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Posts posted by gusto
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New additions are top shelf!
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That’s a fresh build. Let’s see some pics
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100% do what is mentioned above.
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Best bet it contact westcoast atv parts his name is builder on here. He carries good used parts.
yes I think 340 is not a bad price. Have them throw in jets and a cable if you can.
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Keihin PWK are the best carbs for a banshee. Crisper throttle response, changing jets are a breeze also.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
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I’m impressed with your tool selection. Did you buy that as a kit?
i would recommend you make a template for your porting. Show your exhaust port. I’d like to see how much you’ve hogged out. You can safely remove more at your transfers and intake also, but I like that your playing it conservative.
concentrate on your port angles at the transfers
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Of those two Mattoon
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Why are you changing pipes you just bought? Unless your strictly a trail rider or want big bottom end I just keep them.
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re-measure your squish.
Also, with the stealth head option from Driveline (sending in your core) its hard not to go that route and have custom domes cut or the ability to change out domes/squish/compression.
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Nice job! What was the hardest part of the build? Did you buy an engine mount kit?
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No. You port your cylinders. The intake, outtake, and transfer ports.
cool head allows you to change your domes and compression.
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The guys at Fast know their shit. Start rich and work down. They will ball park you. Lots of guys here run 35s and can give you an idea. If you bought the top end from Fast have them port out the castings.
Excellent pipe choice, your going to fly
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Buy wiseco pistons.
bore your stock cylinders
consider a port job mows the time and the difference is huge
go through your bottom end and check seals etc
done! If you have the money send the whole engine to a sponsor
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You have the carbs already? I’d go PWK and a smaller size. Weld your stock crank. Good choice on pipes. Have FAST send you the jets you’ll need. They will know
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Sold 7.5 years ago
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1 hour ago, PapoEvoVIII said:
I’ve looked around but I don’t think he makes stators anymore. As for floating the ground that’s a simple job that can be done at home. I have heard he will rewind an oem stator still for more wattage. So I may go that route as that’s a more timely process that I don’t feel like taking on.
thats the reason for the bigger gas tank from ims. I get more riding out of it considering gas tanks on 4 pokes are generally in the 2.5-3.6g range so I would be able to ride just about as long as they would. Plus we refill during the trips so not all those hours on 1 tank either lol. My ltr can’t even do that...
buying a built bike is nice, you save a lot of money but I don’t find joy in buying someone else’s project. It’s always a pleasure when you build your own project. And I plan on taring it down eventually to do my own gusset and powdercoat the frame. One of my businesses has to do with metal working and fabricating.
whats a 392 setup? Stock stroke serval cub?
thanks
angel
JL Sells a plug in unit battery/rectifier that’s real slick. I have one. And it fits infringe of my Clarke tank. Also he can float your ground for 25 and if you need he sells a 200 watt stator.
yes a 392 is stock stroke crank 68mm bore. CP serval or Driveline Assassins would be my choice.
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Start it in the garage, adjust your air screws first out and see if it makes a difference. Then dial them in and see if that makes a difference when you take off
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Some fmf pipes like fatties take a bigger pilot like a 30 or 32.5. your describing in some ways a pilot jet problem
the problem you describe sounds carb related . If you have access to or can borrow a cdi try changing that
what’s the deal on the engine? Is it ported, what size domes are in the bike?
leak down test for sure, go to Home Depot or buy one from STB. This needs to be done.
is your cross over tube attached well to your carbs?
is there light showing at the reed pedals? -
Buy JL Engineering stator or have him convert your stock stator to DC. His set up is slick
your carbs are to big and use pwk’s
your suspension is a good choice
why would you want to build a stocker 4 mil with your pistons at that bore? That’s just dumb. You’d be way ahead doing a 392.
pro mods are great.
i would never do a lockup unless I needed it.
you would be way ahead buying built banshee. You’d pay half price compared to building one. Even shipping across country would be feasible.
going with a 421 is going to be hard on gas, you would be better off building a smaller motor if you want to ride 8-10 hours
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Buy JL Engineering stator or have home concert your stock stator to DC. His set up is slick
your carbs are to big and use pwk’s
your suspension is a good choice
why would you want to build a stocker 4 mil with your pistons at that bore? That’s just dumb. You’d be way ahead doing a 392.
pro mods are great.
i would never do a lockup unless I needed it
you would be way ahead buying built banshee. You’d pay half price compared to building one. Even shipping across country would be feasible.
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Defined talk to driveline, actually I would send in the engine. There are tons of stuff in your bottom end that should be looked at. HD clutch and pancake bearing is a must.
send it in for the work. Your going to fly! -
And yes factory ports. No porting done to those cylinders
Jugs the bigger the better
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
72mm for sure. Possibly can go bigger but I usually see billet cases on those big engines