Chris327

are you stupid?

i did have it ported for the 4 mill and about the custom cut domes... i thought they were interchangeable so i don't have to custom cut them??? and no i am not running a spacer plate

im in middle of a rebuild on the ol'shee and need your guys' opinions. i have had my jugs bored .60 over and slapped a 4mill 115mm long rod stroker crank in it and was wondering what size domes i should use. details you guys probably need... - 01 banshee - live in vestal NY -want to use 93 octane pump gas if i can (that high octane sh!t gets too expensive) -vito's 4mill 115 long rod crank balanced trued and welded -wiesco pistons forgot what size but fits the .60 over bore -cool head i cant think of any more details you guys might need but if i left something out, just reply and thanks for your input ohh and right now i have 21cc domes

yes there will be alot of port work and i have a cool head with high comp domes. not sure what size... i have always ran 110- 115and worked fine but it just put a hurtin in my wallet. oh and btw my shee before was not stock either... i can already imagine some of you guys flaming me thinking i was loading 115 in a stock engine lol

i did have it bored to the piston size because all pistons are different also the reason my skirt blew off was because there was play in the piston and it actually made my cylinder an oval shape. i had a .20 bore over and now i have to get .60 over to fix it. im having this guy to help with the crank and stuff so it will be done right. the guy also talked me into a long rod crank... what are your guys' thoughts on that (the one i bought was a 4 mil stroker long rod balanced welded & trued $350 free shipping) and some other questions i have... 1) what octaine should i run (i usually run 110 but recently been told that it is bad on 2 stroke?) 2) should i get an advanced timing plate (i have dyna fs) 3)WTF is a squish test

well, bad news is that my crank did not survive and left rod and piston is shot... good news is that i have a 4 mill stroker crank with long rods coming in the mail with oversized wiseco pistons. i had a guy who just rebuilds banshees clean my case and jugs up and bore it out. so she should be up and running in about a week or so. i have pictures but i guess they're too big to put on this post so might make an external link or something

i'm just trying to see if the crank has survived... this might sound like a dumb question but is there any way of testing it to make sure i don't need a new one cause i mine as well check since i have it half way open (looks fine)

the bike is mine... you must have misread

same thing with my piston, the skirt is blown off but when i did a leak down test it looked fine?

sorry for not updating lately, i've been really busy lately at work/school and haven't been able to update this post... i see that i pissed most of you guys off but heres what ive done so far and concluded: did a leakdown test... was fine so i tore off the head and see so far that the left piston is fucked (bottom half of piston gone) it looks like all the shrapnel from that piston went down in the gears so i think that is what locked it up ohh and the rings and rod bearings are also shot but the bore of the cylinder looks to be fine. i'm just waiting for my clutch and stator removal tools to come in so i can open up the case to see the futher damage done. i'm still not sure why it seized up like that? the only thing i can think of is that the shrapnel off the piston got wedged in there somewhere. we will see soon and if you guys know any other way to get the stator and clutch off without the tools please reply... i just want to open this fucker up and see.

i was riding yesterday at my friends field and noticed it was not running right... usually when i rip on it i can literally pull the front up on any gear. it was just running slow and would not rip at all, so i stopped and checked my compresion and digital ignition to make sure it wasn't screwing up. i took off again and it was making a pinging noice and then stopped running... now the kick starter is locked up. it can still shift gears. what do you guys think it is... im about to open it up in a little bit but just wondering what could have gone wrong?

i tore my banshee apart to day to check ALL the wiring and might have found the problem, there was a couple of wires that the insulation was frayed by rubbing on something leaving bare wire open so i put some electrical tape on it and shrink wrapped it up... also cleaned out the carb making sure everything is nice and tight. i will see if it worked in the morning, its too late to start it up right now but thanks for your input and will post in the morning. hope it works

maybe... it is kinda dark and i did shock the f*ck outta myself on something while it was wet. if it is that how would i go about fixing that? im trying to go rip up more trails tomorrow

its a banshee... no batteries and how the hell do you rotate the air in the tires??? do you take all the air in front tires and put it in the rear ones and somehow get the air in rear tires in front? you should post a video on how to do that.

he should run higher octane gas to keep it cooler

you should check ebay for one designed for an atv... there not too expensive

i went riding with a group of friends today and i went through a small creek to get to the trails on the other side (2-5 inches deep where i rode) i was going about 10 mph and as soon as i started going through the water it started to bog down all the way to like 2 mph and kept bogging... i can make it up small hills and stuff but wont let me go over 2 mph. i thought it might be my tors system but i took that out along with the parking brake like a year ago. it idles fine but bogs when i give it gas or start riding. ohhh... and it will run like a champ when the water dries off but even the slightest small puddles will set it off to start bogging.i thought it might be something electrical like my dyna fs digital tuning so i did a little diagnosis to try to pinpoint the problem - i started it up while it was dry and running fine then got a spray bottle and sprayed the wires till it started to bog. found out that it was actually in the carb area??? i am really confused on what the problem is. water by the carb area then dried and ran fine again. i sprayed and dried it off multiple times and continued to do the same thing? info you guys should also know: v-force stage 4 reed, 2-1 carb, pro design air flow, dyna fs digital ignition. any info/solutions would be greatly appreciated! ...Thanks

do red with gold flakes...