BrokeVW

I know.... I mean, how do WE know the valves are adjusted correctly and that is has new cams? Or if just one cam is new or ALL of them?

So more oil in the fuel showed more HP on the dyno or am I reading that incorrectly?

Thanks for the replies, looks like I am perfectly safe at 32:1 then!

Ah, then you know them already. Good to know.... if I have any problems reviving the 86 GTI and 88 Scirocco 16V one day, I'll send you a message!

I read it all.... I don't plan on porting anything, but I wanted to learn more about it. It's a bit more involved than the porting and polishing I did on little nitromethane RC engines, I'll probably be leaving any Banshee porting to the pros. Thanks for the informative post!

Well, that's fucking weird. As soon as I posted this... my shoutbox works. Still wondering about 24:1 or 32:1

I'm using Yamalube 2R.... the guy I bought the bike from stated to use 32:1 and not 24:1 to prevent fouling plugs frequently. I'm seeing 24:1 all over the Yamaha owners manual, in the Clymer, etc.... so for those of you using Yamalube 2R, what ratio do you mix at? Also, where the fuck is my shoutbox bar I can type in? I waited until 20+ posts, and no bar. I even went to my Profile page then selected shoutbox from the menu along the left (overview, profile feed, likes, etc.) and this is displayed: Error: Could not load template 'shoutboxProfile' from group 'shoutbox' If I mix it at 24:1 will the shoutbox work then?

I was not aware, but I just looked at their site and saw they list for all the brands except Pro Circuit, just like the FAST site but I'm sure they won't be too hard to find. I am glad they mention on the site that they should be replaced once a year... that answers my original question!

Hey Matt! I just recently registered after buying a Banshee. I'm kind of hooked on it... it feels like when I was into nitro R/C cars. Lots of anodized and go-fast goodies available and you can pretty much build one from scratch with aftermarket parts. I'd like to figure out how to make a big RC nitro engine for the Banshee.... 10 years ago nitro engines were making over 0.5hp/cc... that makes a 173hp Banshee at 347cc! I know what you mean about getting packages packaged horribly... it's to the point now that I take the time to thank customers when good packaging is used! I love foam packing peanuts too... they totally do the job on a trans for supporting the weight, they don't cling to anything, they don't shred, and you never find pieces of them stuck in vent tubes or tiny holes that infuriate you trying to clean out! Drain it, bag it with a couple rags or some old newspaper around it in the bag, pack it tight, use a decent box. Done. OK! I wasn't either until now. Mine are in a shameful state of neglect, it embarrasses me how I've ignored them but interest waned as I started rebuilding the 020 trans regularly, then my good friend got sick and passed and part of my self-prescribed therapy included spending money on bang-sticks and four wheelers. If you have any 020 trans questions (4- and 5-speeds used in all the 4-cyl Rabbits, Jettas, Golfs, Sciroccos, Cabby's, etc. from the first MK1 cars through the last MK3 in 1999), just let me know as I rebuild only the 020 trans and have info on them on my site at BrokeVW.com

All yours? Very nice collection if so.... I can see one that would buy a new '06 Banshee in a crate at $8K... God Bless Ronnie Barrett. I see you also collect stamps, $200 ones. I've got a couple of those as well. Nice pics too, good photogenic quality to them.

I would say I'm surprised about that, but unfortunately I'm not. People must think a couple millimeters of cardboard is a magical protection layer, because I'll get parts or trans shipped in like that if I'm not careful to remind them to pack it tight and not right against the sides of the boxing. That thin Yamaha aluminum didn't stand a chance.... here is a pic of a lug on the VW 020 trans that was snapped off in shipping and this is high quality German-produced aluminum casting that is a couple inches in size, it isn't weak. It's actually one of the lugs that are used to mount the trans to a trans stand for removing it from the car, but UPS, USPS, and FedEx will destroy it if given the chance. I once had UPS deliver 5 trans to me one day, the driver was kicking the box to roll it end over end down the middle aisle of the truck. Clunk! Clunk! Clunk! That wasn't the worst of it either.... 2 of the 5 boxes were empty. UPS lost 2 VW transaxles in shipping. I told them if they ran across a couple 70 pound trans in the back of a truck or plane, it's probably mine. They never turned up and I never paid UPS for the shipment. They turned me into a collection agency, I told the guy I would never pay and to sell the debt to the next collection agency. He didn't even try, he said OK and thanks and hung up and that was the last I heard of it. Pricks.

I rebuild VW transaxles, and often ship them back and forth. These are 70 pound chunks of aluminum and steel, and the shipping carriers will fucking destroy them during transit. I've got them beat though... there is a place about an hour away that sells styrofoam insulation. They buy it in "buns" that are like 16' x 8' x 4' blocks, they cut them with a hot wire cutter into sheets for metal buildings and barns and so on to insulate them. The scraps are usually a couple inch thick slabs 3' x 4' in size that I buy. I completely fill the bed and back cab of a F150 truck for $30 and end up with a shit ton of this foam. It has a crush rating of 1440 PSI, you can step on it, drive on it, and it won't completely crush. It cuts like butter on a hot-wire cutter (piece of wire, string it tight, attach a cheap 12V battery charger to each end). I cut the layers of foam used to pack the trans so each layer fits the object being packed perfectly. Stack them up until they cover the item, box it. Here are a couple AR rifles packed up ready to ship out to the non-free State of CT where only pre bans are legal (partially bagged to keep any foam rubbed away during shipping out of the actions)... The trick to shipping heavy items is to ensure it can't move around inside the box. If it can move, it'll go through the side of the box or get damaged or both. Keeping it packed tight stops the momentum and greatly helps prevent shipping damage. For heavy stuff, packing peanuts, bubble wrap, etc. just won't cut it, they'll crush and deform and leave space so the item can move around. I have had them shipped with pieces of heavy cardboard cut into scraps and just packed all around the trans and that works, as long as you pack it TIGHT. Sorry to see your broken case, hopefully you have good luck getting the insurance to pay out but USPS is horrible to deal with.

$24.99 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Banshee-Clymer-Manual-1987-2006-/181399730851?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item2a3c443aa3&vxp=mtr $26.91 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clymer-Repair-Manual-Yamaha-Banshee-YFZ350-YFZ-350-1987-2006-/281307914034?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item417f421f32&vxp=mtr Lots of them for less than $30 shipped on fleabay.

I thought he meant the choke connector between the 2 carbs, not the actual choke plunger. If the choke plunger is not staying pulled out, the spring is pulling it shut again because the small clip that fits into the grooves on the shaft is no longer fitting the grooves and failing to act as a detent to hold the choke open against the spring pressure. The link isn't working right, it should jump immediately to the 2:48 mark in the video so start the video then jump to 2:48 to see the choke spring and detent explanation....

I plan to get new hangers, new silicone couplers, and depending on the condition of the o-rings at the engine, new o-rings. I guess I could swap the hangers from one side to the other to see if the hanger is at fault or if it is something else on that side allowing the movement. There are only a couple places for movement to even occur if I'm looking at everything correctly... the o-rings and springs at the engine, the rubber Yamaha hanger at the front, the silicone coupler, and the rubber-washer insulated rear bolt for the silencer. It is just 2 pieces to the exhaust from what I see, no middle pipe. The big ram-horn front section, the coupler, then the silencer.

I missed that on the last page, sorry about that, and thanks for uploading it. Thanks to the OP for creating it!

They aren't stock couplers and brackets, the stock Yamaha couplers and clamps came with the bike along with other stock parts, but installed on there now are these (the coupler is a thick green silicone version that you can't see in this pic): I found these couplers at FAST, they fit most pipes but don't specifically say Pro Circuit in their list... I'll give them a call and make sure they fit my PC exhaust but I don't think I'll get new clamps, and I think I'm going to get stock Yamaha rubber brackets and o-rings for the front. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=361 Thanks for the info on where to pick them up at!

I was washing the Banshee today and noticed one pipe seems loose. There is movement in the coupler between the silencer and the pipe, there appears to be a green silicone coupler there joining them, then a clamp over that. The clamp is fully tight, closed up with no more squish left. Do the silicone couplers crush over time and require replacement after so long? The pipes are Pro Circuit Platinum and Pro Circuit 296 silencers. There is also a bracket for the pipe front section to the frame, it is a rubber insulator and there is some cracking in the rubber and some movement, however the brackets on both sides seem to be equally cracked and flexible, but only the right side has movement in the pipe/silencer parts, at the coupler. Everything is tight, I just can't get the one pipe solid feeling like the other and suspect it may need a new silicone coupler and new rubber insulated hanger.

If someone wants to send the files to me, I'll host them on my site and you can just right-click and download them like normal. I got v2.0 I think, but then it started wanting me to sign up, register, pay for premium services, etc.... I was trying to get the 1983 article about carb tuning. I'll host the files individually or wrap them up in a .rar and .zip bundle for one download, I just need someone to send them to me. Email them to [email protected] and I'll post a download link to them.

Looks like a damn good deal at $2500, and I'd leave the fenders alone.

So it is like the parking brake feature on the Warrior (and maybe the Banshee?) that will drastically alter timing/spark so it runs like shit? If the Warrior thinks the parking brake is applied (or if the switch is acting up) then it'll start and idle OK but run like ass when you try to take off, popping and backfiring and running like complete shit, not allowing it to rev up. I haven't tried it on my Banshee, I just remember the owners manual says the TORS will immediately cut off the ignition if there is a fault. The little warning box on that page states a potential hazard is continuing to ride the ATV after the TORS has stopped the engine. It goes on to say to ensure the fault is repaired before restarting the engine... by an Authorized Yamaha Dealer, of course. I read it to mean that the engine would be killed or stopped completely by the TORS but I guess it is like the parking brake thing, where it runs but runs like shit. In that case, the TORS may very well be the cause of the problem, but not unless the problem started right after the install of the new carbs that eliminated the TORS. If it ran OK with the new carbs for a few runs or minutes or whatever, then it probably isn't the TORS acting up... it would have done it right away.

I'm not the kinda person to say ahtodaso, but you know what? ahtodaso, I fucking ahtodaso.

If you switched the carbs right before the problem started, I would suspect them. If you had switched the carbs and it ran fine at first for several minutes and then started acting up, I wouldn't suspect them. There is, as I understand it, a feature of the TORS that will kill the spark completely if it thinks there is a fault, but that wouldn't make it run with low power, it would just stop it from running.

Hooray Yamaha! I like to hear this, even though I'm quite positive the experts in the youtube comments section have made it very clear that 2 strokes and especially Banshees need the engines rebuilt something like every 38 minutes, and that's why they suck. These tech gems are often found in the comments section of the videos where a Banshee is whooping the shit out of something else, oddly enough. Twin for the win.