nerf bars in great shape, frame mounts not pictured but have fresh black epoxy paint
$250 shipped ***sold
Like new pro design 21cc domes $40 shipped
***sold
Like new 4mil 19cc domes $40 shipped ***sold
New never ran outer wears for 6inch filters $20 shipped ***sold
Billet front spindle covers, one of the orings is dry rotted and needs replaced ***sold
Billet water pump cover ***sold
Richies pegs $100 shipped
Chariot pancake bearing, very little use ***sold
New never ran stainless lone star +2 tie rods $45 shipped
Yfz master cylinder $40 shipped ***sold
Jds round house rotor guard ***sold
Remove just the front section of the cup on air box itself. This will allow it to be installed from the rear and still have the tabs to support the weight
I already have domes jayz but every builder has different opinions of what's best. This was intended to be an opportunity to better understand the different setups and what others may have experienced with the changes. Such as 1* divergent vs 2* or x amount of squish or say a dome to spec with the bore instead of just using 66 bore domes on all small bore motors etc... do you have any info you would like to contribute ?
Curious of some others dome specs for a 4mm lr with 795 pistons. Looking for as much info as possible to compare/learn by Such as step, angle vs pistons, band width, squish, bore size of dome vs piston, cc etc... ready and go
I prefer the titanium heat wrap from auto stores over the cascade due to they allow foreign material (mud/water/etc..) in around the pipe, also they are quite bulky and will actually cause your fit to be worse just heat proof
I found with my upp intakes, 35 pwks, and cpi that the k&n 10* filters fit tremendously better than the 20* that cascade recomended. I have an extra 10* filter if you would like to try it. Also you are trying to rotate the filter and you can also angle the filter on the carb bell with the lil notches that are in the flange