very expensive and even more time consuming
BUT!
If you do it you at least you will look fast as fuck boiiii
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Just learn to ride it really
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Gearing for low end will mean you sacrifice top speed. You also need to balance power and traction. Stock gearing is actually quite good for most riding. If you want more low end go down a tooth on the front sprocket or up a couple of teeth on the rear sprocket. There is a gearing calculator in the tech info section
Banshee rear brake loss (brake boiling over ) normal in heat ?
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
Change the fluid, Brake fluid absorbs moisture overtime and this will lower the boiling point, usually results in brake fade, boiling over is definitely an extreme case.
Change it with brand new fluid not something that has sat on the shelf for years.
If the pads are low change them.