Oldskool83
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Posts posted by Oldskool83
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Coil is shitting the bed. It sounds electrical, OR you main jet has something clogging up in your getting. If your fuel is more then 2 weeks old it better have stabilizer in it for sure.
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Thanks we will check tonight. I can upload a photo tonight of my nose electric set up also. I have no VR, drag harness never used one. I think I ave the ground attached to one of the bolts that run thru my CDI on my aluminum plate under the nose. Maybe that was not the best idea. Will advise and show photos tonight then.
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Update..........My buddy brought it over to my house today after work and it fired right up 1st kick after plugging all connectors back in. We are going to grease up all the connections and water tight tape the seals tomorrow night. I'll give it another another shot when we go again but I am def taking my other trail rig too!
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I run honda hubs atc200x hubs 83-85 or 83-84 atc250r hubs. they bolton and i get to use all my other honda stuff. Plus make me a nice 48" width works for about every trail or hill
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Stator cover is siliconed up with new OEM gasket too. I will see if it starts and runs and starts up again once 100% dry. I will let it dry out a day or 2. Ive replaced, start, wiring harness and coil so far...didn't touch CDI yet.
I thought about doing what you both said and then heat shrinking the connectors yet. I've seen roached out bikes run better lol. Glad I got 2 more machines
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drag harness bought off this site the nice one with factory style connections, no key, no lights, no torrs, no brake switches, just kick and go. Just 3 connectors and kill switch. Starts 3rd kick like normal each time...go ride get some water on the bike runs great. Turn bike off go so start won't start. Water in every connection, let sit 40 mins, fires up 3rd kick.
New coil, new stator, new everything. Bike is grounded. Last time this happened I was 3 miles away from my truck. Wouldn't start back up, not with new plugs or anything spark seemed non existent but it was daylight also.
Just spend last 4 months redoing all electronics again, got 15 mins out of it but I turned the bike off myself it didn't stall or die out.
Nothing is rigged and there is a ton of money in this non performer. I ride in some nasty stuff at times and I kinda need a bike to start bike up, glad i was not 10-12 miles out like I normally go. All my test runs were at my house in dry conditions and it fired back up always after cooling down or a stop.
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Mull engineering shaved and re domed stock head will be good for good reliable power up.
your jetting is good for those pipes. I have the same pipes and jetting on stock carbs.
Predesign air filter and EHS open lid. You do not want to throw any dirt or mud onto pods...pods should only be used in dry only applications. Hell I never even liked pods on street bikes.
Dropping down a tooth in the front or 2 will let you sing in the power band most times.
Boyesen power reeds is all I have ever used with no issues.
May not be the fastest but def funniest ones I've ridden has been to keep it simple.
Stock I was 100% unhappy with the banshee's power, was a joke really. After these few simple mods I was a lot happier.
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JRs cycle shop in Ephrata PA...Owner moved to Florida is all I know...Mechanic, I have a feeling he's still in the area. I went there because I saw tons of bikes, atvs, street bikes and banshees there....and it was 3 miles up the road from me. Shop even had its own race team so I figured it would be legit...BURN!
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Yep...that's basically what happened. A missing screw or two I could understands but more I looked it over more I saw was gone...and it had nothing to do with putting a top end on and making it run.
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Short story, sold a house moved so paid a shop put my top end back on and fix me up to get me running the rest of the year...was a huge fail, no power lost spark etc.
Over winter and with some help of banshee owners I got it all re-fixed since I had a garage and a shop again.
What I needed:
New coil & drag harness (fixed spark)
Re jetted (was too fat) 27.5 pilot and 280 main
Reeds (why a shop thought it was ok to use reeds you could see thru....)
Rebuilt my rebuild carbs (never used double gaskets on bowls....)
New crank case oil and clutch cover gasket (shop did something and it just leaked)
New water pump seal that sealed this time (shop did something and it just leaked)
New plugs (the proper ones)
New engine ice
Mull engineering head mods for pump gas ( while I was in there why not)
New clear fuel line routings and brass fuel filter (stock lines were hook)
Installed overflow and vent hoses on carbs (shop never did it)
Installed choke connection tube (shop used something so sloppy it was about ready to fall off)
Rubber mounted my pipes again (shop stole that shit)
Put all new quick clips on my wheel hubs nuts (shop stole them)
Redid front nose hardware (no clue what happened to my 1st hardware)
Went to a 12T front sprocket for woods
Put in another chain slider (shop stole that too I guess)
So after a cold winter rebuilding 3 machines things I kicked over Saturday....It's night as day difference. My KFX700 ate the banshee before...now the banshee lives up to it's hype which is why I got it.
I am sure It could have more power but for the hills and woods I think it will be just fine....before I could not even power slide the bike with mud lites. I knew something was wrong.
Now I can power slide with the flick of a wrist...so much its turned into spinning out into a 360 at times.
Was it hard...nope. It took hours each night just messing with stuff and ignoring my wife. But now we can ride together in the hills all summer.
Thanks for everyone's help.
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This weeks update unveiled why my one carb was leaking also...so the outer right rear threaded bowl hole does not get tight. I can see why the shop doubled up on the gasket on that side. They all but stripped the threads out of the body of the carb. I now have to find either a M4 helicoil or use a 1/8" screw and place a nut to clamp down the bowl in that corner.
I also decided to fix my new leaking water pump and clutch cover to find they also stripped screws out. I even took the head off to check everything out because I have had to redo everything I asked them to do. Since the head is off I sent it over to MULL engineering to be milled down.
cycle shops will never get bikes of mine again...maybe parts for things I do not have tools to remove or install but they will never get a complete bike again. I'd of had better care taking it to some car mechanic i think.
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year ago a friend bought some OEM replica honda parts from them. We even drove 1.5hrs to see them to get it in time for that weekend. Once getting there the new OEM parts were horrible and he had to buy them. The place is just a massive part out for coal country beat machines. Eastcoast atv is also in bed with mankia38 on ebay who is out there in silver lacks michican buying up all the beat dune banshees to part out.
I know this because I bought a nice non cracked OEM frame off mankia38 but when it came it had bends and 7 cracks. He wanted me to take it to eastcoast atv to swap it out for a frame or have them fix it. I took it to a place i trusted.
These massive part out places are not what everyone thinks....if you bring cash and your dumb then yeah they will about get down on their knees and propose to you.
I have bought more things from Minkia38 then east coast.
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The bike tanks had been flushed before it was built and a new petcock was installed before it was ever run...had 2 hours on the bike. Bike only had about a 1 gallon run thru so far. I do not let fuel sit in my tanks when they are being stored.
Reeds are in and I am going to put it back together this weekend.
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They sell all kind of sizes. I used one about .25" thick in which a 8mm bolt fit thru. Ended up being about the same size grommett used on the air box of my 85 200x. Don't over think it too much man.
Just go there in person pick a size that works for you and buy it. End of story lol.
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I bought a pair or proteck ones and they came with a rubber bushing. If was kinda small to I went to lowes and just bought a rubber grommet and used a longer bolt and bolted to the frame. Problem solved. The oem mounts do not last on bikes.
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New update. Ripped carbs apart and figured I'd check the reeds. So me telling that shop to replace the reeds ended up being lets put new gaskets on them and use the old ones that didn't seal......I never put used reeds on a fresh motor!
The leaking carb at the bowl seal....well it was tight. I cleaned the carbs and thought after having them apart a few times I'd throw on my new gaskets to make sure the gasket was fresh. I went to peal off the old ones and what did I find....they put a new gasket over an old one on one of the carbs. WTF These guys deserve to be out of business!
Even my wife who don't know shit about toys knows you do not double gaskets if ones bad.
New reeds and new gaskets should fix the last of the issues they made for me.
Report back once reeds come in.
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Go to works shock website and look at the catalogue. It tells you eye to eye length for nearly any bike. I think a guy I knew once put LTR shocks on his...but it road like shit, too stiff. Just run OEM shocks or get ones made for your bike. Mine rides like a sofa on wheels and front shocks are factory.
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I put my new drag harness on last night and my new oem coil. Instant bright blue spark. Something must of got pulled in my factory harness since it shit the bed.
Hopeing to install me new carb bowl with the brass overflow tube, re-clean carbs and fire it up. I will report back what I find next.
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mud lites, work is about everything but have a lot of sit bit. Perfect coal country tires.
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Any one you gents upgraded to this drag harness? I got one and its really nice. I noticed I am not sure were to put my ground wire. I use to run it on the old TORR's box location next to the spark plug coil. Also noticed the spark plug coil connection were a little shorter and not confecting unless I turn the spark plug coil 180 degrees. Any issues with that.
I am running the harness between the fuel like OEM location to up front under my hood where my CDI and VR use to be.
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That was not nice. There are sprocket ratio charts on JT's web site where you could figure out where you want to be and go form there.
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I own a banshee and he was gonna build me a arms and swingarm. My frame was there also lol. An arm is easy...I've known him nearly 10 years he does what ever I want. Just ask. If he does not have a arm send him one but I know he has a jig...I saw it. I'm there all the time.
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I bought a +2 round carrier swinger for mine. I didn't like the stock one and I thru it away. It was not much and made decent what trail riding. +2 did make the front end turn harder. I should of prob went +1 but I I just climb coal hills so figure +2 would let me trail ride ok and still play on the hills with no flipping.
The guys name on ebay is 58SSswingarmship. I can not seem to paste the link from my computer.
The swinger ended up being $301.30 powercoaded with bearings and skid plate mounts. My buddy wanted $425 to make the same arm with no bearings. www.hreatv.com
If your not racing this swing arm will be fine since its twice as thick as stock.
If I were racing or gonna dune and jump way high I would want a round stock swinger and square tube will crack.
Just depends what your doing. If your an internet arm chair racer then only buy the most expensive parts lol
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I relocated my stuff all upfront under the nose on a aluminum plate I fabbed up. CDI and coil at the rear where stuff is kicked up was a dumb idea. Running pipes thru frame next to wires and an air box was another nightmare waiting to happen.
All it takes it flipping the bike to bent the rear pipes to lay on your wires...and anyone buying a used bike these days knows everyone has been flipped at least once.
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strange looking front end?
in Suspension
Posted
$500 is a hell of a deal if you want to spend another $1500 + on one lol There are no good deals with cheap banshees, all are used and abused big time. Toeing front tires means some moron before you didn't adjust the steering tie rods correctly...i see this all the time with kids who try and eye ball things calling it" they build it"