Richmrf

Sorry, I know you are trying to help but if I put a 260 in, if it would start, it would run like hell till it melted. You and trick have been dead on with the pilot so far. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Believe it or not, I have been in mine so much also but it wasn't till last week that I thought to zip tie the spring. Much better but still a pain. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

So far you have been dead on. The only thing I did different is my first step was change to a 300 main and "27.5 with air screw 1/2 turn out and it was much better. I was able to rip around my old mans 70 acres on a bike that has been sitting for about 7 years. That being said, it ran great except between gears and coming off idle it would bog. I ran the air screws in the rest of the way (1/2 turn) and it was much better but still bogging. (The best it ran all day. So close) I went up to 30p's and no matter where I put the air screws, no good. So....... I would love to hear your advice on my next step. I was wondering what you would think about going back to 27.5's keeping the 300's and moving the needle up 1? Either way, I'll be doing whatever you recommend. Thanks for the help. You have saved me so much time already. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Did you mean to say 27.5 pilots?

Thanks, I already ordered 300,&290 mains and 30&27.5 pilots. I was thinking same as you. A friend I used to ride with in Cali (I'm in NJ now) says just move the needle up one. God damn, I hate changing the needle. Such a pain. It's hard to find dealers around here that stock jets for banshee's so even after I ordered them, I'll make some calls. Maybe I can find someplace that has them and I'll let you know how I made out.

My setup... Stock carbs 32.5p 310m 3rd clip of 6 on an aftermarket needle White bro's bottle V Force (3's I think) FMF Fatty Gold exhaust K&N single/ open box Head milled .050 dune port & polish Conditions.... Usually 60-70 deg (45 today) Sea level

I just rejetted my 01 and it started on the second kick. At first I thought everything was perfect but it puts out a ton of white smoke. With the choke on, I found that the left cylinder (by putting my hand in front of the exhaust) was only firing half as much as the right side. After it was warm enough to take the choke off, it flipped. The right side wasn't firing as much. It also would backfire and eventually die when the choke was off. With the choke on, at first glance and if you ignore the white smoke, it ran great. No problem going from idle to wide open several times. (I haven't adjusted the idle yet) My guess is it is way Rich. My air screws are 2 turns out. Do you think I can lean it out enough with the air screw? Or do you think it is something else all together?

I think it will look good when the wheels are on it.

My setup... Stock carbs 32.5p 310m 3rd clip of 6 on an aftermarket needle White bro's bottle V Force (3's I think) FMF Fatty Gold exhaust K&N single/ open box Head milled .050 dune port & polish Conditions.... Usually 60-70 deg (45 today) Sea level

I just rejetted my 01 and it started on the second kick. At first I thought everything was perfect but it puts out a ton of white smoke. With the choke on, I found that the left cylinder (by putting my hand in front of the exhaust) was only firing half as much as the right side. After it was warm enough to take the choke off, it flipped. The right side wasn't firing as much. It also would backfire and eventually die when the choke was off. With the choke on, at first glance and if you ignore the white smoke, it ran great. No problem going from idle to wide open several times. (I haven't adjusted the idle yet) My guess is it is way Rich. My air screws are 2 turns out. Do you think I can lean it out enough with the air screw? Or do you think it is something else all together?

Thank you all. Got what I needed.

A stock head milled 50 thousandths = NOSS cool head with ??cc domes

Thanks

I really am sorry guys. I know that everything changes my compression, But when I take the milled head off and put on the coolhead with ??cc domes. The compression will be the same. Nothing has been done to the head that is on there except that it was milled 50. A head milled 50thousandths = a NOSS coolhead with ??cc domes. If it helps, lets just say the bike is stock with just a milled head. What size domes should I buy for my coolhead that is sitting on my work bench? M671054

Your right, I'm not milling. The milling has been done by Sam Co in SD CA. I have a milled head and want to buy the correct domes for a coolhead. I just want to take the head that has been milled 50 thousandths and swap to the coolhead and keep the same compression. The cylinders have been Dune ported and polished.

No problem. If you change your mind, I would add some cash. I just sold its twin (had 2 same but one just had pipes) for $4,200

I HAVE AN 01' banshee with a clean (original owner) title that sat for 10 years. It has about 100 soft California sand dune hours on it. Ported, polished, milled, vforce reeds, white brothers boost bottle, K&N, E brake block off plate, FMF Fatty gold pipes and silencers, on the bike now and I have a brand new $200 NOSS cool head, turf tamer tires, stand shark tires. That's all I can think of now. Sorry but no suspension work. It's not a must in the California sand dunes. The story behind the low hours and why it sat the last 10 years is because I put about 80 or 90 hours on it to brake it in, then decided I wanted to double the HP. I tore it down, had Sam Co do the cylinders and head on it. My Yamaha mechanic friend and I put it all back together adding some bolt on parts. I rode it in the desert about 3 more trips. It was running a little Rich in the top of 5th and all of 6th gear. I didn't mind because the thing is a beast and you never need to go over 90 in the sand dunes. I moved home to NJ and with the difference in humidity, it ran even more Rich, and in NJ we have places to ride where you could use 6th gear if you have the balls. I finally decided lat week to jet the bike for the east coast humidity. In fact, the carbs have been torn apart this week and should be back together by s . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I would like to switch to my coolhead, and I can barely run pump gas as it is. If anything, I would like to lose a little compression. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

My bad and I apologize. I have no idea what the compression is. I just figured someone would have a close estimate on how much compression milling the head down 50 thousandths would add. Then after that, match that increase in compression, to how much compression the different size domes would increase it. The work done to the cylinders would play no factor in this equation. They are a constant. I'm only changing the head. Cylinders will be staying the same. For example if I had a stock head, that wasn't milled down at all, I would use 22cc domes to keep the same compression. The fact that it is ported and polished has the same effect as the extended A arms,. Right? I'm sure someone out there has an idea how many cc domes is damn near the same as a head milled 50 thousandths. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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Hmmm....very interesting. Another thing I don't understand is why the stock rebuild kit I bought has a different size then the ones in my carbs now (came in the quad). They should be the same size i would think. We will find out soon enough. Do you think if it has a hard time coming off idle, (if it bogs) I should try taking them out?

Thanks a lot

I guess no one knows for sure? I have rebuilt my carbs a dozen times and never noticed them until this time when I bought a stock rebuild kit because they didn't have any gaskets for the bowls in stock. I never noticed this jet in the picture with the screwdriver pointing to it, nor have I ever noticed this O ring in the other picture. Anyone? I would like to know before I put the carbs back on tomorrow.

You are correct. Pilot is by the main. The jet I'm pointing to with the screwdriver is something different and I have been asking around trying to find out what that jet does. Anyone?

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? FMF fatty gold 2) What type of airfilter do you have? Single K&N 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid b)stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox. B 4) What is your elevation? 0-500 ft 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 32.5 6) What size main jets are you using? 310 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 70ish 8) Do you have a port job? Yes 9) What kind of carbs? Stock 10) What size carbs? Stock I'm not so sure about keeping my pilots that big. They worked in Glamis (desert) but now I'm on the east coast with much more humidity. Anyone have suggestions?