slimguy379

Alright when my parts come in I'll start with square 1 andjust start at "19" and go from there thanks boys

Are the washers the same thickness before and after the basket? Maybe they are mixed up?

What about the transmission tube? Seems there's play inthe clutch basket towards and away from the case maybe like an 1/8" of play.did iI forget something in the case?

No the arrows are aligned

So I just got my banshee running, but everytime I let out the clutch it dies. I took apart the clutch side of the motor and noticed that a fiber plate had come out of the basket and jammed everything up. Its adjusted correctly. I'm just lost as to why the plate keeps coming out. I just ordered a new clutch, lock nut washer, a new spindle, and a new gasket. But I'm just curious what might be the issue.

So with the given combo of stuff what would I ballpark figure as far as power? I'm just curious if stock carb should be suitable.

Piston/ jug bore is what I bought it with. Just had to check the piston top for stamped mm. Its already been ported

So +4 mill crank, 66mm bore, +4 advance, 17cc domes, cool head, v force 3 reeds, reed spacers, just curious what else...

So stock cylinder is maxed at 66... why stroke over bore? I'll have to post pics of my crank to make sure I don't already have a mill crank

Stock, why woah? That's why I have this thread to get thoughts and opinions to which route to take...

So I think I've narrowed down what I want, I recently purchased a cool head with 17cc domes for $100, v force 3 reeds for $80. This pay check I'm ordering 68mm pistons so I can have my cylinders bored. I checked with a bud that owns a local motorcycle shop he said he charges $55 a hole. So for $110 I'll have mine bored. Obviously I'm buying a jet kit. I already have my sprockets set. What else could I use besides a crank? I'm not sure if I mentioned it but my jugs are ported.

So say I bought a 392 bore kit. Comes with head & cylinders. Now would I have to buy special stroke cylinders?

I bought the motor in parts, never paid attention but my crank says hot rod, what's the best way to tell if its a +4 mill crank?

So stock cyl are 64- 64.5 mm? So a " big bore kit" 392 is only 4mm over stock. Where do guys get 421?

So I pulled my motor stripped it right down. While I have it broken down I'm just curious what advise there is to make this a 2 stroke devil. I am running t5s, i am going to adjust for +4 timing. I want to buy new cool head with domes, modded star shifter, I would like a decent bore kit for a decent price but I'm lost as to what to buy seems you boys don't care for Athenas kits. I'm new to 2 strokes, but I do know engines. You guys talk about 421 cubs, now I take it those are stroked motors and use a "stroke" crank as in it has a longer stroke than stock. I'm running stock carbs and I'm curious as to when the cut off is till when you need bigger carbs. Ik I could build a bad ass motor for $3000. But I'm not looking to spend that much just trying to get an idea of what I should do and get some direction.

Looking for a big bore kit for stock stroke and possibly a cool head

Yea +20 t5s port polished advance time but it runs stock time now to narrow down issues. Damn I was hoping u would say my slides are in wrong lol

And the pilot doesn't have too much to do with the start up but I'm also having an issue maintaining a constant run so its either starving or being drown I think its being drown so hence going down a jet size

If I take off my air filters I should see a chunk of the slide gone right? Or am I wrong?

still is very hard to start need to kick and kick it ver until it finally gives, starts then i have to lay on the gas to maintain a continuious run

did a compression check, seems fine for a new build. NO clue how but i had lost spark again due to a ground. but re wired and tinkered with the carb to get full gas bam runs like a kitten. only thing is i need to hold on the throttle to keep her alive. spark plug just looks wet no black or white. i have a stock pilot but a 330 main, i did research on the jetting forum and from what i can tell thats apprriate. the air screws are 1 1/2 - 2 turns out. what could be my issue?

No everything is fine... its now a carb issue

If I got it to run should wires still be a cause for no fuel? I'm not running tors

ended upbeing bad ground to the motor due to powdercoat ran a ground wire to the head and bom stats up buti believe its just burning off gas in the cylinder. i sti am not getting gas to the cylinder... still think the reeds might be the issue.