JasonB

I like the SLP pipes a lot but they seem to be more suited for stroked ported motors. I have been reading like crazy the last 15 days since i decided i wanted to buy my first banshee but theres so much info to sort through with all the pissing contests people get into and thread derailments

thats just it, i dont mind buying a set and then selling them for a better flowing set if/when i upgrade for more power. Its only a couple hundred bucks so its not going to break the bank, plus these pipes seem to keep their value. I wish there was more info around here about pipes when it came to performance, seems like most of the posts on here about pipes are based on opinion rather than facts. Im all for butt dyno comparisons, but im sure most people on here have only run 2 or 3 different pipes at most. i dont know, just looking for some ideas since most of you guys started somewhere with your banshees.

I went through 5 pages on this "JETTING AND EXHAUST" subforum back to Spring of this year reading threads but I didn’t find a decent straight answer to my question. Thought I’d just post up and get some new opinions on a good exhaust to start with. I have a bone stock 06 Banshee that I’m planning to do pipes, jets, pod filters, TORS delete, cool head with 21cc domes, 4 degrees timing advance, welded crank with stock stroke/stock bore, stock unported cylinders, and a few other little things I’m forgetting. Basically squeezing more out of the stock motor without doing a 4mil/port work/pro-mod tranny and making it into an 80hp monster before I get the chance to enjoy my first Banshee. Trying to bump the power up but keep it a good all around bike I can ride anywhere, at least until I get bored and want more power. What would you guys suggest as a good pipe for that lightly modified set up above? Search results here on BHQ usually turn up old threads where people recommend the Toomey pipes which appear to be pretty universally hated now. Looking for a good midrange/all around pipe I don’t have to ring this motors neck at high rpm's constantly to get usable power from. I’m coming from a heavily ported/modified CR500 powered bike that I could lug around anywhere at low RPM’s and I kind of like not having to rev the piss out of a motor. I ride mostly dunes and trails (not much drags or MX). I consider myself to be an intermediate skill level rider and I am 245lbs 6' tall just fyi. I would like a pipe that gets me some decent power in the lower rpm range if possible, just an upgrade above what stock pipes offer I guess. Fuck did I just describe a dream pipe that doesn’t exist?! Tried to keep the thread straight forward with my question here but i can ad more info if that helps. On a side note, why haven’t any bigger shops with dynos run back to back comparisons on the same motor with the dozen+ different pipes available? Any vendor that did that would be able to push certain pipes a lot easier with dynograph comparisons for damn sure.

its got a bunch of fancy parts. pulleys/heads/headers/102mm throttlebody /4.5"intake/ported snout and supercharger/850 injectors/ice box/heat exchanger/cam. Theres more little stuff but its a well rounded set up. I was looking to swap from the 9.1 lower pulley to an 8.6, install bigger injectors and fuel pumps, and retune for e85. Its set up for 93 pump gas currently and i have a seperate tune for race gas without spray. I have been a best of 10.6@137mph with a shitty 1.8 60'. With that mph i should be low 10's but i have only been to the track once since i owned the car.

thanks for the comments guys, i love this car. Surprises the shit out of people. Its fun to roll through parking lots and have people looking all around trying to figure out what car the rumble is coming from The stock trannys are pretty stout. They usually need some freshening up with regular 800+ rwhp abuse but this one and many like it have seen some serious shit hahah. People are out there pushing high 900rwhp range on stock tranny's. The strock bottom end, stock tranny, and stock rear end are all pretty resilient believe it or not

Ya I go in cycles between car and ATV projects. Generally good wide open into an ATV project or car for 6-12 months then sell everything off and rotate back to the other hobby lol. Fixations man. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Saw a spot on here to share car/truck pics so i thought i'd throw a few up. Here is my '11 V. It makes 725rwhp on 93 pump gas and 840rwhp on a 100 shot. Lots of good videos on my youtube page of me dig/roll racing other stupid fast cars if you're into that junk cold start video. look through my videos on youtube for racing stuff if you're into that kinda thing burn out from the photo shoot above

hey thanks man, i had it listed on 3ww and on the ATC500R page i made on facebook. Still not sure what to do with that page since its got 1600+ members and i no longer own a 500 haha. Ya i love the R's, weird to be making the jump from Honda to Yamaha

I will get the brakes and just sell off the master and lines I guess. I need longer brake lines for the Alba arms I'm looking to buy. And no need for the pro taper, I have a set of fasst Flexx bars in the garage ready to go on. Thanks for the input

thats my reasoning behind doing it at all. I thought i saw you or one of the other frequent posters on here mention the 2007 MC being a big piece to the puzzle on getting the most out of this upgrade, didnt know if it was worth doing since these have the 06 master cylinder. meh.

i searched around and got some great info on this subject but was unable to find a specific answer on one thing. My brother has a YFZ he's parting out and is going to give me the front brakes. They bolt on and are an upgrade since they are dual piston calipers from what i learned here on BHQ. Supposed to be a nice upgrade, but i read here that if its not 07 or newer the master cylinder is basically the same one we have on our banshees. The brakes my brother has for me are 06. Is that even worth putting on the bike or will it still be a noticeable upgrade since the calipers are better? I already have ASV levers on the bike and will be upgrading to some longer SS lines when i do the Alba arms and Elkas this month but i am excited to throw some mods at this bike i just bought

thanks guys. i like wrenching and the bottom line was if i bought one of the 5K or 6K monsters in the sale section i was still going to fork out another 1K or so in cosmetics to get a stock set of uncut plastics, seat cover, and other small items to get it to look the way i want. I dumped over 10k on my cr500 powered 250R build up last year. i dont mind spending money and im particular about how i like my bikes to look when they are 'finished'. Here's the 250r and the 500r i built in 2013 and last year. big bore 250R 500R

the bike is pretty tore up. that was one of the big reasons i passed on it.

Price was right. I'm fine spending more money in the long run, I have a lot to learn about these bikes and id rather put something together than buy someone else's build.

i really appreciate all the advice guys. I passed on this bike and a bunch of others based off what you all suggested. The SS and few other really nice bikes in the For Sale section here are just a little more than i could sneak past my wife for a purchase at one time. I have built up a handful of other bikes and really like watching things come together. I went to look at a single owner 2006 SE bike tonight and ended up bringing it home. Its totally stock down to the fuckin pipes and carbs. Stock bore, stock stock stock. Upgraded clutch and aftermarket wheels/tires plus some ASV levers but otherwise its unmolested. Going to dig into it with a leak down and compression test tomorrow to see if i want to go 4mill before we drive out to Glamis in February. Feels decent powerwise but i imagine after 9 years it could use some freshening up. Came with paperwork and a stack of receipts for all labor and parts the Yamaha dealer did. Going to order up the Elka Stage3 suspension and +2+1 a arms next week. Fenders need some clean up and im going to pull the factory purple flame decals but not going to cut my plastics or bastardize this bike beyond suspension and some basic hp upgrades over time. The black plastics are my favorite color scheme. If the leak down and compression tests arent pretty i will start looking at porting, cool heads, timing plates, pipes, carbs, etc. Thanks again for the input guys im stoked to have this bike

im no stranger to shipping bikes i just wanted to be able to look at it in person before i fork out a few grand to a complete stranger. I shipped a bike out from Phoenix last spring that paid $2K for before the $400 shipping. I was anticipating spending 2K on a bike and another 1300 on new suspension. I dont need a monster just a strong base to start with

ITEM DESCRIPTION: Fresh LRD build bored and ported cylinders, Noss cool head, new true and welded crankshaft, full Hinson 8-plate clutch basket, hub and pressure plate, lock-up cover, pro-design water pump, pro-mod transmission, lightened flywheel and adjustable timing plate, 2-1 intake with 39mm carb and k&n filter, and T-5 pipes and silencers. Run great, just need to make room in the garage.

These pics didn't upload on my original post. Guy claims he has some proof of the motor and tranny work. Normal reason for selling I see everywhere "no time to ride anymore"

There are a some great bikes in the for sale section and on craigslist but they are all either 5+ hrs away,too much money, or the sellers don't respond to my texts and emails. 70% of the local bikes on craigslist are over priced for one reason or another. The ones I like the sellers don't fucking respond or they sold their shit and the ads still posted.

Budget is trying to stay under 5k right now, I keep increasing it as I shop lol. I want a decent base to start with. I want a Fucking title and a bike that's not beat to shit. I was looking to spend about 2-2500 on bike and another 1300 in suspension mods. I ride trails occasionally and the major time my new banshee will see will be little shara and Glamis in California. I like dunes. I don't want a drag bike, just a good all around rider with decent power

Buying my first banshee, there's a few locally but this one has my attention because of the built tranny and other mods. I understand the single carb and t5 pipes aren't popular on here from what I'm told. Here's the ad and some pics with info he sent me. Honestly considering it. The other one I really like is an 06 black SE bike totally stock aside from pipes and jets for 3500 OBO. This ones 2500 but no title and subframe is tweaked. Otherwise I'm kinda leaning towards picking it up this weekend. What do you guys think? Netflix and chill? http://stlouis.craigslist.org/snw/5331437913.html Guy also has a vf3 reed set up, stock carbs and a set of 34mm carbs. The sub frame is tweaked as you can see which is a turn off but the mods it has make me really consider it. He said the lock up cover has a leak which I don't know how big of a deal that is. The brake lever touching the clutch cover is weird, does that look normal or is something fucky there? **disclaimer*** I would be pulling the flag decals and swapping the seat cover , I like white fenders and plain seats Larger Sig pick as 'thanks for the advice'

new to banshee's, i have about 4 bikes locally i am seriously considering buying but was wondering about transmissions. I have seen a fair amount of the banshees for sale that have cut /uncut trannys, lock up this that and the other, rebuilt trannys. Do Banshees have issues with the transmissions? For some reason i thought cut and lock up transmissions were more for just racing not all around riding and dunning. One of the 4 bikes has a pro-mod tranny. All these terms seem like pricey tranny work, but now im thinking i need to find one already built up instead of the stock w pipe/jets bikes i was originally shopping for. WTF am i supposed to be shopping for here

Fucking awesome thank for the help! Just ran through that page, and the valving stuff is badass. Gives you choices and preferences even asks about rider weight. Is it safe to assume the 'dune' riding under valving set up would be more for crushing smooth sand or are all their valving options going to handle some hardcore bumps on occasion? Some trips out to Glamis and to little Sahara in Oklahoma have been nightmarish when the sands are choppy. Tempted to select the xc/trail valving so it's able to handle rough terrain

That's just front end stuff right? After reading rear shock reviews I feel brainwashed on the idea that the factory rear shock is junk. Amirite