jordanksartell

I read somewhere about the woodruff timing key sometimes shearing. So I suppose it'd probably be a good idea to get in there and see what's up. Is the crank seal easily accessible once the flywheel comes off? Thinking about just replacing that if it's right there as well. How easy is it to get ahold of a banshee flywheel puller? I have many different pullers and tools being a machinist, but I'll trust you if you say it requires a specific one.

Yep, pistons are facing the correct way. Definitely want to check for spark and such before going through all that. How hard is it to get to the Stator? I haven't really looked at that procedure yet.

Bowls are on correctly. (Bowl with jet is on the choke side)

Will purchase new plugs tomorrow and let you guys know whats up. Also noticed that both my plug boots are different and I don't have much wire length. I remembered back when I was having starting issues before it seemed like a loose plug boot (threads into the wire) so I cut the wire back 1/2" and rethreaded it in and thats when I had the most success (if you want to call it that) in starting. Is it possible to just put new wires on the coil or are the wires fixed to the coil end?

Tyler, you can swap it, just don't connect the electrical connector to it which will keep it from actually pumping (activates the compressor clutch) It'll save you a bit of cash when you take it to the shop then. While you're at it, I'd change the drier too. Tell the shop you've replaced those parts and need an evac, oil fill, and recharge. Shouldn't be more than 150-200$.

Well I didn't connect that, but somebody definitely did! I unplugged it and gave it a few kicks and still nothing really. Although I didn't try terribly hard. I DID notice though that right near there there is a 2 wire plug that isn't connected to anything. Would that possibly have something to do with my issues?

Guess I'll be ordering some 27.5 pilots.... What's the easiest way for me to check out the Stator and CDI? I just keep getting the feeling the dude knew the motor blew and then took parts off it to fix his other shees and then put the weak/failing parts on this one. I still got a good deal on it as I made an even trade for it with my 01 Suzuki JR80 that I got in trade and fixed up. I have about 700$ though into this between tires, pistons, machining, carb parts, graphics, headlight covers, etc. etc. I just want to enjoy it!

I will double check spark with my buddy. I sure hope that's all it is. It's just weird as before it would run on one cylinder to some degree and like I said, when I swapped plugs and wires with each other it made no change. They aren't side specific are they? (The wires) I have the carbs synced by eye. They open perfectly in time with each other. I spent a good 10 minutes making sure of this. I guess if I determine that it has good spark, I'll pull the carbs again and swap out the pilots and needles. Just sucks that I bought the other pilots and those needles. Previous owner had stock needles in it (3rd clip) with 300 mains and 25 pilots. (mind you this is the only setup where I have actually had it running [somewhat]) I can take a pic tomorrow, but I know the slides are in properly and are in time with eachother. Both sides are cutting out now.... rofl... I can't get it to even pop anymore since I had the carbs apart. Before, when it had the stock needles, 300 mains, and 25 pilots it would run smooth for a second, sputter, then the left side (choke side) would cut out all together and it'd only run on the right side. (didn't run it long, only a few seconds)

Sometimes, yes. Depending on the severity of the leak, BUT. And this is a huge BUT... adding that shit to your system will turn other shops away from fixing it as it really does a number on all the parts. So when your "fix" doesn't fully fix it and you take it in for real service your bill will be higher due to them having to deal with all of that crud. The only RIGHT way to fix AC systems on vehicles is in 3 steps... 1. replace any defective parts, 2. replace o-rings/seals to stop leaks, 3. evacuate and then recharge system using vacuum pump and gauges. Any other way will only give you more issues down the road and or cause you to incur more costs if you have a certified shop work on it.

If I were close Tyler I'd do it the right way for you. The stuff at Autozone and Advance is generally trash and does more damage to your system than it's worth. The right way is to replace the drier, evac the whole system, refill with oil and then charge with refrigerant. Generally a recharge isn't THAT expensive from a certified shop so long as there aren't any other issues within the system.

Tors has been eliminated. Although I should probably go back through and make sure he removed all the wiring necessary. I have the MotionPro carb caps and throttle cable. Stock carbs yes but with TORS eliminated. Alba specified 32.5 when running on the 4th position. Do you really think that pilot size would cause an absolute no start condition? As for the choke tube, yep, I replaced it with some new fuel line. Funny you mention the slides as the dude had them in backwards before and I had mistakingly reinstalled them the same way. After doing searches and searches I thought that might have been my only problem, but after flipping them and then manually re-syncing it made no change. Maybe I'm not syncing them properly? One of the carb windows is extremely cloudy and pretty impossible to see the dot on the slide, even after soaking them in solvent, I just got it to where it was even with the other. But yes, the slides are now installed properly. I'm almost wondering if it's a reed issue? The reeds looked BRAND NEW when I had the motor apart, so I'm not so sure. Is there a certain way the reeds must be installed? I'm just so frustrated. I'm generally pretty patient, having served on a submarine, but I just am so confused now...

Hey Guys, My name is Jordan and I'm a Navy Veteran (Machinist Mate) who picked up a 2001 Banshee in trade. Was told it needed rings and when I got it it was really low on compression and would run...barely. Anyway I got into it, tore it all down, being my first 2 stroke motor I've ever worked on and come to find out the pistons skirts had exploded. There weren't any pieces or anything in the bottom end by the crank so I assume they blew out the exhaust. After purchasing new Wiseco pistons and having my cylinders machined by one of the best places here in Nashville, TN I reassembled it all. After doing so, I couldn't for the life of me get it started. I did a couple times but it would sputter and die almost right away. When I did get it going it was running on both cylinders but then would cut out to just 1. I swapped plugs side to side as well as plug wires which resulted in no change (still ran on only the one side). Decided since he lied about it just needing rings I would pull the carbs and rebuild those as well. I installed Alba needles on the 4th position with the recommended 300 mains and 32.5 pilots. (I have Pro Circuit pipes and a K&N drop in) I put it all back together, manually synced the carbs, and still cannot get it started for anything, almost blacked out trying to push start it down my property multiple times. I am just getting so frustrated. I don't have a TON of money tied up into the bike but it's just really annoying and I'm getting frustrated and losing interest. Hoping somebody has an idea I haven't thought of and/or possibly there is another member nearby that is more versed in everything Banshee than I. I'm actually located in Christiana, TN which is about an hour Southeast of Nashville. If someone, anyone, can help me. I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!