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Ayesully810

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Posts posted by Ayesully810

  1. pump it to 6 psi, THEY (who ever they are) says that if you lose more than 1 psi after the 6 mins then re seal things.  there is no reason to have it hold the air over night.  most motor have little leaks especially around the intakes, ive ran stuff with little leaks around the intakes and it didnt blow my motor up.  btw idk how they determined the 1 minute to be the gold standard for air loss during that test.  ive had blaster intakes be really hard to seal before but it was because of the surface on the rubber intake. 

  2. how much do you lose after 6 mins? if its still holding around 5 psi after 6 mins just run it.  as far as sealing if you want to be super anal about it, put rtv on all 4 gasket surface faces. clean everything real good first, should do the trick. 

  3. max bore is like 66.50 but youd need to know where you are at now and jsut bore to the next size.   list of sponsors who do lots of porting and are good

    fast

    driveline

    redline

    macdaddy 

    hjr 

    claudemachining 

    take your pick and call them and tell them what you are looking to do and they will take care of you

  4. 1 hour ago, SKEETER said:

    Ya, suspension dont matter when you drag race.  🙄

    a lot of guys just run struts on their bikes you really think stock suspension is really going to make that much of a difference just playing around drag racing with friends???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? also i know nothing about drag racing so i have zero credibility so keep that in mind. 

  5. 2 hours ago, kawa110 said:

    Chances of the motor being seized up twice and freed with oil are slim. It could happen but that thing must have ran like crap. Unless it wasn’t seized and something Jammed up the idler gear and Kickstarter.
    Either way I’m sure ther is a million hours in that engine and it could use some love.

    ditto this.  once you truly seize, you done.  There is something going on, on the left side of the motor.  check your compression. that will let you know how sad your top end is.  Use a good quality compression tester with a threaded part the same depth as the spark plug.  take both plugs out,  hold throttle wide open then kick the crap out of it 30 times and see what it reads. 

  6. what is your compression at? id imagine at 3k with 21cc domes you are at around 140? 

    I would drop your pilot to a 27.5 and check where your needle position is at you might need to lean the clip out. 300 is safe probably a tad on the rich side depending on how hot or cold it is you could probably run a 280-290 main jet.   But you wont need a 30 pilot with just pipes and being at higher elevation.   Higher elevation means less air/fuel ratio, the less air you have, the less fuel you need. 

  7. 42 minutes ago, coleman66six said:

    Well, I decided to pull the filters off and look in the carbs, the slides never get stuck. But I did notice the idle screws were off quite a bit from each other. So I adjusted them so they were even and I have not had the problem since, Idk if this fixed it or something else, but yea.

    carb sync tool works well to sync carbs at idle together, its the most accurate way.  I only use the tool to sync them at idle part throttle you can basically eye it. 

    if its staying idled up like that for 1-3 seconds, and there are no air leaks, reeds are good and cable is fine, run your air fuel screw all the way in, then put it at a half turn out, see if that helps, stock pilot? 25

  8. i stored a banshee engine in a shed with no covering like an idiot back in my rookie banshee days when i was 20 and when i pulled it back out to re asemble, there was a rats nets in the crank case ( stored with cylinders off) i shoved a shop vac in there sucked it all out, then dumped premix  in there and used a rag to floss the crap out of everything with oil. ran like a champ for a long time after that. 

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