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Everything posted by Mrtaterman
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Had a similar issue when i bought my bike, climbing sand mtn it would have power, but wouldnt rev high, turned out i was pretty lean.
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i still have stock carbs w/ tors. should i upgrade
Mrtaterman replied to Mrtaterman's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
thanks guys! that was exactly what i was looking for. ill be buying the delete kit within the week, any brand recomendations? -
i still have stock carbs w/ tors. should i upgrade
Mrtaterman replied to Mrtaterman's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
thats kind of what i was thinking, i am on rmatv looking for the delete kit now, at what point will i need bigger carbs, i plan on going throught the engine pretty in depth this winter, plan on cylinder bore/hone and port work. -
my 98 banshee has fmf fatty sst gold exhaust, vforce 4 reeds, stock carbs with tors @ roughly 5,000 ft. 310 main jets, 30 pilots, aftermarket needs with 6 slots, im on the 4th down. whenever there is talk about my banshee from people i meet at the dunes, they are amazed i still have stock carbs especially since it still has tors. are there issues i am unaware of with these carbs? i havent had any issues. and i was planning on upgrading them, but right now they work great. if its not broke dont fix it, right? or should i really consider upgrading them? thanks and happy 4th!
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this is hard to read
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replaced clutch with gummed up cable.
Mrtaterman replied to Mrtaterman's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
really, it was more out of curiosity than anything else. i know that it was the incorrect way of doing it. -
replaced clutch with gummed up cable.
Mrtaterman replied to Mrtaterman's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
after i replaced the cable it was on the left of the arrow on the case. twisted the nut on the lever to line it up, but there is still alot of travel before it grabs. when i did my clutch on my old warrior it grabbed alot sooner so thats what i am comparing it to. different bike so it could be totally wrong though -
replaced my clutch with a gummed up cable because it grabbed at the very very end of my lever travel. so i bought a clutch kit with heavier springs, adjusted it and it was god awful to pull. took off my clutch cable and i couldnt even pull it with my hands it was so tight and replaced it and it is worlds better. my question is, where should the screw on my lever be when i adjust my clutch. all the way in or about middle i was thinking but its just an assumption. i have tried finding in older posts but had no luck. if i take my case apart i would just like to do it one more time.
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my banshee seat was very lumpy, figured the old owner did a shotty job installing the 'ceet cover' and my foam is in very bad shape, does anyone have a plain black, or black and yellow banshee seat for sale?
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There's my 98 bought it completely stock in April. Now has pipes, vforce 4 reeds, itp sand stars. 450 killer haha
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Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
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Any aftermarket lights that appear factory-ish?
Mrtaterman replied to Mrtaterman's topic in General Banshee Discussion
i have some kc daylighters that are also 55w each, i would like to upgrade my stator anyways so that is a definate option. been lookin at a ricks stator, as well as moose. any other recomendations? -
i am running 14-42 on my banshee. i like it alot but i only ride on the sand, or racing up sand mountain (edited, just went and counted)
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wth is my problem, i have been told it could be my clutch, clutch lever adjustment, stretched clutch cable causing adjustment to be wrong, foot lever in wrong place. i suspect clutch because i just replaced it, adjusted it so the arrows aligned, but when i let out on my clutch lever it grabs nearly fully disengaged, maybe my clutch cable is in fact stretched causing it to be out of adjustment?
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poor starting when cold ( why )
Mrtaterman replied to jscharphorn's topic in General Banshee Discussion
mine had that issue. pilot jet was issue, had to go up to 30 from 27.5 now it starts in 3 kicks or less cold -
its coryv4
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so the gearing is 14-43, so 3 teeth larger in the rear, the original owner gave me spare parts and there was a 40t rear sprocket, so i am assuming that one is stock, what would you try for gearing? if i were to hang on to these 10p haulers do you think that with what i want to do my shee the 10p haulers will be alright to run then?
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98_sheester thanks, but i always have had best luck with haulers, and i am probably going to stick with those, but if nothin happens ill get back to ya right now i am using my brothers 22" 8 paddle straight blade (idk the brand) and lots of the times i have to stand up, lean forward and get weight off the back tires or it will bog the engine and kill it, but thats mostly if im starting out on any sory of incline. im a big guy, 6'5" 250lb i am also new at riding this thing, so it could very well just be me.
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like the title said, i have 10 paddle haulers 22x11x10 that i had used on my previous quad, they worked great on that but are wayy too much for my stock shee. i just got a trade offer for a set of 20x10x10 7 paddle haulers. i plan on keeping my bike fairly stock, just toomeys, toomey 2-1 air filter, and reeds. now i am curious is you guys think 7 paddles would be too little paddle? i just ride your usual dunes, bowls and lots racing my brother and friends up sand mountain (ut)
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hey question, the banshee i bought came with works "at steeler" duel rate shocks and they don't seem to have any damping. i can feel any little bump and when the sand it really chopped up it damn near rips the handlebars out of my hand. my brothers 450 with the same shocks feels absolutely amazing and, i was wondering if anyone has had experience with recharging them with nitrogen, or am i better off just sending them in to works and having them redone for my weight.
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mine had this issue when i first bought it, combination of fuel petcock and jetted incorrectly, bigger pilot was biggest improvement on starting it. no more push starting or kicking untill i was about to have a heart attack