AZBIKE_460

Also if anyone knows whats supposed to be removed/replaced with the aftermarket seal heads that would be great. Im assuming the 3 piece seal head and thats all but it looks a little thicker. Dont know if it fits between both clips or if one of the clips is supposed to be thrown out

Rebuilding a couple rear banshee shocks and i just noticed the canister isnt like most where you smack the cap in and remove the clip then the IFP is right there. Is it going to be a thread on? I mean it kinda has to be. Anyways my question then is where do you set the depth for the IFP? Racetech has some decent instructions but im kinda confused on whats a closed canister/picture looks like the IFP is at the bottom of the canister.. or can i just swap the seal head and leave the canister alone?

I know this is an old thread but ive been pretty happy with the stock rear. I have one with a pre load cap and one with a gold valve. Im just servicing them after like 10yrs lol.. im really surprised at how well they've held up. Pretty sure ohlins made em. Between race tech gold valve and springs you can make em work how you need. Axis if you have the money though for sure. Everything about them is nice as hell. Ive never ran elkas but im assuming they're good. Big thing to consider is are they gonna be around in 10yrs/be servicable. I got a bunch of works shocks and they work but no longer exist and they like to start leaking god damn immediately and tearing em apart vs axis i see why they're so cheap.. got a set of WP's on one of my banshees up front and those arent leaking after 20yrs and i like them a lot.. but ive never seen another single quad with wp's ever. Not one.

Ok i went up another size on the bit and once it got close enough i think it grabbed the clip and kicked it up.

Who here has experience with these shocks? Trying to replace the seal head and i drilled the body, clip is still stuck. Before i cut a socket to try and hammer the seal head down some im wondering if it will move at all? Seems like it doesnt need to move much. Ive hit it with a punch a few times its not moving.. surprising theres no good info/vids on these shocks considering how modified the banshee is and age.

Thats what i thought. On their site says .010 but shows a pic of head and base. I know the cometic base gaskets are significantly thinner im just wondering about the head. Idk if its gonna be enough to where i should swap it.. prob better off just ordering a head kit or further decking a little bit. I like a ton of comp

Does anyone know if the cometic head gaskets are thinner than oe? From what i remember the base gaskets are for sure. Idk if the heads are. I got a unit that has stock head on it and i got a cometic head gasket. Cheaper than a hk as i already have it.

Motoseal is not the same as yamabond, very very close but not quite the same. I personally would use yamabond or Honda bond. They have always sealed cases very well for me and hold up over time and as well as any fuel you want to use. The yamabond works GREAT as a gasket dressing as well. All the greys will work but Yamaha/hondabond are a bit more reliable over time in my experience but surface prep is key key key.

A great alternative to chrome or raw pipes is to use gun blue. Looks really good and protects from corrosion then when you go to burn out the carbon just re blue it. if you run a pretty rich mixture of castor plus leaded fuel I get a TON of carbon build up in the expansion cone/header bad so I frequently clean my pipes. Just a little trick for old school/factory pipe look and easy to maintain for running castor n leaded if you need it. If not then it's still a great unique look and function

I will once I have the money and these jugs are worn out. I would rather run 33's but i got the 36's for free. I know for the pipes the 36's will lack a little on the bottom but after talking with an extremely knowledgable guy about my set up we came to the conclusion that if the carbs are tuned right they should be just fine for now until I find someone with 33's in the same condition that would be willing to trade.

Been running 9 paddle skat trak edges for a while and I love em for all around riding. Either that or 10 paddle version, I also like the haulers. I like to run em on 8" rims, I have the edges on 10" wheels and I hate how the wheel will cut in to the sand and it just doesn't absorb the choppy stuff like 8" wheels will. Both sets seem to hook up just fine though.

That's seems to be the only way to go. They come with bigger ports for the big bore no? Idk I got a while before these jugs are worn out. Biggest thing I was worried about was the 36mm's killing my bottom end. I just for care too much for the feeling of stroker cranks. I like the over rev of a big bore short stroke.

I'm wondering what decent big bore kits are out there for a stock stroke crank. I've heard nothing good about the Athena 68mm kits. I'm trying to keep my stock stroke crank if possible(already trued and welded) and just go big bore but it seems like the serval kits are the best bang for the buck. Right now I'm running stock size jugs ported with toomey t5's, v force 4's, just got some 36mm keihins that I have yet to run. Seems like no matter what I'm gonna have to grab a +4 crank, have it trued and welded then go from there. Had a banshee with a 7mm crank I should have stole out of it. Idk we'll see how these 36mm carbs work on a stock stroke/bore. Also running 18cc cool head domes on a 50/50 110/87 Sunoco/pump mix with castor 927 so I know I'm protected

Nope guess not, all the metal taken away by my hand has been on smaller motors. Although God was guiding me down to the last .001" hah. Haven't had the time or money to do what i want with my banshee. Could have seen this coming a mile away... God damn is every forum filled with kids?! Instead of trading info and being helpful from an objective standpoint just troll and sit behind your screen playing keyboard cowboy? Out of this whole thread there was like two helpful and relevant posts. It amazes me how awesome people can be. Some real winners in the world ha. Thanks to the people who actually helped. Think 33's are more suitable to my application. For now 36's will do. Not going back to mikunis. I would rather throw a new crank in before going back to those damn mikunis which is probably what I'm going to do right now. Hope that extra shee has a 7mil crank. Whatever it had the 36's weren't too big.

Thank you for being helpful and actually following the original intend I believe forums are for lol! And that was helpful! I'm just wondering if I'm sacrificing too much bottom end on a stock stroke with toomey t5's. I know my stuff when it comes to two strokes and port timing/shape/scavenging and after what I would refer to as my ignorant days(first batch of hacked up cyls). I understand the importance of keeping port velocity up and not just hogging stuff out and narrowing the powerband for an extra couple hp up top. I'm just trying to find the right combo of parts and port timing for my application. Looking for the most linear powerband with the max hp possible without having an extremely narrow powerband