Brap_Life

Zillaguy, rotor problem nonetheless, no reason to replace stator. Somebody heated it up too much trying to get it off? Dmbanshee, I have not once asked about which manual to use. Disrespect is easy to handle, ignorance makes me sick though.

If you were serious, with the right research, I imagine you could scavenge some snowmobile turbo accessories and work your way from there.

N2otoofastforu... hence the "alive so much in the sno and pwc market" at the end of the post.

Luv2ride Pop your ignition cover off, and run a fine grade sand paper over the reluctors in the flywheel, and do a reading on the pick up coil sitting just outside the flywheel. Get a buddy to kick it while you measure it in ac voltage, should be at hitting 1.5-3vac on average with each kick. Make sure your pick up coil isn't loose. If that all seems fine follow your wires, chase voltage to find out where the excess resistance is. Have a service manual for the bike?

If only they would take the time to swap direct injection to it, air assisted direct injection and it could pass no problem. Pv it from factory while we are in fantasy land. Banshee power commanders and all that. Long live the 2 stroke revival fantasy. Alive so much in sno and and pwc...

and yes i will agree that sometimes you can only test around a certain component to see if the component it's self is good, usually just rec/reg's tho...

And Zillaguy, i fully agree what you said about the stator, but then you jumped to changing the flywheel. The flywheel has reluctors on it that interrupt the magnetic field between flywheel and pick up coil, and that in turn allows voltage flow up the pick up coil. It wasn't your stator, it was your flywheel.

Has a coil for powering cdi, not for spark. You pick spark in quotes beside ignition hinting that the ignition coil in the stator controls spark, it does not. Pick up coil sits outside the flywheel and sends spark signal to the cdi. Tend to worry if the first thing someone does on a banshee is check stator for no spark, probably verify your pick up coil is sending voltage to the cdi first, could be as simple as a loose pick up, gapped a mm too far to pick up proper signal, and you replace a $100 stator, problem isn't fixed, could have spend $15 and fixed it, sad faces all around. Now if your getting 3 or 4 volts out of pick up i would def check to see if coil was getting voltage, if it wasn't, i'd check cdi, and find that it had no power out, and realize i had a stator issue, it's ac cdi. Or it could be neither, your kill switch as eroded enough to deposit enough material for continuity across the switch and all tests don't matter...we can walk the slippery slope of well this couldl and that could happen. If you are replacing your stator you had spark signal, no computer power to jump up the signal to the coil. what happens when you have no spark on a dc cdi ignition system and you have trained your brain that stator controls spark? You chase your ass with a multi meter getting good readings on your charging system while your hunting ignition problems.

going to be fun if the detonation ruined a lower bearing...

Some of you are just plain rude. It's cute. pm sent, no response??

did you pre-lube the bearings before install, and use the pre lube ports on the top casees to make sure the bearings were fully lubed? Could have been your issue.

^why colorblinds can't work on 2 strokes^ common knowledge for sure

I change parts all the time. Pick up coil controls spark. It has it's own seperate coil, the reluctor on the flywheel interupts the magnetic field, allowing 3 or so volts up the pick up coil, jumped up at the cdi, jumped up again at the coil, jumped up again at the spark plug. spark wasn't your problem if it was the stator, you probably didn't have power out of your cdi all together. Saw alot of people asking about manuals, wanted to post this one. flame on.

Which are you? Seems to me quite a few users on this forum think that the amount of posts they have contributed is directly proportional to their technical aptitude. Beware people, you run into this all the time, freaking ya-hoo's who have 3000 posts so they think they are professional technicians, and give advice that makes NO SENSE. I was warned not to join forums for this exact reason, it would just piss me off, young punks who changed their jets, now they think they are mechanics and want to run their mouths to folks who are truly trying to help. so for starters, stop asking so many damned questions, stop using owners manuals for repairs, and download this... http://www.maxmekker.com/atv-inc.htm go to the yamaha drop box, scroll to banshee, click go, it will download. ^factory service manual---no need to ask If you have a spark issue and someone sais do a resistance test on the stator....you could be in trouble listening to them.... I know im getting hazed for this, but people, i am just trying to truly help the people that need it.

With the abundance of aftermarket competition you are better off ordering the entire top end. I'd mic the pistons and cylinders to see what clearance is before anything else.

did you let it warm up and then test compression? a lot of times metal will retain it's original shape when cooling down, but when heated up the warping will show. But if it was warm during the compression test it should be good. Just remember to have the engine at it's trouble temp when diagnosing. and yes, a flying short can happen, just the slightest expansion of metal upon heating up can cause the stator to short a leg. but your stator doesn't run your ignition, your pick up coil does. EDIT---just scrolled back up to your video section, brother, your pickup coil leads are green/white and red/white. That's exactly what your problem was, intermittent shorting of the pickup coil. re-route and re-seal that section of harness and ride on.

These forums crack me up....so much pride and so much ignorance... fix it right the first time Daraji, don't turn it into a "we do it nice cuz we do it twice" job.

Trial and error lol. Pick up a set smaller, 21's or 20's. install them, run a compression test and a squish band test(some solder or gum placed in between the cylinder head and piston, rolled over TDC, measure it with a micrometer). Go from there. Probably just have to throw timing and more alcohol and bigger jets at it.

http://www.maxmekker.com/atv-inc.htm go to the yamaha section, scroll down to banshee, and click go. Download will start automatically. This is the 278 page factory service manual.

welcome for the free factory service manual.

I am just north of Rockford Illinois for the time being.

bamaboy, please, do yourself, and your pistons a favor, do a full speed plug chop, run it flat out in 4th gear, and hit the kill switch at wide open throttle, clutch it it and bring it to a stop. Pull the plugs and look at them. Dark plugs do NOT always mean it is rich! if it is a dark, DRY plug, you are so lean that you are burning the carbon out of your cylinder and it's dusting the hell out of your plug. please do yourself a favor and plug chop it. If it comes out dark and wet, then yes, your probably rich, but this sounds like a lean condition to me man. Is it burbling and sputtering in 5th and 6th? or does it seem like it just flattens out and won't pull through? If you are pulling rpms in 5th and 6th, just not hitting powerband you are likely far far lean and starving the engine for fuel it just won't turn any faster, and those dry brown plugs sound like a bad bad sign. Mess around and take random advice on jetting without proof checking with some plug chops and you will blow nice little holes through your pistons.

Here you go Exxxtreme, save yourself some cash on the factory manual, and save the headache of aftermarket. Adobe Acrobat, and this link, look at yamaha, scroll to banshee, click go, that is the factory 200+ page service manual bud. free factory Yamaha Banshee service manual download http://www.maxmekker.com/atv-inc.htm