BeeCanBanshee

Have you checked the plug wires and caps?

So I swaped plugs and cleaned carbs, replaced intake boot and reed gaskets. Ran good for about 15 min then started backfiring and stalling again. Tested stator and it was good tested coil and I got .4 ohms on primary side and OL on secondary side. Which according to the manual is bad. Also had a plug cap with no continuity and my plug wires were a little rusty. So I got a new coil,wires and caps on the way. Will update again after I put the new stuff on.

Will also trade for stock carbs with tors delete with boots and built in cross over tube

trinity 2to1 with 33pwk with brand new boot never used. Also comes with billet reed spacers . Looking to trade for complete dual 28pwk set-up. Will text pics apon request.

Will do any more ideas

A little more info.. the last hill I was on while riding I was wot when it died out. It also fouled the plugs cause when I put the new ones in it ran better. Could the float level changed?

That's what I was thinking but why all of a sudden.

Reved wide open on its own? If so I had a similar prob and had a broken reed

So took my bike out the other day and was riding up and down some big hills then all of a sudden it starts backfiring and then stalled. I couldn't get it back running. So I got it home and replaced the spark plugs. And after about 10 kicks it started and idles. But is was pouring out blueish smoke. Then stalled after idling for about 5min. Then I got it started again but now it won't idle and back fires every now and then. And jerks at low speed. Pulled the carb and there's gas sitting on the lip of the intake boot. Checked reeds and they ate good. Mods are fmf fatties with pc II's, +4 timing, trinity 2to1 with a 33pwk 48 pilot 190 main dek needle on 3rd clip screw 1.5 turns out, k&n clamp on. Checked compression earlier this month and was 115 in both cyl. It's apart at the moment I'm waiting on reed gaskets. Any help would be great thanks.

I want the seat. Sent you a pm

Pm sent

Looking to trade my fmf fatties with pc II's for a 2 to 1 pipe. And looking to trade my my trinity 2 to 1 carb set-up with 33 mm pwk for a duel carb set-up. Can text pics. Text me at 703 969 eight for 1 zero

Personally I have a 33mm pwk 2into1 and my main is 190 pilot is 48 at 100 ft elv. and it runs great. When I got mine it had a 160 main and 52 pilot and ran like ass when it did start and my plugs looked like yours. I would rejet and also check your throttle cable. When I got mine it was stretched so bad it wouldn't idle.

I ended up with a 48 pilot and a 190 main dek on 3rd clip. It runs great but is it worth it to use a 35 pwk over a 33 on a single or dual set up? Is there a big difference in performance going from a 33 to a 35

Thanks I got in touch with him. 2nd carb will be here soon. Btw when it gets here I need to jet it. Right know my carb has a 48 pilot 190 main dek needle on 3rd clip can I set the other one up the samr and be done or do I need to completely re jet

It's a kit made to go from 2 carbs to 1. Not my idea, it came on the bike when I got it. Just trying to make it work. And where can u find thus other carb you speak of? I want it.

Would the jetting be the same weather you have 2 33's or 1? I ask because I have a 2into1 with a 33 pwk, I got it with a 52 pilot and 165 main and it wouldn't idle. And would bog at low rpm. I moved down to a 48 pilot and still no idle I have a 45 I'm going to try but I also have a 60 and 62. Also I just put in a dek needle on 3rd clip and a 190 main. I will be testing tonite. I'm ay about 100 ft elevation with adj timing plate, k and n with no box, fatty's with pc II's.

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Ok I didn't know it didn't have a fuel screw. This is my first 2 stroke. And yes ill do a leak down next. BTW I looked today and my spark plugs are black and oily. And I might be a little paranoid but the oil on my dipstick looked watery. The leak down should also tell me if my head gasket is blown right? Should I do a compression test as well?

Yes I did. But I can check them again it was a pain to get on. I guess I could spray around the gaskets and see if the rpms raise

Let me explain a little bit better. When I got the bike once you started it it would idle good for about 5 seconds then go to wide open without touching the throttle. That ended up being caused by a broken reed pedal. So I replaced them. Once that was done i started it and it won't stay idling. But it doesn't sky rocket the rpms anymore so that fixed that problem. Now it just won't idle and bogs a little at low rpm if I drive it around. It also smokes a lot more than it should I think when its in neutral and giving it gas to stay running. So I am thinking the pilot jet is to big. Sound about right? also is your air and fuel screw out 1 1/4 or just the air screw.

I got a deal on it. Ran but had a high idle. Found a broken reed after I replaced it. Is doesn't go wide open like it dud but know it just won't idle.

Any idea on ball park jetting?

I found a few threads on this but they all had 2 carbs. I have a trinity 2into1 setup with a 33mm pwk. Pilot jet is a 52 and not sure of main but it is on the third clip. Also I was told it was bore'd to a 400cc. It also has fmf fatties with power core 2's and vforce2 reeds (just replaced). no air box just a k&n. Elevation is around 100ft. So It will go if I keep on the gas but it won't hold a idle. It also feels like its bogging at low rpm and then all of a sudden gets full power as rpms raise. Not sure what I should set my idle and fuel screws to. Not even sure what I good starting point would be. And I'm not sure if its even jetted correctly. Any help would be awsome thanks