dgk30

Thanks for the advice guys, i took the carbs out to check my jetting and needle placement, I have FMF fattys, K&N filter and bored 40 over. Jetting is 30 pilot, 300 main, and needle clip is second to bottom position. I am going to check coil and stator next.

So I went riding in the dunes for the first time after a top end rebuild on one of my banshees. Kind of hard to explain but the problem was that the bike would get to a certain point where the rpm's would just hang in one spot and not climb anymore even with more throttle, happened when I would hill climb, still had power to get all the way up but it's like half way up the hill the bike would stop reving higher and the Rpms would hang in one spot, like it had nothing left and it wasn't even revving that high it was about half to 3/4 throttle or so. This would happen on the flats as well but was extra annoying on the hill climb. Ran nothing like my other banshee, not sure what is wrong. Any ideas?

I just thought of this, I think it was running fine when It had gear oil in it, since I drained the gear oil this issue has happened, (was working on carbs while I was waiting to get new gear oil, that's why i started it with out the oil) finally went and got gear oil and plan to refill today but would not having gear oil make any difference on how it idles? Didn't think it would but maybe it helps seal somehow? Just trying to thik of anythng and everything.

I have not yet done a leak test, I'll have to build the leak tester that was on here awhile back, as for the electrical, the only thing I have done was check to make sure I have spark, and I have spark on both sides. I will try to dig into the possibly of an electrical issue

So I am completely stumped at this point. My banshee wasnt running on the right cylinder and also revving really high uncontrolably whern i pushed the choke in, so I swapped reeds and carbs with my other banshee, swapped coils, checked for spark, made sure the choke connector tube was in place, made sure the slides were correct, and did compression test finally I found the reason, compression was very low on the right so I decided to rebuild the top end. New cylinders freshly bored, honed, and decked, with wiseco pro lites, new gaskets, everything is properly torqued. Engine fired right up.....again ony on the left cylinder....extremely heartbreaking. I have no idea what to do at this point, if anybody knows someone in the Grand haven, MI /Silver lake,MI area who can take a look at this or if you can tell me what else to check it would be appreciated.Thanks

Yeah when I said intake I meant the airbox, I just ruled out a carb or fuel issue, I took the right side carb out of my other banshee that is running great and jetted the same and outfit on this one as well as replaced the fuel line with clear fuel line. Resulted in the same issue I saw fuel was making it to both carbs and still not firing on the right side. I am going to rent a compression tester and check compression tonight. I am betting I somehow lost compression on the right side or I had an inaccurate reading the first time. Leak down will be next IF I find I have good compression

The other odd thing is that when I unplugged the cold side spark plug boot while it was idling, it shut down. I would assume that if it was only running on the one side it wouldn't make a difference if I unplugged the spark on the side I don't think is firing. Stumped

Yes the slide cut out is on the intake side of both carbs

Yes when I did the tors delete I made sure to file far enough, I had that problem in the past with another bike

Carbs are freshly rebuilt and I have a good crossover tube

So I have a banshee that I have not really ridden yet since I bought it (it ran when I bought it) I bought 2 and I've been riding one and gettig this one set up the way I want. Anyway I went to start it up after getting the tors delete on it and I am only running on one cylinder (choke side) only getting exhaust out of that side, the other pipe stays cold. I have spark on both cylinders, I switched out plugs, and I swapped the reeds and nothing changed. I did a compression test this past fall and I had 120psi in each cylinder, the bike hasn't been started or really touched since then so I am unsure how I could have lost compression. I don't have a tester right now but putting my thumb over each and kicking, they both feel the same I will do another actual test in the next day or two. What do you guys think? should I put new rings in? Also this may or may not be a related problem but while its idling, If I push in the choke it starts revving uncontrollably and I have to kill switch it.

In need of a rear brake caliper, doesn't need to be in the greatest shape just has to work, if you have one let me know. Thanks

What silencers are those with the fattys? Are they spark arrested?

Looking for some pipes on a budget that would be decent on a dune bike, fattys, SST, T5's, etc... But I really need something that comes with spark arrested silencers so no power core 2's. Condition isnt a big deal as I will most likely paint black unless you have a chrome set in good condition. Let me know what you have!

I have two banshees, one I ride and one I am working on getting ready for next year. The one I ride has a set of T5's and I've always had T5's so that's all I know. On this one I am putting together I need to decide on a set of pipes, my question is how will fmf gnarly's affect the ride. I take my bikes to the dunes quite often and was looking to get a cheaper set of pipes for this one and was thinking of gnarly's or fatties, I do trail ride every once in awhile or ride a track now and then. My question is will the gnarly's really hurt the power in the dunes? I've never had a bottom end pipe on a banshee so I am wondering how badly it will affect it. I wouldnt mind a little extra bottom end but if it really takes away from that necessary top end in the sand then maybe not. If you have experienced both types of pipe, Let me know if it's a big enough difference that I will really notice it.

Yeah I do like the simple stock color with a little bit extra like some extra gloss or pearl to the grey. I think I might go with a littlw darker than stock grey with a little gloss and pearl to it. I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything you all had done that was awesome. I do like the lime green look though so I have some decision making to do, thanks for all the ideas

Really? Where did you get this idea? I dont believe ive said anything other than replying with a laugh to the guys that gave purposely funny answers. You come into this thread just to say something like that.....hmmm wonder who the A hole is. Guess only a few people care to help a guy pick a color. Thanks to those that did give me some good input.

I dont know about this, you guys are way too fancy for me. Pretty sure I cant afford sky blue pink and the primer grey well, thats off the charts custom and Im not sure I can afford it either

Well its almost that time of year where the top end rebuild will start and I will be stripping the bike to have the frame powdercoated. I cant seem to figure out what color I want, My banshee has blue plastics as you can see from the pic below. I was thinking maybe gunmetal or a little darker and glossier than stock but not sure, I really want to get a custom look. Please post pics of the color scheme you went with under your blue plastics. Thanks!

Thanks, I think I will also throw in some 300 mains, I am doing a dune trip this weekend and would rather it be on the rich side

Thanks a lot tricked, I will try a new pilot jet tonight, now as far as the needle did you mean put the shorter gold needle in at the second clip from the bottom?

2001 banshee, Toomey T5's, Stock airbox with no lid and a K&N clampled to a pro flow plate, boysen Rad cages with I believe the carbon reeds, Cool head, no idea on dome size just bought the bike. running dominator oil mixed 32:1, premium fuel. 280 mains 25 pilots needle clip 4th from the top (also see picture, the needles that are in it are significantly longer than the ones that came in my stock rebuild kit, maybe thats my problem?) elevation here is roughly 700ft above sea level I believe Let me know if there is anything I missed.

No I always turn it off when it's on the truck or in the garage

I am having an issue staring my banshee when it hasnt been started in a couple days. It will not stat no matter what until I spray a bit of carb cleaner in the carbs then she fires right up first kick and will run without issue the rest of the day, even restarting later in the day is first kick, then if I travel with it or let it sit for a day the problem starts again, Ive started just keeping carb cleaner with be because thats the only way I can get it to kick over on the first start of the day. Ive cleaned the carbs twice, the float height is correct, and the bowls are filling up properly, every time I take them off they are full. Its as if the bike has trouble drawing gas at first, once its there its fine. Anny help is appreciated.

So I took a ratchet strap to the carrier to pull it towards the frame and got it close enough to take the two links out and put the master link back in. I've got a decent amount of play when I'm on the bike about an inch to inch to inch and a half, I think I should be good, thanks for checking hopped, I'm about in the same spot. Now to put a case saver on just in case.