kessig4x4

Okay if i keep it im getting rid of those i'll let you know

In addition to all of that is trenched/bored cases and 10 mil hot rids crank i just purchased from asnaper still in mail $2600 firm or i'll finish Thanks Kyle more small parts not in pictures

no to $2000

I lost my phone in the bay, I'll get pictures of everything tomorrow though Thanks Kyle

Not at this moment, I'd like to see if anyone would like to/be able to take everything. There's a load of parts and the bike doesnt need much to be put together, i'm just getting closer to getting my license back and wouldn't mind pulling the extra cash to put towards a work truck, but i don't have the patience to part things out individually, would rather kust finish it and ride at that point. I will definately let you know if my motives change and i sell those individually. Thanks Kyle

There is no complete engine. Also only really listed to see if someone wanted to purchase the whole lot to either complete it or too part it out themselves and make a few bucks. If no one wants the complete lot I will continue to buy the few items I need and finish the bike Thanks Kyle

I would consider selling all of my Banshee stuff as a whole to put towards a solid work truck if anyone would be interested. 1996 Banshee, white and teal plastic and black plastic with white oversize tank, complete rolling chassis with +2 axle, +2+1 a arms fully adjustable, chrome peeling off bottom ones, yfz450 shocks revalved, prm bumper, new brake caliper rear, +4 swingarm regular carrier aluminum grab bar, factory air box with KN filter, Blackwater tires on polished aluminum rims, stocks style front tires in excellent shape on stoock rims, I believe its just a revalved stock banshee rear shock, braided brake lines, asv levers, trail tech lights Engine parts include- 72.5mm bore Cheetah top end with powervalves, polished (exterior)and ported with pistons rings intakes. 10 mil hot rods crank with matching trenched cases(currently in shipping), full stock trans still in a set of matched cases, and another set of stock matched cases, CT Racing sectional TT/ Flat track big bore expansion chambers and silencers/stingers, timing plate, 1 full electrical system and misc parts Extra parts- stock carbs, 1 extra primed frame, have all stock suspension parts, a arms, swingarm, etc, braking systems, radiator, some other odd and ends, paddle tires on painted black rims, stock type tires worn on painted stock rims, 18" kenda klaw tires, 18" ohstu honda 400 tires on honda rims, an axles, etc ====Engine needs trans cut, lockup clutch, seals and gaskets, carbs and assembly. Would also reccomend aftermarket water pump==== Everything is used but well maintained Includes even more parts than are listed. I was thinking 2600 cash would be reasonable for everything or else i'll just finish it. Not looking to sell parts individually. I am not positive whether pictures are required but my phone is down, I could find a way to get pictures of everything if serious buyer arrises or just come look at it. [email protected] , or PM

Price/Picture on swingarm Thanks Kyle Edit- Nevermind saw picture

Sure you don't want to put a big block in your stang I have 500hp worth of 460 laying around lol... I have a real nice brand new 750 cfm quick fuel carb if your interested in a partial trade I think thats the only thing that'd work on your car if its carburaeted

Yeah im getting a quote for my brothers buddy to glass bead my frame and cases for me and I'll just powdercoat them

Yeah, I can't decide whether to prep really good and spray with quality HOK products nice and thick, and end up with enough to do it again when it starts looking chitty or to go through the headache of sandblasting and powdercoating it. I would think paint would hold up real good on a frame. My black painted frame still looks great. Frames don't seem to get hit with too much imo, until your carelessly wrenching on stuff. And I agree with some tough tractor paint lasting a long time, or rustoleum with hardener. Hopefully HOK stuff is as tough as I want it to be. To think of it, we painted kart frames and raced them dirt oval relentlessly with good results. IDK i don't think quality paint gets the credit it deserves sometimes Than again i just don't feel like sandblasting my frame....

Idk, I don't run a key thats up to you, it's easy to eliminate, but i would probably keep it, considering putting one back in mine. The wires do come out of all the weatherproof connectors and you can cut & put new end on them and reinstall the connections if you're looking to just shorten wires. I thought you where just eliminating wires.

If you don't understand it completely I wouldn't play with it too much. I took mine out and eliminated all sorts of things. It takes some time and patience, a little bit of headache, and some studying of the wiring diagram. All it really need is the few ignition wires, the wires running to a kill switch, and lighting wires(if desired). The ground wires also all run back to the stator as well. Mine came out pretty neat, but i wouldn't mind completely rewiring the whole thing from scratch now.

I'd consider buying next week if they're still sittin around unspoken for

Nevermind on pictures, you just had a few posted Oh , and I dropped my phone in the bay 2 days ago I can call later though Thanks

Send PM on cases and crank very onterested/serious... Send me some pictures if you can on here or [email protected] Thanks man, Kyle

supposd to run a different base gasket maybe? whats the setup or did you already figure out the issue

Howd you get it to do that haha did you put stock pistons on 115 rods or something

I'm not sure about Banshees subframe diameter but I know on a dirtbike I made a sheetmetal airbox for and just powdercoated, a nice clean looking set of bar clamps where perfect size and could hang a mounting tab from em

Yeah the lockup is a definate, and a billet basket...I will call a shop that does the trans work, but I do want to figure out some kind of a plan before I get someone on the phone and settle on one set up or another. I definately will be on the trails "cruising" as much as i'm in a pit. I've been told people have had luck on duneables being on trails here and there, but I want to at least retain 1st, and I don't want the headache of potentially hurting my trans after giving it a good brap and letting off without the clutch in immediately.

Okay building a decent little Cheetah engine and I don't want to tear back into it once i finally get it together...The duneable transmission peaks my interest but I always see 2-5 duneable override etc... Does this mean 1st and 6th are removed from the transmission or that i can use 1st and 6th but they are a normal gear. I mean I know your not going to be powershifting into 1st but i could see how it would be eliminated for launches. I've also seen talk about a pro mod trans. Now whats this all about. I would like to be able to shift quickly but i'm not doing any racing so the tenth it takes to use the clutchd or the extra effort put in when not using it i could live with. I also want it to hold up to the motor, this is no drag bike, no on the edge competition stuff, i imagine i'll get a nice round 90-100 out of it once tuned in by what im seeing. All opinions are appreciated Thanks Kyle

I'll sell the plastic set up with tank and seat cover $250 shipped Set of Graydon nerf bars Stock carburaetors, could use a good cleaning, will do it soon myself, one has no top piece that screws on and the other has top and TORS deal one good factory headlight will throw in other one for parts uncut wiring harness 1998 70 shipped with cdi etc hydraulic brake systems with calipers and e brake straight axle swingarm with skid plate stock good rear shock white spring good a arms good ball joints spindkes hubs etc Email [email protected] PM's arent working I will check out stator i have one just want to make sure its all good Thanks kyle

I see the question a lot, and I asked about it a month or two ago myself. I'm not an expert on the topic but maybe this will clear up the difference between those who are not sure. Here is a picture of an FMF Fatty next to a hand built BB pipe... Notice the Flange area compared to the first cone, SB is dramatically smaller compared to flange, BB is the same size as the actual flange on the cylinder. If anyone wants to embelish on this topic so its all written down in one place, such as CC requirements, power differences, Shearer and CPI BBvsSB differences have at it. -Kyle

Carbs sold pending payment