kessig4x4

Anyone have just a Red Radiator Shroud laying around? i dont need the black plastic grille insert the tank plastics or any of that stuff. The guy i got my bike from painted mine black and it looked crappy so i stripped the paint and took a heat gun to it and now it almost looks equally crappy. I hate to pay 50 buks for a set of complete tannk cover etc kit off ebay or 80 for a new one from maier for some dinky little piece of plastic.I have a big desert tank so i have no use for those parts If you have anything let me know, appresiate it Kyle

Can you use a Banshee axle with these or do you have to convert over to Honda parts? I have a set of FMF Gnarlys with silencers in good shape If they catch your interest. Still on bike but just bought a set of pipes for mid-top so ill be taking them off Kyle

are you sellin the paddles?

Alright, I ll pull it off and clean the pins and neversieze it, and chamfer the rotor...Thanks for the ideas, i probably wouldn't have even guessed about the pins! I guess it would've been common sense for me to lube the pins since i grease the slides on every brake job i do on cars a couple times a week...things you don't think about on your own stuff!

I thought it ran good but he seemed like he had more experience with Banshees than i had so i figured id take the advice and maybe there was something he noticed i didnt. The 290s gave the problem stated. Put 300s in it and it seems all around perfect. Now im going to put CPIs on it next week and will have to switch back up to the 310s probably haha. At least ill be able to ride tomorrow and an evening or two this week with no problems. I would put the 310s back in it to run it long term jest to be safe anyhow so i may have to run out to get 320's with the CPI's the way i figure but idk i'm pretty new to the jetting game.

Okay i won a set of CPIs off ebay for a half the price. I'm going to save after them and get a set of new Shearers if i like the drag pipes. I'm going to decide the day i get/put the CPIs on whether i will keep the FMF's or sell them. I'm definately an aggressive rider so i believe i willl end up hanging onto the CPIs and sell the Gnarly's. Let me know what you have to trade. in a PM or something, if nothing catches my eye ill figure a price out.

So has anyone thats ran one of these Galfer Wave brake rotors in the rear have a problem with it ripping brake pads off? This bike is new to me so idk if its just since the rotors been put on or if something else has happened. But the first week i got it, brake pedal lost pressure, pumped it back up rode, got back home looked at it and the pad ripped off one side. Before i got the new ones the other side ripped off, and now the new set got the pads ripped off the metal. I figured the first time was because maybe the guy put cheap ebay junk pads on it. But the ones i put on where quality EBC jobs and they lasted about an hour. Any input as to what i should check out appreciated, or whether i should get a normal looking brake rotor.

So i recently picked up a banshee with 4 mil shortrod, shaved head, viforce reeds, agressive dune port, 34 mm carbs etc. It has Gnarly pipes on it which i am removing and installing CPI's within the next week and a half since thats what the motor is built for. I'm running Sunoco 112 fuel in it at 32:1. I was told it was definately running rich on top from the previous owner, and it had 310s in it. Now i took them out and put 290s in it and when i take it down the road wide open it goes good. Now theres a little piece of woods i bring it in and if i dump the clutch wide open once its warm 1st or 2nd(all i can get into there) it breaks up. Is this a lean condition? breaking up under a load at wide open. I'm putting CPIs on it soon and will rejet but for now id like it to be right so i can go riding without worrying. I can only get into 3rd or 4th down the road so i guess i cant plug chop correctly. Would tuning it be made harder because theyre low-mid pipes on a top end motor? So my question is should i throw the 300s in it?

by the way heads are fresh with all new parts and the cam and dizzy are brand new

I have a 460 block, ported d3 heads with bigger intake valve, matching cam, and factory ford distributor curved for application. RPM Performer Edlebrock intake. a brand new QuickFuel 750cfm carb annular boosters, a brand new CRP(?forget the company name, def quality tho) electric water pump, crane severe duty rocker arms and push rods. C6 has valve body and something else forget, but it was used was said to need front clutch bands but otherwise strong. This is all high quality stuff. With KB flat tops (9.8:1 compression-street gas) its a 500hp combo with very very good street manners. With a more wild cam and intake, more hp etc. I'm located in New Jersey...central towards the coast. The block is a complete engine(good crank etc) that isnt torn down. taking offers of kick butt parts for a banshee(long travel suspension setup, etc) i know the value of it all and am not dying to give it all away, but i will take serious partial trades, and even an even trade for the right stuff. Kyle If this is the wrong section let me know will also consider a big bore 4 stroke bike, atc250r....4x4 quad?...

I'll take them if theyre still for sale...PM me with payment info

If theyre not sold let me know about the pipes id like to take them off your hands

I just bought a Banshee that has FMF Gnarly pipes on it. Now this bike has a 4mm crank and an aggressive dune port/race fuel head big ol carbs. So in my mind it is stupid to keep these pipes on here correct? Would I see a huge gain with Shearers? Now whats the value on a set of Gnarly pipes with silencers, all in great shape? I do some trail riding some pit riding...but i ride hard either wot or no throttle. If these Gnarlys are really choking it down i'll ditch em in a heartbeat. Thanks a lot Kyle