97Screamer
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Posts posted by 97Screamer
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Two of them listing in Southern California right now for $11,500/ea lol.
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Yes, sealed side towards pump, open toward oil.
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Those are 33s.
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Those threads don't look so bad. Assume you know its left hand threads and thats not the problem I'd buy a thread file and clean them up.
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Lol, Toby is really mad. Looking up four year old post just to pick on Dennis. This is like the good ol days... 🤣
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I'm not saying that's the problem but I have read others that had that problem. If I was running an RZ at a track I would be premixing.
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk -
44 minutes ago, kobra said:
Hi guys, I wanted to get some more opinions on next steps since I reference this forum a LOT but it's my first post. Lots of great info here.
I have an RZ350 which is the same motor as the Banshee but with some tweaks, the biggest being it has powervalves. I recently rebuild it from the ground up, all new seals, new crank, new 64.5 Wiseco's, fiber reeds, 1mm squish, etc. Trying to go for an OEM+ build to maintain reliability.
Right around 500 miles I was really romping on it for the first time (on a closed course) WFO at about 100mph. It ran great. Then I let off and was cruising about 85mph, 1/4 throttle, and the left piston blew a hole in the middle and lightly seized.
Took the whole thing apart, cleaned the bore with muriatic acid and can't feel any scratches. I also took some bore measurements.
My questions are:
1. Where do you guys measure the bore diameters? In my manual it says to take 3 measurements both front to rear and side-to-side all above the exhaust port. I took some measurements of the entire length of the sleeve and they are both all in spec except for the region near the intake ports bridge below the exhaust port, which measured .005" and .0045" on left and right cylinders.
2. What kind of prep would you do before installing new pistons? Just throw them in? Scotchbrite? Flex hone? Wiseco hone brush? Sandpaper? I'm hoping I can get away with some new 64.5 pistons and it will all work.
3. Any ideas what other things I should check as to why this happened? The right piston looks fine. I pressure tested before and after and it held 6psi for 24hrs.
Here's some pics to make this slightly interesting.
After cleanup
If the cylinders are in spec after cleanup I would run them. If you didn't have an airleak (which sounds like you did a leak test and it passed) then your jetting was too lean. You using the oil pump or premixing the fuel?
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2 hours ago, Cardinell said:
It sounds to me the clutch wasn't properly adjusted the first time and the plates are now shot. You need to measure the fibers in several spots and make sure they're in spec. Another possibility is the plates are sticking together so be sure to soak in oil before you put back together.
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4 minutes ago, Mya baby said:
Cheetah cub cylinders .pro design cool head 22cc domes Drag ported . V force 4 reeds 35mm intake and t5s that are sand blasted in good shape. Pistons and rings only 2 hrs old .please call Glenn at 262-442-5271. Looking to get $1500 for all.
Is this a power valve (cheetah) setup or a standard cub?
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Those parts are out of production
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The seal is about $10. To have someone install it is probably $300-500. You should inspect everything and replace what's necessary. If you have a quality crank in good condition keep it, if not replace it. You can change cranks without needing to change anything else provided you're swapping the same stroke.
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Just the seal but your whole motor needs to come apart to change it so you'll need to inspect everything and replace as necessary.
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No, your crank seal is shot. Time for a rebuild.
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Read this, it will answer all your questions about jetting. Those needles might help mid range but not going to clean up your 0-1/4 throttle bog. I've ran stock needles on every stock carb banshee I've ever tuned, I don't think Toomey needles are necessary.
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Anyone know where this ended up. I'm looking for one if someone wants to thin their hoard.
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The tether and light/kill switch are not mutually exclusive, you can have both and move the switch anywhere you want.
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If you really want to slide it around the smaller tire and larger wheel will be better. You will be sacrificing traction so if you race at all you'll be at a disadvantage with smaller tire/bigger wheel. Its personal preference, unfortunately only you'll be able to decide what is more important. Or you can end up like me and have both.
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https://westcoastatvparts.com/
http://drivelineperformance.com/
They have contact info on their websites and are also on Facebook if you have a Facebook account.
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I'd get in touch with Brian at West Coast ATV Parts or Bill at Driveline. Both can put together a good package to fit your needs and budget. Most of the "kits" you'll find on eBay/Amazon/etc.. contain a lot of junk parts that will leave you in worse shape in the long run. The most cost effective way would be to have your jugs bored up a size with Wiesco pistons, driveline clutch and driveline or rebuilt West Coast crank. The best bang for your buck if you want to upgrade would be a driveline top end. Either of the guys I mentioned can do any of that for you.
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Crank seal on the clutch side. Leak test to confirm.
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Sounds good, I'll throw it up there now and send any serious buyers your way. You have any pictures from the side? I'm curious about the shorter shock thing because it looks to have the same mounts as mine which is for standard linkage.
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3 hours ago, kawa110 said:
Trade arm plus cash for snipers....
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkMost overrated pipes there are., they're nice but not all that. They did find a home though. I'll post that arm on FB if you want to move it. Bet you could get $450+ for it over there by the end of the week.
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You have any porting? Have you set your pilot jet properly using the airscrew to find the highest idle? Where is your bog 0-1/4, 1/4 to half or half-full?
Full Bore Radiator Cap, Voltric Rear Fender, 2004 LE Covers, Roll Design Swingarm, Shifter and Brake Pedal
in Wanted
Posted
Looking for the following unicorns:
-Full Bore Radiator Cap
- Voltric Rear Fender, Black. Would also be interested in a set.
- 2004 LE Covers - Carbon print covers for a 2004, need all three. I recently sold the set I had and have major sellers remorse. The fenders are lonely.
- Roll Design Parts - Want a stock length swingarm but would consider up to +2. Have a very nice -1 I could trade or buy outright. Also looking for the brake pedal and shift lever.
I have cash and/or parts to trade. Hoarders open your storage bins and send me a message.