lastlegwarrior350

Sold.

Like the title says, I've got a set of black painted T5s. Not showroom, but they serve their purpose. I don't think there's any noticeable dings, at least I didn't see anything. $200 shipped. Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Bump for a great seller. Quick shipping and parts looked good as new.

Bump for an awesome seller. The parts arrived quick and just as described, and a free glove at no extra cost. Lol.

Didn't really know where to post this, but I've done some searches and called the number I found (760) 949-0017 for Shearer pipes...inbox is full. Is there another way to get ahold of these pipes? Any idea if the raw pipes are readily available or if they require a special order. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

Update Carbs - SOLD Cylinders - SOLD Crankshaft - SALE Pending

Price adjustment stock stroke hot rods crankshaft $100 + plus shipping (I'm pretty sure I can get the crank in a usps flat rate large box, it's like $25 for shipping) stock carbs $30 K&N clamp-on filters $10

Price adjustment Stock carbs - $50 K&N clamp-on filters - $15

Cylinders and pistons - SOLD

I've got a set of stock cylinders with a stock stroke dune/play port by Jeff at F.A.S.T. The only reason I'm selling is because I'm upgrading to cubs. Before I tore the bike down, each cylinder had 135-140 psi with 20cc domes at 1000ft asl. I'm assuming they'll need a fresh bore and hone before reinstalling them, but I'll send the pistons with the cylinders if someone wants to use them again. The bike ran fine prior to taking everything apart. I don't have any gauges to measure the bore, but the wisecos are 513M06500, which I think means the bore is .050 over stock? Please correct me if I'm wrong. Both bores feel smooth to the touch. I couldn't notice any ridges or scratches along the bore with my fingernail. $225 The crank is hot rods stock stroke. As you can see from the pics, I got a little carried away with sealant the last time I put the cases together. Despite my overzealous use of sealant, the bike ran great and the bearings spin freely with no binding or grinding. I don't have an v-blocks or measuring tools to test the bearings roundness or run-out, but as I said earlier, they still spin nice and smooth and came from a good running motor. I was able to get a hold of some feeler gauges to measure the connecting rod side clearance. According to the manual, connecting rod side clearance should be between 0.25-0.75mm. As you can see, I got 0.50mm on both rods. I'll be more than happy to provide additional pics if someone has concerns. The only thing I've noticed that MIGHT need replacing would be the bearing on the flywheel side of the motor. It spins freely with no grinding or noise, but it's the only bearing that I could notice with some axial play. It might be just fine, but I have no idea and haven't dealt with enough crankshafts to know one way or the other. $150 Lastly, I also have a lovely set of stock carbs with the god awful TORS still attached. I also have the K&N clamp-on pod filters that go with the stock carbs. I don't have pics of the filters yet, will post tomorrow. The filters aren't pretty, but functional. I've also got black outerwears that I'll include, they're also pretty rough. I believe the carbs have a 27.5 pilot and 300 mains. The carbs do include the attached throttle cable. If anyone has any questions, just let me know. $70 for the carbs, $20 for the filters and outerwears. <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s629.photobucket.com/user/bavhx4/embed/slideshow/Banshee"></iframe>

Still got the billet intakes? Do they come with the rubber manifolds?

Still got the billet intakes?

Much appreciated. I'll definitely hit them up. Thanks again.

I'm heading up that way tomorrow, and might need to do some rejetting...just wondering if anybody knew of any local shops in the area that might have mikuni jets on hand for stock banshee carbs. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

Just wanted say thanks for the tips. Larry's shee, you nailed it...just worked over the end of the idler shaft for a moment and BOOM!! The idler gear slid right on, smooth as could be. Thanks again.

Just wondering if anyone had any previous experience with this issue or not. Pressing the bearing in was no problem...but now whenever I go to put the idler gear back on the shaft, it won't slide onto the shaft. Its like the shaft end is too large or the bushing is too small. Now its not by a large amount, it just enough to stop the idler gear from sliding onto the shaft... I've never ran into a bushing issue like this, so I'm looking for some input or tricks. Any ideas? And just for the record, the bushing was removed and replaced properly at trusted local machine shop. Thanks in advance for the help.

Appreciate all the replies. Now I think I've got an idea of were I should be headed mod-wise...better pipes and carbs, followed by some sort of 4 mill setup. I would bump up the compression a little more, but access to race gas is almost +30 miles away...and it sounds like there's a little more power to be had on pump gas with a different setup. Since I've got some knowledgeable posters at the moment, should I be running an 8 or 9 series ngk? I know the 9 series is a colder plug, but I've read some posts that say shees with advanced timing need the colder plug...any ideas?

I don't think I'll upgrade the carbs until I rebuild sometime in the near future. I'll probably do some sort of 4 mil build. That seems to be the best all around option for making good numbers and maintaining all around rideability. Its a hot rods crank, so don't think its tru and welded...definitely something that'll be a must the next time I've got the cases split. Looks like I need to start looking into building a solid 4 mil setup...I just searched 4 mil build on here...and WOW!!! I had no idea there were so many variations on that particular build.

Thanks for the replies. I'm actually ok with my setup for now, but I just noticed quite a few posts with people upgrading their carb setup with similar mods as mine. Just wanted to make sure the stock carb setup wasn't starving my shee for air and losing easy hp. I'm not familiar with the port matching, so its safe to assume mine aren't port matched to the t5s. Lol. Is that something I should even look into? Or should I just start looking into cubs and/or stroker setup? I don't do sand drags or anything too crazy, but I do like ripping through open trails and fields. So basically, I don't wanna drag setup, but I do want more...where do I go from here? Thanks again for the suggestions.

I'm not sure this is the right section for this question, so my apologies if it is. I'm wondering what mod should come next...I'm thinking carbs, but I have no idea how big or what brand. I've read through quite a few posts on here, but haven't been able to come up with any solid answers. I've gathered that I wanna stick with the dual setup over a single...and going bigger means less bottom end due to less air velocity, but I'm not really concerned with a slight bottom end loss in exchange for more mid and top. My mods are as follows... Stock stroke .020 over Noss head 20cc domes +4 timing F.A.S.T. dune/play port Toomey t-5s VF3 reeds Clamp on K&Ns So I need some recommendations? I really like my mid range and top, so what ever carb setup will get me MoAR of that. I just don't wanna go too big, but i also don't wanna hinder myself for possible future motor mods... Any advice is appreciated. Also, if anyone knows of any good articles differentiating between the pros and cons of particular setups, I'd love to read those too. Thanks again.