yamaha driver

the tips were tan. i didnt have any new plugs for a chop.

anyone know where i can pick some jets and needles up?

first of my mods are only fmf pipes with no airbox just open uni airfilter. so right now my plugs are about a tan color after just riding around. but it seems somewhat hard to start now since it got a little colder out side. it takes full choke and about 8 kicks at about 20-50 degrees. my jets now are 25 pilots and 250 main's and my needle is on the very lowest setting. i believe the needles are 5n7. and air screws are out 2 screws. Should i jet up? and if so where is a good place to buy needles and jets since one of my needles are bent at the tip

yea i took one carb off at a time. i found out one of the throttle needles are bent though but its on the opposite side that it was backfiring from. should i just install some bigger jets and get the same type of needles? and if so what sizes should i go 2

so i bought some moose carb kits for my banshee but now when it just warms up and i hit the gas it will bog a little and sometimes backfire. It has the choke tube hooked up. the jets are 250 main 25 pilot jets are 25. screw is out 2 with needles on middle clip. im about sea level. any ideas anyone

i used a copper pad so it didnt scratch as much. and also used windex when i was scrubbing since it seemed to help to get the rust of better.

no i know its a parking brake sensor. i think you can just unplug it

its a parking brake switch. alot of people remove them since they go bad but im not sure. i think you just unplug/cut them. dont quote me on that

i had almost the same exact problem. It was running great so i shut it off. came back an hour later and wouldnt start. found out underneath the gas tank there was a black/white wire for the spark that was rubbing agianst a wire holder and was bare. taped it up and ran great afterwords

i didnt even check to see if those arrows are lined up right now. But i already got the kit ordered so i will figure it out then. I also ordered 2 moose carb kits since last time i had my carb tops off one of my needle tips were bent. Im not sure how they bend unless someone installed it wrong the first time

alright. im hoping the tusk will hold up fine and thanks for the reply

no motor work done that i know of. anything else i should replace/check while im in there?

yea exactly. I thought tusk clutches were no good? i thought i heard that somewhere

Yea my adjustment is screwed all the way in and my banshee will first start to move when my clutch lever is almost all the way out

So the clutch slips if i hit the powerband in almost every gear so im guessing its time to rebuild it. But also if its in first and i pull the clutch in and start it, it will lurch forward about 3 feet. Do they all do that or is that something in the clutch that needs replacing. Also Any recommended clutch kits? i was looking at F.A.S.T's clutch kit and was thinking about that one

depends on compression and what not also

wait Wait WAIT. nobody told me about this "season" i just rejet and keep on truckin.

how much about for the setup did you pay??

now you might be running a bit leaner then anything since more oil means less gas that goes into your engine. i would do a plug chop and see what they look like. If you dont know how to do one there is a thread on here under jetting somewhere. if its constantly dying or runs for like 20 minutes each time then dies make sure your fuel tank breather is not kinked and its getting air. make sure gas is coming out of the petcock at a steady stream. if its neither of those you might want to clean your carbs out good. could be gunk underneath the float seats

do you know a good place to get new j-arms? all i usualy see are a-arms also i see the other side doesnt have play but is rubbing the shock a little when the banshee has noone on it. Would that mean the j-arm is bent?

my left side ball joint on my j-arm seems to be shot or at least worn. You can grab the top of the tire and move it pretty good in and out and you can see that the lower part of the ball joint moves and the j-arm does not. I think i saw somewhere you cannot replace them. can you replace them or will it hurt to just leave it

im not sure what the difference is between amsoil saber,interceptor,or dominator but the dominator says its for on the edge racing and is anti-scuff and anti-friction so i picked that instead haha.

i used a electric knife since i didnt have a sawzall at the time.

Or just go to a different gas station with 3 nozzles I run amsoil dominator racing oil in all my 2 strokes I owned. From yamaha 3 wheelers to banshees at 32 to 1

stock sounds good for you. unless you want more torque/accleration either drop the front down teeth or bump the rear up. you will have to experiment. i still think stock would be fine