Abe

My buddy is having similar issues. He also has 39pwk's .120 dumps .110 mains. Carbs ran fine on a 4mil cub with pj's 3 turns out on average at our local track. He now has a 10 mil cub at 195psi. It will rev fine in neutral but once you leave the line under load it won't clear out unless the pj's are closed down to about 1 turn out. I'm not familiar with alcohol so it scares me having the pj that far closed especially knowing the 4 mil ran them opened up much more. both motors had BB shearer oof pipes. any words of wisdom would be appreciated

I assume your running round housing sheerider? if so you need at least -4 from stock length line. oem line is 24"

banshee only has 2 wires exiting the stator. one is simply a ground to the stator plate which ends up grounding to the engine, stator, and chassis. The other is the lighting coil ac voltage. when the ground is floated you will unsolder one end of the lighting coil and add on making the third wire. so in reality only one wire is from the coil coming out the stator in oem configuration. so I assume the bottom diagram I posted is how a non floated banshee is ran. only difference in your setup and the bottom diagram would be you have the reg/rect casing grounded to chassis.

this diagram suggest to not mounot the regulator to chassis if not using a floated ground. hmm

this is a little confusing, are you saying to not ground the lights at all not even to the battery? or to not ground the reg/rec and to leave the wire for a floated ground open ?

I had already purchased the ebay one when you said that so I was already partially committed. You are running just the trail tech piece and no regulator before correct? The wire from tt reg/rec that suppose to be to the floated ground is just left open? all lighting grounds must be ran to the tt reg/rec or battery ground ? think that sums up all the ? lol

Very south eastern tip, town called Middlesboro. I tested un regulated and I don't know the exact voltage output but I do remember reaching over 20v ac in a rev and it is an oem stator

I may have ac problems as well as a faulty rectifier now bummer

Just wanting to insure my ac side is correct before I troubleshoot too much with the dc rectified side of the rectifier I'm running

Check this out please gary, see if you can enlighten me. Since I was having trouble with the dc side I went back to test all my ac stuff and find that I don't get 12v ac with any of my oem regulators.http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/183866-battery-for-led-lights/page-3#entry1754282

Wasn't saving much coin with the rectifier I bought costing $45 was just trying to avoid pulling it back apart to float the ground. Those voltage readings are in ac I had unhooked the box to test my system to try an find a reason for it failing. Even said what the heck and hooked it up un- regulated to just try an get it to light the led indicator back up incase my problem was not getting enough voltage to the rectifier.

I currently have 9.5vac at idle and can't get over 11vac at any rpm above. I easily produce 20 plus volts without the regulator so I assume the stator is fine. Also have tried a couple different regulators all with same results. Any suggestions why I can't get 12vac or should I ? Does the regulator require a load from the lights to produce proper voltage ?

Well I went to do some testing today and just had the box mocked up with no lights. Fired up and immediately had led indicator light on showing that it was working. Lasted about a minute while I was rounding up volt meter etc.. before it went out. Seemed to happen while I was giving it a rev so I thought damn my regulator isn't working and I had fried the box. Went on to test the current regulator plus one more and I have roughly 9.5v at idle but neither one will reach more than about 11v no matter how hard I rev it, also seems to make more volts just a little past idle compared to a hard rev. Without the regulator it easily makes 20v + so I don't think my stator is bad but why can't I get 12v with the regulator ? Also any ideas how to test the box to see if it's fried ?

Just a tip, the full bearing clip doesn't always fit the cases. I have also heard some older cases don't have the upper half grooves at all. In my case I had the grooves but there was still too large of an od on the clip for my cases to fully seat.

Will do

The rest of the box is captured in that spray foam so nothing else will be able to be seen without tearing it up

I'm using the factory regulator before the rectifier to keep the voltage in check. The high med and low is a push button incorporated into the rear of the headlight housing. I have a lsr bar clamp with the mount for a tether but instead I will be using a plate to mount the push button trail tech switch to power the headlights on and off.

All the rave about what's in the box and now no comments, eBay seller replied to my ? And said it should be good for 150 watts or 12.5amps

One of the sellers other posts lists the box is good up to 5amps, when I used a conversion calculator online that in return equals 60watts. I will be less than half of that so I would think I'm well in the safe area

Inside the box

Somebody needs this shit

Rmatv sells oem parts as well for about 10-15% lower than dealer retail. All the plastic parts are reasonable minus any of the special radiator covers, some can be high as like $500 for them alone

Already got it steven, and I'm sure your light bar is drawing alot more power than my 2 trail tech equinox lights. They actually have a lo, med, and hi at 3, 6, and 10 watts useage per light.

Also the box is from ebay but didn't list any maximum watts to be drawn.http://m.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Universal-Rectifier-Converts-12V-AC-to-12V-DC-Voltage-/171266352569?nav=SEARCH

I plan on mounting up front somewhere is why I wanted it small, I only have one wire going to the rear for my tail light and it is inside the frame rail. Would like to keep the wiring to a minimum for a cleaner look.