KwikShee

Hey guys I'm looking for some jetting help for a fresh rebuild. I posted in the jetting forum last month and didn't get an answer so I will try here. I'm looking for a baseline to start with the following specs. Stock stroke welded OEM crank. Bored 0.40 with Wiseco Pro lites. Alba dune/play port. Cool Head with 20 cc domes. 34mm billet intake. Chariot billet reed cages with Boyesen two stage reeds. Mikuni 34mm flatslides. UNI pod filters. Lightened flywheel. +4 Timing. FMF Fatty pipes with Power Core 2 silencers. Elevation 1500-2000' Non ethanol 93 with Klotz techniplate. Thanks in advance!!

Hey guys I'm looking for some jetting help for a fresh rebuild. I posted in the jetting forum last month and didn't get an answer so I will try here. I'm looking for a baseline to start with the following specs. Stock stroke welded OEM crank. Bored 0.40 with Wiseco Pro lites. Alba dune/play port. Cool Head with 20 cc domes. 34mm billet intake. Chariot billet reed cages with Boyesen two stage reeds. Mikuni 34mm flatslides. UNI pod filters. Lightened flywheel. +4 Timing. FMF Fatty pipes with Power Core 2 silencers. Elevation 1500-2000' Non ethanol 93 with Klotz techniplate. Thanks in advance!!

Elevation 1500-2000 ft. Engine mods are as follows. Bored 0.40, Wiseco pro-lights, stage 2 play port, welded stock stroke OEM crank, cool head with 20 cc domes, +4 timing, billet intake, billet Reed cages with 2 stage reeds, lightened flywheel, FMF pipes, 34 mm Mikuni flatslides, UNI pod filters. Any help appreciated, thanks in advance.

St. Anthony is awesome!! Went a couple times when I lived in Utah. I actually liked it better than Jericho, UT (sand mountain, little sahara) . Devils is like a Nascar track in the sand and Choke is fun for hill shooting and watching rails . It's pretty steep at the top for sure. We were pretty close to the lake, it's beautiful.

Thanks guys appreciate the input.

Hey guys I know this subject has been beat into the ground. I'm gonna be buying a crank next month and I'm trying to choose between an OEM or a Hot Rods. Whichever one will be trued and welded before install but just wanted some opinions on which one. This is gonna be a stock stroke crank as my jugs are ported for stock stroke and I already have the new pistons from when they were bored and ported. Mods are bored .040 with an aggressive trail port, cool head with 20 cc domes, timing plate, lightened flywheel, billet intake, 34 flat slides , K&N pods, FMF fattys . Pretty much it for engine mods, nothing too crazy.

I wanted K&T to porr it as they are only 20 minutes from me but their work load is 2 to 3 months out and since I'm doing a frame up build I'm trying to fit everything in a time frame so I have time for reassembly. They have an in house dyno I'm sure you could get graphs. I'm hoping to get some pulls on a dyno when it's together and post it up. I'm not a drag racer my group dunes mostly and trails. I tried to pick stuff for low to mid and my riding style and reliability. To each their own but I can't justify driving three hours ti run straight lines up the face all day and go home. Nor can anyone I ride witn.

Pick up a clymer or yamaha manual. There are diagrams for cables, wiring, hoses etc. Definitely need one if you plan on doing things right. They are worth their weight in gold.

There is definitely a lot of knowledgeable guys on here. I've also been building sleds and old Chevys my whole life but this is my first banshee but been riding forever. You can do some pretty cheap mods thst will wake it up a little like a timing plate and lightened flywheel. You can do both for around $100.

K&T performance but they're 3 months out. They were my first choice but didn't want to wait that long and as earlier said it will be more than 400. Alba is 4-6 week turn around and 550. I think JDS has a guy that offers it on their site for 450.

I know that there is two of those wires that have to be hooked together but i can't remember if it's part of the tors or parking brake set up. My buddy had the same problem. Also there's a black box that's part of the tors that some people forget to unhook that I believe could cause an issue. I'm not 100% sure because it was last year but something to think about if all else fails.

Thanks for the Google tip, it will definitely make it easier.

I agree I have gotten some helpful info on here. I guess you're gonna have that regardless of what site. I've done a lot of custom builds over the years. Sleds,bikes,cars,etc and I've been turning wrenches since I could reach the tool box. This is my first banshee build and regardless of how great of a mechanic/welder/fabricator someone is,the knowledge of people who have done it is worth it's weight in gold. Everyone started with no knowledge and I think people forget that they were there once too. All in all I appreciate the great knowledge base

I joined this forum to gain some knowledge and just in the first couple days 80% of it is bashing and know it alls and trolls with nothing to do but argue for the sake of arguing. Kinda disappointing.

If the performance is about even I would go with which one i thought sounded better.

They have a fixture it bolts in that mimicks the centerline of the crank.

They have a fixture it bolts in that mimicks the centerline of the crank.

I called K&T performance, JDS, CPI and a couple machinists with their own shops here local.

No they have a fixture it bolts in that mimicks the centerline of the crank.

It's not hot enough or long enough to weaking it or change the molecular structure. My dad is a retired Metalurgist and I've been an ASME code welder for 20 years specializing in Aluminum, ss and exotic alloys so I'm gonna go with it. To each their own. I'm just here to gather info and hep if I can.

I shopped around and word of mouth. Everyone I talked to is super pleased with the work. They've ported thousands of banshees and I wanted it line bored because it's far superior and wanted it done at the same time. They were within $50 either way as everyone else

They have dyno sheets at CPI. He's dyno run just about every pipe in development for his pipes. Maybe he meant more low to mid grunt than the shearers. He spoke highly of the shearers regardless. He used some design from sled pipes in his development. He said they make six pairs at a time and they're sold by before they get back from chrome and it's been like that since day one. I guess it comes down to how you ride and which personally sounds better.

Either way, heating the cover or chilling the bearing is six in one hand and a half dozen in the other. I'm just trying to help out with what worked good for me.

Heating the cover made it easier to remove and replace bearing as the aluminum expands a little. It's even recommended in my manual or it was in the hot rods bearing kit instructions.

CPI is about a half hour from me in Morgan Utah. His pipes sound amazing and my opinion the best pipe for a banshee. Shearer pipes are also sweet pipes but on a dyno the CPI pipes will give you a little more. Obviously depends on the build and I don't think it's a huge difference in hp but more is more anyway you slice it.