Dan7305

I assumed crank seals, since that's what you guys started suggesting. Turns out, I'm blind and it is leaking at the base of the cylinders, BETWEEN the jugs. The bubbles were staying in between, I foolishly thought the bubbles would come out the front or rear, so I didn't look between till I heard the bubbles and started looking harder. Feel free to make fun of me for not getting on the floor and looking. Since I had the flywheel and stator already off, I did spray around that crank seal, and there is no leak. My vent tubes are tied together, I put a film of soapy water across the single opening, the bubble there didn't grow at all. I think that's what you meant for me to do, J-Madd. Also, I forgot to add it in, pickup coil gap is at .018. My problem is that while climbing an easy dune, if i drop JUST under the power band even in FIRST gear, I can't make it up. It WILL NOT make it back onto the power. That doesn't feel like normal operation. Given that people run with a larger leak than I have and they DO NOT have my drivability issues, I would like to nail that down BEFORE it gets too cold outside. Is that ok, knowing it's a base gasket leak? If I can get it running proper through the RPM range, I trust myself to pull the jugs off and re-seal that, without needing a test ride before the trip. I'm leaning towards electrical on the lack of power, as it is basically the same issue I had when the Ricky Stator was on it, but not as bad as that. With the RS it would barely get to the power on pavement. Now it will get there, it just feels like it is struggling to do it, and makes riding a PITA.

Previous reading reveals people with larger leaks and no issues with running. Given that, would my slower leak from 6 down to 3 psi in 50 minutes affect how it runs to the point it causes issues? If I buy just the seals, the coil will be bad, if I buy just the coil, it would have been the seals. Murphy's law would bite me. As stated I'm doing both, but I'm going to try the coil first, since that's a quicker swap. If that doesn't fix it, I'll still replace the seals, and I'll still bring it out and hope someone can help fix it.

Tricked, you got it. It's also some hesitation on going all the way to glamis from MN with a motor that's been apart but not tested.

Ok, Friday's payday, I'll call up the folks at FAST, get a coil, and crank seals. Do the coil first, if that fixes it, I'll feel confident in swapping the seals and putting it on the trailer to Cali with minor testing. If the coil doesn't fix it, I guess I'll still swap the crank seals, bring it out untested, and if it's still not running right, see if anyone out there can help. I don't think I'll be able to get a good solid test ride in. Deer season and cold air are coming.

If the pipes were plugged, I wouldn't expect the power band to come on at all. Fixing a crank seal is pulling the motor apart again, right? I have a trip to glamis planned in January, and I'm running out of time here in Minnesota to get a test ride in before it gets really cold. Because of that, with my luck, I'd fix it, take it to California without a test ride, and have something go wrong out there. I think I'll leave the leak till after that and then tackle it.

I'm fairly certain I floated the ground correctly. The dc regulator is functioning still, I rode for a solid 4 hours at night running lights. So I'd say that's a good sign. Dyna coil is suspect with 10k ohms on the secondary coil. Tors is gone, aftermarket mikuni cable and caps, no leak at the caps. E-brake is gone, lever and switch are there, zip tied closed. Crossover and float bowls are correct. Grounds should be good, I didn't paint the motor or anything, and the mounts were clean metal I both sides. I'm leaning towards the coil.

Brought the plug gap down to about .022. My gapper only goes to .020, I could try smaller, but I don't notice a difference after adjusting the gap. I'm going to double check that I moved the running the correct direction, and that I didn't retard it 3 degrees. While in there I'll check that side crank seal. Any problem tipping it on the left side to not have to drain the oil to check the output side of the crank? I've coated everything visible outside the motor with soapy water before during a leak down. My plug wires have about 5,000 ohms each also, but that looks normal according to a Google. So I could find were automotive sources though. I'm getting tempted to just send the $60+ your way for a new coil... I'd almost be worth it before ripping the motor down again.

Just did the squish with solder through the plug holes, I got .050 to .052, taking multiple tests. Compression is 125 psi in both cylinders. Think it could be just the plug gap? Seems simple enough to work...

I checked plug gap before hitting the road this morning, was around .031, I'll pick up some solder to do the squish test hopefully Saturday night.

Stator is OEM, coil is Dynatek. I was understanding that even at lower RPM, at WOT, the clip and needle only have so much to do with anything. Either way, while in the sad I moved the clip from position 2 to 4, or 4 to 2, whichever, leaning it out, and there was no difference in the way it ran. Tors is deleted. I do have a cool head, 22cc domes as that's what came with it. No I haven't checked the squish, I'll look into how to do that. Carbs are synced. Last I checked, before break in, both cylinders were at 120 psi. Air filters are clean, I haven't CHECKED the ground, but I did have the motor out, never painted anything, and it was all clean when it went back together.

Ok, I posted this in the jetting forum, but I no longer think it's jetting. I really am not sure at this point. https://youtu.be/SyopnBw_NHw?t=14s You can hear in the video at 17-18 seconds when I go from barely on the throttle to wide open throttle. Given that I am holding it wide open, the only thing jetting wise that should have an affect is the size of the main jet, unless I'm wrong on that. I bought the machine needing a re-build, so I rebuilt it with a F.A.S.T. trued/welded stock stroke crank. I had Herr Jugs do a port job, and bore the cylinders to start fresh and clean. I picked up a ricky stator DC conversion, which caused issues similar to this, but way worse. I put the stock stator back on, with a floated ground, and it got better, but is still struggling to get to the power band. I also have an adjustable timing plate set at about 3 degrees advanced. I did a leak down test, and I went from 6 psi to 3 psi in about 50 minutes. Not perfect, but I don't think that's nearly enough to cause my issue. Should I just start throwing parts at it? It has a Dynatek coil on it, which shows .5 ohms on the primary with 10k on the secondary, book says 7k, should I start there? My stator Ohms out great. Anyone in the northern suburbs of the twin cities interested in letting me try a known good coil?

I did some reading and figured that out. I do get about 10k ohms across the 2 plug outlets, I pulled the wires off to check just the coil. It's a Dynatek coil, not sure if they normally read high or not. I also did a proper leak down and found that I lose about 3 pounds in 50 minutes. Should I start another thread in the normal Mods & repairs forum, since I don't think the issue lies with jetting at this point?

It runs well at lower RPM, it'll tractor fine, and on the power it runs great also. On a whim this morning I took the multimeter to the stator and the coil. The stator is right in the good range, according to the factory manual, while the coil is considerably out of spec, to the point that my fluke cant see any connection between the plug output and the black connector. so, I'll be buying a coil and giving that a shot.

I can't find one on the intake. I haven't done a solid leak down though, I'll do that when I get home.

Do these stators have separate windings for high and low rpm? Could the high rpm side be getting weak?

I've got one clip to go, I'll try that tomorrow. Maybe I need a different needle.

I gave it a shot dropping the needle, no difference. I'm wondering if it's something other than a carb issue at this point.

I did try riching them. I could try pulling them up one from the middle. Do the needles affect anything at wide open though. I watched the video after posting it, and if I weren't the one recording, I wouldn't believe it was at wot. In the video aside from when I was turning around, I'm holding the throttle wide open in second gear, or off it totally.

I'm down in little sahara Oklahoma right now, trying to get my banshee jetted right. I have a cool head with 22cc domes, since that's what came with the head. Pro circuit pipes. The dune play port from hjr. I also have an adjustable timing plate, set to about 3 degrees advance. Running stock carbs with pods. TORS was removed when I bought it and I have no clue which caps and slides it has. Currently I have a 32.5 pilot, which seems to be fine. On the hard pack back home it would tractor up a hill just fine just off idle. My needle is in the middle slot, and I have a 340 main in it. I stated at 330, went to 320. At 320 it didn't pop as much, but felt less powerful while popping. The 340 pops more than the 330. Given the mods, I'm nervous to go leaner than 320. Am I wrong to expect a smooth climb in rpm when I mash it wide open from just off idle? I took a video. When accelerating, I'm going wide open.

I wasn't able to get my exhaust seal perfect, but it was close. So no, I did primarily check for leaks, but I did spray around the base and head gaskets, to look for leaks there.

I'm about ready to say there is no leak. If I give a full pressure, half second spray of carb cleaner, the rpms do drop, but going through and lightly coating every inch from the reeds back to the filters doesn't produce the rpm drop. What are the odds it's pulling some cleaner through the filters and I'm just imagining a leak? Edit: can plugs be read from just an idle? Could I warm it up, put in new plugs and just let it idle for a few minutes and see what they look like?

My 2004 banshee is acting like it has an intake leak, slightly higher than expected idle, idle slowly rises if I bring it down by putting it in gear and forcing it lower. all that. I went ahead and sprayed some carb cleaner and the idle does drop, seems like the area of the right boot. I went ahead and did a leak down, with soapy water sprayed onto the intake to see if I just had a leak at a gasket, or an actual crack in a boot. with 5 PSI in the motor, I couldn't get any bubbles on the intake side of the motor at all. Tomorrow after work I'll take the carbs and boots off for a thorough inspection of the boots, but why would it leak pulling the vacuum, but not leak under pressure. To me the pressure should open the hole more. Any input? Also, the leak isn't very bad at all, pulling the choke out slightly, maybe 1/4 choke or less, makes it run like you'd expect with the choke pulled. Save a post, if I do find a leak in the boot tomorrow, where's a good place to get some? Theres a set on ebay for under $40, but I'm kind of leary on that since FAST has them for 30 each, the quality on the ebay can't be that great. Thanks.

I found this one, http://westtexasatv.com/store-shop/229-thickbox_default/yamaha-banshee-ac-dc-conversion-.jpg which seems to be what I need, and I've the past I've found a diagram showing where this plugs in, so I think I can find that again. If not, I'll pm you. Thanks

Ok, some more digging found a not broken link to floating the ground, I think that will be done before I test, as it looks easy enough.

Larry, using the HIDs that I had from previous experiments was preferred over spending money on LEDs, as then the HIDs would still be not used. So I went that route. I did some looking, maybe I had the wrong search terms, but I couldn't find an answer to my individual question that nothing will be damaged leaving the yellow wire unhooked. Zilla, awesome, thanks for the answer. Jogon, awesome, I'll probably take you up on that. How hard is it to do the floating? Should I just do it before testing so I only pull the flywheel once?