Ayesully810
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Posts posted by Ayesully810
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fwiw ive ran AB and genuine keihin jets with no issues, but i only run keihins because psychologically it bothers me. id stick to genuine like said above.
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you need a clymers manual. then look up clutch installation to clear up confusion
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when you rev it and the rpms hang instead of idle down
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just keep the pcs my gosh lol
they are good pipes, you likely wont feel much power difference going from the pcs to the slps and slps will have less rev to them and you WILL feel it in wide open stuff. Good pipes for the right type of riding. Not that pcs are a high reving pipe either but they get a few more turns than the slps. you over thinking this
also how much are you riding around idling who cares what it sounds like before the powerband, if you are riding it right youill be in the power band, not farting it around in 2nd gear
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oh word. no idea then.
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im assuming its like a banshee with a gear on the other end which runs off a water pump gear on the crank, id imagine it would be hard to turn, it would be like trying to rotate the crank by using the impellar am i right?
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4 hours ago, the boris said:
I wouldn't agree,to assemble- yes,to tune-no. If you make mistake with 4 stroke when tuning,only drawback is loss of power, with two stroke you do the same and you are into costly rebuild.
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I would say that only applies to people who dont know how to tune and what to look for in determining if tuning is correct or not, those are the peeps that will run stock jets in a modded bike and then blow it up and say banshees are finicky tune. If you take your time do your research on tuning and be patient you can ride it for 1 minute and know what needs to be changed. jmo.
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On 11/13/2019 at 7:40 PM, sheerider11 said:
It only takes 1 ride on a yfz450r to realize you need one. Especially a well sorted one.
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what year do I want? carb or injected? i dont wanna spend 5 k
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11 minutes ago, sheerider11 said:
Tony is one if the main reasons this site gets so much traffic.
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it must be my avatar picture
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yeah something like that. where in MI are you what city
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I knew nothing when i joined on here 4 years ago. and now....well according to some I still know nothing.
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sweet,
120 -130 depending on elevation for stock motor with no compression mods. as far as break in steel sleeve is supposedly different than plated cylinders. plated you can break them in hard, but steel sleeve you are suppose to do a couple cycles or something like that then baby it a bit the first ride, then hammer down. idk much about break ins
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21 hours ago, Canadianshee said:
Lol put more seat time than Jessie. Everything is for sale for a price.
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dont bait me in like that, dawg
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same time. if you do a half turn on left one, do a half turn on the right one. Give it a few seconds to sync then blip the throttle. Once the idle starts hanging a bit, youve found your highest point. Ill usually turn the af screw in a half turn at that point and the idle hang should go away. If you end at at only a Half turn out on each carb, a size bigger should put you at the perfect pilot jet size.
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2 hours ago, Canadianshee said:
Still for sale. Cant beat it for a start.
Please view this ad:
Perfect Banshee,
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-atv/calgary/perfect-banshee/1469646113?
Dont mind RRL. Prob just had a mouthful of coffee grinds. If you really want a big bore I may know where there is a 10mil sitting.
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already? you havent even got a chance to abuse it yet lol
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i would check compression if I were you just to be safe, I wouldnt trust china pistons.. clean carbs, could be a clogged pilot jet . both pipes should still get hot at Idle even if carb sync is off slightly, but clearly you want to fix that before riding it.
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where did you buy your parts (what kind of pistons) im assuming you meant piston rings, both rings are the same should be. just an fyi, you could have kept posting in your old thread you already made. do both pipes get warm? stock jets? whats the temps where you are at?
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just keep your pro circuits and put them back on and be done with this
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leak down test test for air leaks that can cause lean air fuel ratios and potentially burn a motor down, would have to be a big leak to do that but none the less you want to try to eliminate as much leaking as possible.
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where are you located ? and how much you want
x2 on epistein didnt kill himself
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only reason coolant would leak into the chamber is either from A. the water jacket plugs not being installed properly on the bottoms of the cylinders, or B. into the chamber VIA the domes o rings (if you have a cool head or head with int. domes) or you got a cheap crap head gasket.
did you pressure test motor after rebuild to see if there were any air leaks?
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go to the dyno room thread forum. they are great pipes. toomeys do not pull. sure they are loud (imo as loud as shearers if not louder in some cases) but i had a stock bike when them and they didnt pull worth a crap.
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pretty sure thats a driveline head. they are good. wouldnt waste money buying something else that is literally going to have no benefit except say "pro design" on the side of it, and a million more o rings to boot. do as you wish just my cents
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why does it looks cheap?
looks like a driveline head to me. They are good heads, made in the good ole usa and function the way they should.
btw make sure you are running BR8ES plugs idk whats up with the plugs that are in that one pictured
i have a buddie thinking of starting to make extended j arm
in Suspension
Posted
hopefully this doesnt turn into a THACKER situation