Dan7305

I have a Rickystator DC charging kit on my banshee so I can run HIDs, it feels like it never wants to clean out and is rich, even though while jetting it was getting way lean. Some folks on this site suggested I put on a known good stator, to see if my rickystator is bad. I don't have a KNOWN GOOD, since I never started it prior to rebuild, but I do have the stock one I pulled off of it. Reading up on it and looking at diagrams, there's mention of a floating ground to get the DC portion of it working, but nothing about creating the floating ground, or what that actually means. Can I just leave the yellow wire coming out of the stator un plugged to test run it, and just not use the lights? Or will that burn out that part of the coil? I don't know why it would, but lack of research led me to purchase the rickystator, just trying to cover my bases now. Also, who makes a good stator for running DC?

Double post.

I've seen it in a few other posts, but just in this one, surfrjag and trickedcarbine both said they're bad.

Wish I would have come across the bad reviews before I had installed... Guess I gotta start searching before purchases.

Update question, I had the adjustable timing plate set at 0 lined up with the case split. Is that firing at tdc, or is that saying 0 degrees from stock?

I was moving one jet at a time, I just made it down to 290.

Ok, I can throw the stock one back on, not sure on the known good part, as I never had it running before swapping it out.

First trip with the banshee, figured I'd jet it in little Sahara Oklahoma. In all my experiments, I could never get it to easily get into the pipes. If I got into the pipes in first or second,I could go like hell. In third gear or above, it wouldn't run bad, but not right, but would never get high enough in rpm to come alive. The machine, 2004 banshee LE HJR dune play port Bored up a size to clean the bores up. Pro circuit platinum pipes Pods on stock carbs Rickystator dc kit with adjustable timing at about 3 degrees. VF4 reeds and spacers I had the motor apart, all new seals, new HotRods crank from FAST. I got it running on: 320 main 30 pilot I think stock needles on middle clip. It still looked a bit rich, so one step at I term I brought it down to 290... Which to me seems kind of insane. I started at 0 degrees timing, bumped it up to 3 and that made a big difference. But still couldn't get into the revs in higher gears. One of the guys down there noticed the tube that goes between the intakes wad blocked off and loaned me his. At this point I must have broke the seal on the reeds, as I went way lean and hitting the reeds with carb cleaner would bring the idle down. I know the bike is 2 stroke, but I feel like I should be able to get it up there in third and fourth on the flat at the south entrance, and not have it fall on it's face when I try a drag race type start. Any pointers on what I need to try? I'm thinking maybe a single carb setup, but I don't know if that's going to give me what I need. Still heading home, so if I don't reply, I might be driving. Thanks.

Yeah, that's a whole lot of coin to drop when it could be a minor issue.

Awesome. Thanks

Does the breather just sit inside a seal? Do I just push it in from the outside? What are the 2 screw holes for? I'm looking to remove it to clean the cover in a parts washer, and I'd hate to screw it up by breaking something, and I have the seal kit, so I might as well seal the exxon valdez up as best I can. Doors this even matter? Can I just leave it in when I wash the cover?

Sending it to someone won't help you learn, if you're really wanting to learn it. Plus, it's already apart. When it hangs up on third, I assume you mean shifting from second to third it will not go into third? Even if you are rotating the gears while trying to shift. There should be tension on SOMEthing at that point. So while trying to shift into third, it hangs up, play with every moving part in that transmission, see which one is stuck. Everything inside the trans should have at least a little bit of play at all times. Finding the piece that's stuck will tell you what needs to be worked on. If you are still stumped after that, maybe find a local, smaller motorcycle repair shop, bring it in there, see if they can tell you whats wrong with it. Probably easier than having to put the motor back together to send it somewhere to take apart again. As a bonus, you can ask them to point out the issue.

That's what I thought. Stock it is. Thanks.

I had thought about it, but I just got the cylinders back from being bored and ported. Given that, I ordered the stock length from them, and cancelled the one from Amazon. Unless I'm misinformed and everything's the same other than the crank.

I'm in the twin cities of mn. I never even thought about looking at sponsors...

Never mind on the keeper, I found it on bikebandit. I should be able to have the local dealer get it for me.

I split my case this morning to get at the crank, bearings are shot, flywheel nut galled on its way off. I'm just getting a new crank. Amazon has Hotrods crank, 2 day shipping. Dennis Kirk has a seal kit, but I didn't know about the transmission shaft keeper that hides behind the clutch basket while separating the case, and I managed to crack it. Where can I get that keeper? Is the dealer my only option? Where could I pull the part number for that? For this crank, http://smile.amazon.com/Hot-Rods-4001-Crankshaft/dp/B000FTEVQK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER And this seal kit, https://www.denniskirk.com/cometic/bottom-end-gasket-kit-c7094be.p265747.prd/265747.sku Is there anything else that I am going to need, besides that keeper? I'm thinking I should get a manual also, so I know torque specs. Thanks in advance, I'm going to crawl in to bed, I'll check back when I get up this afternoon.

I'm not sure it's ever been apart. For right now I'm going to leave it together till it's all back together, I have enough bolts and such I'm trying to keep track of right now, I don't want to get distracted inside the trans

Apparently I'm an idiot and didn't read when I bought the foot pegs. The shifter is in fact for a 450, as advertised. I'm an idiot. Thanks for helping me realize it.

If the shaft is the right one, I'm going back to my original impression that the case has never been apart on this motor, just a quick hone and ring job to sell it to the kid I bought it from.

Yay for eBay! So is the shaft at least correct?

And how can you tell it's the wrong one?

Hopped up... Wait, that's not even a banshee shift shaft? Or it's not a banshee shifter? Kawa, yeah, looking at it the made the bastard shifter to fit this shaft location, then it hit on the foot peg, so they just took the peg off. My issue with tearing it down is that I don't really know how it's all SUPPOSED to be. I suppose I should pick up a repair manual.

Sheerips, I don't think 1-2 grooves will fix this. http://m.imgur.com/3P4tUwO And it's lined up on the shaft. http://m.imgur.com/evKhuXL Bennett, I'll get the picture this weekend. Just stroke, I don't have a clue, I've never had one apart so I don't know how it works.

I haven't really tried much, it will go into and out of first and second. The jugs are currently out being ported so I don't want to rock it too much and have the pistons moving unsupported. According to the previous owner it did shift fine.