AZBIKE_460

Motoseal is not the same as yamabond, very very close but not quite the same. I personally would use yamabond or Honda bond. They have always sealed cases very well for me and hold up over time and as well as any fuel you want to use. The yamabond works GREAT as a gasket dressing as well. All the greys will work but Yamaha/hondabond are a bit more reliable over time in my experience but surface prep is key key key.

A great alternative to chrome or raw pipes is to use gun blue. Looks really good and protects from corrosion then when you go to burn out the carbon just re blue it. if you run a pretty rich mixture of castor plus leaded fuel I get a TON of carbon build up in the expansion cone/header bad so I frequently clean my pipes. Just a little trick for old school/factory pipe look and easy to maintain for running castor n leaded if you need it. If not then it's still a great unique look and function

I will once I have the money and these jugs are worn out. I would rather run 33's but i got the 36's for free. I know for the pipes the 36's will lack a little on the bottom but after talking with an extremely knowledgable guy about my set up we came to the conclusion that if the carbs are tuned right they should be just fine for now until I find someone with 33's in the same condition that would be willing to trade.

Been running 9 paddle skat trak edges for a while and I love em for all around riding. Either that or 10 paddle version, I also like the haulers. I like to run em on 8" rims, I have the edges on 10" wheels and I hate how the wheel will cut in to the sand and it just doesn't absorb the choppy stuff like 8" wheels will. Both sets seem to hook up just fine though.

That's seems to be the only way to go. They come with bigger ports for the big bore no? Idk I got a while before these jugs are worn out. Biggest thing I was worried about was the 36mm's killing my bottom end. I just for care too much for the feeling of stroker cranks. I like the over rev of a big bore short stroke.

I'm wondering what decent big bore kits are out there for a stock stroke crank. I've heard nothing good about the Athena 68mm kits. I'm trying to keep my stock stroke crank if possible(already trued and welded) and just go big bore but it seems like the serval kits are the best bang for the buck. Right now I'm running stock size jugs ported with toomey t5's, v force 4's, just got some 36mm keihins that I have yet to run. Seems like no matter what I'm gonna have to grab a +4 crank, have it trued and welded then go from there. Had a banshee with a 7mm crank I should have stole out of it. Idk we'll see how these 36mm carbs work on a stock stroke/bore. Also running 18cc cool head domes on a 50/50 110/87 Sunoco/pump mix with castor 927 so I know I'm protected

Nope guess not, all the metal taken away by my hand has been on smaller motors. Although God was guiding me down to the last .001" hah. Haven't had the time or money to do what i want with my banshee. Could have seen this coming a mile away... God damn is every forum filled with kids?! Instead of trading info and being helpful from an objective standpoint just troll and sit behind your screen playing keyboard cowboy? Out of this whole thread there was like two helpful and relevant posts. It amazes me how awesome people can be. Some real winners in the world ha. Thanks to the people who actually helped. Think 33's are more suitable to my application. For now 36's will do. Not going back to mikunis. I would rather throw a new crank in before going back to those damn mikunis which is probably what I'm going to do right now. Hope that extra shee has a 7mil crank. Whatever it had the 36's weren't too big.

Thank you for being helpful and actually following the original intend I believe forums are for lol! And that was helpful! I'm just wondering if I'm sacrificing too much bottom end on a stock stroke with toomey t5's. I know my stuff when it comes to two strokes and port timing/shape/scavenging and after what I would refer to as my ignorant days(first batch of hacked up cyls). I understand the importance of keeping port velocity up and not just hogging stuff out and narrowing the powerband for an extra couple hp up top. I'm just trying to find the right combo of parts and port timing for my application. Looking for the most linear powerband with the max hp possible without having an extremely narrow powerband

I really don't want this thread derailed over someone thinking I literally meant I want to throw out of frame pipes on a banshee and go jump it lol! Nor am I saying dirt bikes are factually better. It's all opinion. With that being said can we please stay on topic and help each other out, not just argue over nonsense?

Haha why's it relevant? Am I being offensive? I'm not trying to be one of those annoying ass forum trolls.. I was just poking at you four wheel enthusiasts(of which I am one myself I just ride both). Anyways I'm 22. So let's get back on topic, am I going to actually have to do the math and see how much vacuum is necessary to run these carbs? I got these 36's off a banshee that my father bought to sell. Swapping all the parts that I want from it. I assumed it's a stroker cause it was ALL mid(CPI in frames) and even running ultra rich it wasn't lacking on the bottom too much at all. Stock jugs and head too. Head looks like it was decked and cut for o rings instead of a gasket. I know my crank is true and welded.. Idk if the other assumed stroker is welded though.. Ahh man soo much to think about and get done..

Why would I ever choose to literally jump a banshee(a damn school bus rocket) in the dunes lol?!? Quads suck for jumping.. Especially in the dunes. Two wheels are much more pleasant. I can hit off camber lips without getting ripped off the bike when I land;) but yeah I meant to rip around on a twin smoker. It kills my knees and rips my arms off but how can you not want to rip around on a twin smoker every now and then? What sucks though is that I can jump on my bike and still rape most built banshees including mine. Feels so much faster than it is.. Which is the fun part. I want to be able to beat 450 bikes up the hills with the janshee

No, it has a +4 swingarm, +3 on the axle and like +4-6 by on the a arms depending on if I run the offset wheels. I made it to be rideable but right on the edge. I just want the stronger wave from the pipes. Plus I love the sound of two strokes that aren't silenced. The shearer's seamed to be out of the way enough to ride. I could braze on extra mounts if necessary. Normally I'm on my dirt bike but from time to time I enjoy jumping on the old twin;)

So I was running the stock mikunis bored out to 31mm I believe, or whatever the max is. Anyways I'm so sick of the poor quality of the mikunis. So I had the opportunity to swap some 36mm keihin pwks and I'm wondering if they're too much for a non stroker/bored motor. Running cool head 18cc domes on 50/50 110/91. I like how much higher quality the keihins are I'm just wondering if they are too much for a stock bore/stroke? I might try and trade for some 33's. Running toomey t5's at the moment but I've been thinking of going shearer out of frame pipes.. Just wondering If the toomeys will be able to pull a strong enough to not absolutely destroy my bottom end? I'm pretty sure the bike they came off of is a stroker. Not and alc bike as well

I've yet to see some reputable evidence or some valid argument against what I've said. Sure running straight 110 leaded or a nice clean unleaded ethanol free fuel will keep things rust free and all rubber parts that it comes in contact with in better condition, but is someone going to tell me you can't get more power with E85 and never worry about overheating? You'll probably say that you should advance the timing while running alcohol based fuel such as E85 and methanol to get all the benefits from it possible? Are you going to say methanol is a horrible fuel as well? And that synthetics protect at twice the temps that castor oils do? Give me some feedback here! No one has posted up any evidence to discredit what I've said. the poor quality of pump gas as well as the detrimental effects of adding ethanol to that fuel that is already of super poor quality and what it does to our bikes/cars that are designed to run on pump fuel has nothing to do with the info I was trying to provide. That is a whole different can of worms and I do agree that gasohol is horrible. I'm not talking about that though so aside from that stuff what do you have to discredit me or teach me something I don't know. Everything I've said I've learned via research and being friends with a very well educated engine builder of all kinds, so please tell me something I'm missing. Synthetics and lean oil ratios have their place that's for sure, but for my style and how I build my motors I want to know their going to run as strong as they can with as linear and well rounded powerband as possible while being able to flog it all day and never worry about fouling a plug or over heating. FYI I never disputed the fact that synthetics keep things super clean, only that they are the weakest oil you can use. Hence their ability to keep things clean.

E85 is a great fuel for a given application. If you know how to get the benefits from it how is it not an intermediate fuel between pump and methanol? Doesn't eat at the motor as bad as methanol, easier to start and run. Little bit better mileage. And by terms of pure strength and protection castor is by far the strongest oil. And i said no matter what oil you use your premix ratio depends on your exact application. Not my motors that are getting deprived of lube and getting gunked up. Research it for yourself or keep on taking people's word for it like mine. I said research it. Show me some evidence that anything I said was wrong. Show me the cyls pitted out and destroyed after 15 years of E85 and synthetic oil. Then I'll say to you that the extra power was well worth replacing the float needle and o ring every few years. E85 isn't nearly as bad on our carbs/motors as rumored to be when used right.

I'm running 18cc domes in my cool head so I at least try and always keep the octane at 95+ If I'm running low on leaded or in a situation like that but mixing leaded with unleaded the octane rating goes up higher than the avg of the two. I'm pretty sure lead raises the motor octane rating more than the research... In short it resists "detonation" extremely well. E85 is also an awesome fuel but that's a whole other can of worms. I always mix a crazy fuel up. Best all around fuel mix I've ran was E85 mixed with a little VP U4.4 in my two strokes. That E85 really bumps the torque up, and it's way easier to use than methanol. Anyways of course you can always run too much oil, it all depends on what type of oil, fuel, bore size, rpm, load, everything. There is no generic ratio, it's always different. Just remember there is no replacement for having too little oil. Your bike would rather have too much horrible oil over way too little of the best oil. There is a tipping point, and the best way to find it is just progressively add oil & mess with jetting till it runs the way you want. Running a super lean oil ratio always seemed to mimic a lean air:fuel ratio to me.. Like it looses the bottom/mid and vibrates more. When you got just the right ratio you'll know. Bigger the bore less oil it needs. But rpm/load play a big part in requirements too. Run leaded, need a little less oil. I definitely wouldn't recommend castor in PV motors unless you're running alc with it or know the scavenging patterns well enough to know it won't gunk it up. I really hate klotz supertechniplate though... By far that is the worst oil if you're trying to keep things clean. I've ran repsol 100% synth and it surprised me, runs super clean and does protect decently. Idk I just won't run any other oil than castor. No oil comes close to its film strength and temp range, that's not opinion that's just fact. Idk how blendzall castor or klotz benol burns but maxima 927 is definitely cleaner burning than klotz supertechniplate. Sorry for the super long posts

Not trying to de rail the thread but don't follow the synth trend of running the leanest possible oil ratio. There has been testing and it's extremely easy to find, the more oil you can pack in there the better off you are. Rings seal better, more lube, keeps temps down, and best of all it keeps the cyls cleaner!!!! Everything but your pipes.. Castor def builds up in your pipes, especially running leaded fuel. I haven't had really any build up in my banshee pipes though. I do have to clean my pipes on my goped running castor @22:1 like every month, but for a cheap Chinese chrome plated 46cc spinning 15k tons of castor and lead have made my motors last 10x longer. No scoring or plating failures that is extremely common on those things. Ex port is clean enough to wipe off any carbon with your finger. All about jetting right and running the correct mix of oil and ratio for your riding style. You never go over 3k sure run 40:1 synth. You actually run your motors then mix it at at least 32:1 on a shee. Research research research. TONS of mis info on this subject and I expect people to bash what I said but I'll provide links for anyone who disputes what I've said.

Maxima and bel ray are the best manufactures of "lubes" by far. I run at least 50/50 mix of Sunoco 110 leaded with 87 mixed with maxima castor 927@28:1 or richer. There is no oil stronger than castor, and if anyone tries to dispute that just look it up. Castor has twice the film strength and temp protection over any other oil and ESPECIALLY synths. It's basically a 70/30 mix of castor/synth to help keep things clean. When mixed rich enough and you keep your temps right then it burns just as clean if not cleaner than any regular mineral oil. Klotz super techniplate is like a 80/20 synth/castor mix and it builds carbon at least 10x faster than maxima castor. No oil is stronger than castor, period. That is fact, no opinion in that. Do some research, look up the msds sheets on all lubes that you may be thinking of running. See what's in em. Running leaded fuel, jetted right, and kept within 220° range the cyls will last forever. Lead is key though. Just gotta stay on it or else you'll foul plugs quickly. I run maxima gear oil as well. Any coolant mixed 50/50 will do, add redline water wetter for a little better cooling. There is waterless coolant that has like a 400° boiling point, which is a massive jump over water containing coolant. If you're boiling over constantly something isn't right. I'm running very hogged out .080 cyls with 31mm bored carbs, T5's and I can keep it wide open hittin the dunes all day and no boiling over, hell it's a feat to hit 200+! Do some research and screw full synths.. But honestly do some research, look at the msds sheets on all lubes