bluebanshee7

I just changed my spark plug in the left jug and she started right up and ran nice and even on both sides. Idled great....after it warmed up a bit the rpms started going up on and back down on their own and I noticed quit a bit of oil around the front side of the jugs where the exhaust goes. Its enough oil to be dripping a little bit. Also just by listening to my exhaust, you can hear the ping on one side and on the other side it would come and go. Could it be too much oil? Or maybe I let my gas settle too long and didn't shake it enougn? Any ideas?

Long story short I rebuilt my shee. Did everything the right way. Got her started and started doing the break in process, few things went wrong like air leaks here and there that I fixed and then I had to replace my clutch adjuster with a chariot one. After all the nonsense I finally got her running again and was riding around my block and it seems that my left cylinder isn't putting out much power... if you feel the pressure coming out of the exhaust, the left side has weak pressure compared to the right side. When riding you can tell I don't have much power but it still rips a little. Any ideas what could have happened? Air leak maybe?

Cool I'll order that one thanks Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

This one? Or will one off eBay be fine?

Wow that explains it thanks Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I'm pretty sure I do unless there suppose to be another nut on the outside? Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I'm pretty sure I do Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Also how do I clock the pressure plate?

It was my clutch adjuster...is this something I can put lock tite on bcuz it's really slipper and rotates easily?

Clutch not engaging*** Rebuilt my shee and finally got it running right. Been trying to get though the break in process and something new keeps popping up. Was riding my shee in 1st and 2nd gear and was shifting fine...waited 2 hours now my clutch lever is completely flopping around. It still pulls the cable but with no tension at all. Everything on the outside looks right...could it be the clucth adjusting screw inside the clutch case came loose from riding it?? Any ideas would be great Thanks

I could of sworn I saw someone use rtv in a video. I'll have to take it off and get a new gasket and do leak test again

I don't know the dome size. I think there's a way to measure them. But I'm sure they are either 21 or 22cc

Okay so I rebuild my banshee to stock after frying a crank bearing. Only upgrade is FMF pipes. 27.5 pie 280 main uni air filter in airbox fresh plugs Did a leak test and found a small leak between my reed cage gasket. Fixed the problem and had no other leaks. Got the shee started and let it run a little. Let her cool down over night and was going to start the break in process the next day. Started first kick today, ran it at idle for 10-15 min, let it cool for 2 hours, went to start it and couldn't get it started. It almost starts up but never runs. Any ideas? I used a bit of rtv between the gasket that is on the carb side of the reed cage. When I pulled my plugs to check them there was 2 pieces of rtv around the plug. Could the rtv maybe be getting lodged between my reeds or messing something up? Could possibly clog my carbs?

I have spark and I put the gasket on both sides of the reed cage. I built my leak tester the other day, I just made it with the wrong size pvc so I just have to add one size smaller and I can do my leak test. I'll let you know results.

I felt under my reed cages where the gasket is and there's alot of fuel under there. I have a gasket going from the reed cage to the jugs but don't have a gasket going from the reeds to the carb side. Do I need a gasket there?

Rebuilt my shee back to stock with fmf pipes. Has 280 main and 27.5 pilot. When I turn my gas on and kick it a bunch of times it wants to start but never does. I tried starter fluid and drained the carbs a couple times. When I drain my carbs I feel like it has alot of gas in there. Could they be flooding as soon as I turned the gas on? Also after all the kicking my plugs aren't wet at all. They are brand new plugs so should they be wet? Any othe ideas why this thing wouldn't be starting??

Pmed

Yes I do. It's in my parts for sale post Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Boost bottle Cool head. Rough shape. Offer? Comes with brand new set of o-rings Jugs. Right has slight crack/bend in the sleeve. Bored .5 over. 150$ Rear bumper. $40 shipped Renthal bars. $25 shipped Fmf pipes. Rough shape/rusted. offer? Tried to weld a patch. Clearly I can't weld. Stock crank w/ no lower connecting rod bearing. Doesn't come with any gears. Nice shape other than the missing bearing. You can see there's no bearing here Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I didn't even read the names on who posted. I thought zilla said "40 shipped?" I think 60 is even a fair price, they nice bars.

Okay sounds good. And I got rid of the boost bottle and just installed my new cross over tube tonight. The motor is pretty fresh right now so hope the leak test goes well. Thanks for your help appreciate it

I ripped the whole motor apart and put everything back to stock. New jugs. New pistons. Stock head with stock domes. New crank. New seals. New bearings. And have a fresh set of fmf pipes coming in the mail. I have all the parts to build a leak down tester so I plan on doing that after its back together. I ordered the 27.5 pilot jets too. Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Just took my pilots out and they were stock too. So that means that when I first bought this I had fmf pipes, bored sleeves and a cool head running 310 mains and 25 pilots... could that be the reason this thing fried a piston?