Richmrf

Sorry, I know you are trying to help but if I put a 260 in, if it would start, it would run like hell till it melted. You and trick have been dead on with the pilot so far. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Believe it or not, I have been in mine so much also but it wasn't till last week that I thought to zip tie the spring. Much better but still a pain. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

So far you have been dead on. The only thing I did different is my first step was change to a 300 main and "27.5 with air screw 1/2 turn out and it was much better. I was able to rip around my old mans 70 acres on a bike that has been sitting for about 7 years. That being said, it ran great except between gears and coming off idle it would bog. I ran the air screws in the rest of the way (1/2 turn) and it was much better but still bogging. (The best it ran all day. So close) I went up to 30p's and no matter where I put the air screws, no good. So....... I would love to hear your advice on my next step. I was wondering what you would think about going back to 27.5's keeping the 300's and moving the needle up 1? Either way, I'll be doing whatever you recommend. Thanks for the help. You have saved me so much time already. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Did you mean to say 27.5 pilots?

Thanks, I already ordered 300,&290 mains and 30&27.5 pilots. I was thinking same as you. A friend I used to ride with in Cali (I'm in NJ now) says just move the needle up one. God damn, I hate changing the needle. Such a pain. It's hard to find dealers around here that stock jets for banshee's so even after I ordered them, I'll make some calls. Maybe I can find someplace that has them and I'll let you know how I made out.

My setup... Stock carbs 32.5p 310m 3rd clip of 6 on an aftermarket needle White bro's bottle V Force (3's I think) FMF Fatty Gold exhaust K&N single/ open box Head milled .050 dune port & polish Conditions.... Usually 60-70 deg (45 today) Sea level

I just rejetted my 01 and it started on the second kick. At first I thought everything was perfect but it puts out a ton of white smoke. With the choke on, I found that the left cylinder (by putting my hand in front of the exhaust) was only firing half as much as the right side. After it was warm enough to take the choke off, it flipped. The right side wasn't firing as much. It also would backfire and eventually die when the choke was off. With the choke on, at first glance and if you ignore the white smoke, it ran great. No problem going from idle to wide open several times. (I haven't adjusted the idle yet) My guess is it is way Rich. My air screws are 2 turns out. Do you think I can lean it out enough with the air screw? Or do you think it is something else all together?

I think it will look good when the wheels are on it.

My setup... Stock carbs 32.5p 310m 3rd clip of 6 on an aftermarket needle White bro's bottle V Force (3's I think) FMF Fatty Gold exhaust K&N single/ open box Head milled .050 dune port & polish Conditions.... Usually 60-70 deg (45 today) Sea level

I just rejetted my 01 and it started on the second kick. At first I thought everything was perfect but it puts out a ton of white smoke. With the choke on, I found that the left cylinder (by putting my hand in front of the exhaust) was only firing half as much as the right side. After it was warm enough to take the choke off, it flipped. The right side wasn't firing as much. It also would backfire and eventually die when the choke was off. With the choke on, at first glance and if you ignore the white smoke, it ran great. No problem going from idle to wide open several times. (I haven't adjusted the idle yet) My guess is it is way Rich. My air screws are 2 turns out. Do you think I can lean it out enough with the air screw? Or do you think it is something else all together?

Thank you all. Got what I needed.

A stock head milled 50 thousandths = NOSS cool head with ??cc domes

Thanks

I really am sorry guys. I know that everything changes my compression, But when I take the milled head off and put on the coolhead with ??cc domes. The compression will be the same. Nothing has been done to the head that is on there except that it was milled 50. A head milled 50thousandths = a NOSS coolhead with ??cc domes. If it helps, lets just say the bike is stock with just a milled head. What size domes should I buy for my coolhead that is sitting on my work bench? M671054

Your right, I'm not milling. The milling has been done by Sam Co in SD CA. I have a milled head and want to buy the correct domes for a coolhead. I just want to take the head that has been milled 50 thousandths and swap to the coolhead and keep the same compression. The cylinders have been Dune ported and polished.