kessig4x4

UPP intakes still have the fittings for the crossover tube at least i ran one on 34 mm carbs

07737 New Jersey .... PMs returned -Rebuildable 4 mil Crank Sold

I got a different plastic setup for my banshee selling these, Not sure how shipping is on on them so I don't want to agree to a shipped price.... These are used but fairly new, some scrapes and scratched but overall great shape and shiny Rear Maier Black fenders Front "Race Cut" Maier Black fenders CUT TO FIT TANK White Oversize tank, sanded down because it was painted, could use going over with light grit or just painting Factory 1998 Red radiator shroud with factory black grill Seat cover with skulls and lightning bolt on sides and gripper top I also have a complete minus most engine parts stock 1998 Banshee I will part out, uncut harness, cdi, brake setups, solid frame, swingarm, good rear shock, a arms with good ball joints tie rods etc... one FMF fatty right hand side a lot of surface rust, would be good to sand and paint good if you have one thats dented 2x 34mm Mikuni Carbs with intakes, aftermarket reeds, reed spacer, 125 shipped 4 mil crank needs rebuild 60 bucks shipped 64.5 bore factory cylinders Wildcard aggressive dune porting, one needs resleeved or maybe very large over bore 150 shipped Sorry if i'm required to have prices on all parts let me know, pictures upon request Thankyou Kyle Picture of plastic-

Awesome because I just went through my whole harness and got rid of all extra wires and replaced the boogered up ones before I decided this and put them in some nice sleeving. Glad I don't have to go back through for much modification. Great tip on the HID bulbs too. Thanks Kyle

What happens when I have Trail Tech headlights and my bike has already been wired for DC power, but I want to put factory lights back on my bike? I've never run the factory light because i got the bike with Trail Techs on it and don't know how they compare. But I like the large sized light look better. If i can't run the factory lights on DC is there a popular alternative light of equal size? Or is it simple enough to switch it back to AC. (I'm good and comftorable with wiring, just redid my whole harness, just unsure how to un-float the ground and what to do with the rectifier etc) I'm sure thats more than enough to get what I'm trying to find out acrossed maybe with a little too much info, but any help appreciated... Thanks

no one needs 34mm carbs cheap??

You are buying air box boots correct? so no...140 with intakes

125 shipped

4 mil crank with 110 rods, bearing on flywheel side and 2 in center make some noise, rods have a little side to side play and have some metal in the needle bearings, had metal in bottom end. Is this good for anyone for a rebuild or should i toss it in the scrap pile? Kyle

Anyone want em

I do have UPP manifolds and the rubbers for carb to airbox, 180 for all that shipped. -I have the reeds and cages and the billet spacers as well. I was planning on hanging onto them until the top end I purchased gets here to see what parts I'll hang onto and/or get rid of. --Thanks, Kyle

2 34mm Mikuni carbs. Theyre not flat slide, not sure what theyre called, d-slide maybe. Pretty good shape, one is missing 2 screws out of 3 for fuel bowl, I imahine i could come acrossed some or they can be picked up for a few cents. Otherwise no problems. 300 main jets, will come with 290s and 310s as well. Looking for $150 paypal'd for the pair, a +2 fatbar steering stem, or a lockup clutch cover. -Kyle

seem to fit the BB requirements, as far as the inlet of the headpipe and stinger pipes size....looks like ill stick with em, Thanks a lot Volfan

Awesome, thanks! Everything is at work so i'll check it all over tomorrow morning. If they're little guys i'll most likely put em up on the for sale section before the days over.

But if someone could get me an inside or outside diameter of a regular old banshee stinger pipe id appreciate it.

Well i'm getting the powervalve cylinders off quadpro on here i forget the numbers but its going to be over 500cc's...I still have just about the whole motor ahead of me but i think i'll be able to get it done relatively quickly. I guess I'll give the pipes a shot on it, they definately have some big chambers and pulled real hard on my 4 mil over the fmf's. Just trying to figure out what i should sell and keep. I always thought there where more substantial differences between sb and bb until i looked into it. After its all together I'll have to get a used set of BB's and if they're better sell em both and get a new set maybe. This is my first big banshee motor so im trying to get experienced advice on everything as I go. I'm going to try to find an organized climb or 2 for it when i'm done, and really, its just going to be an all around play bike, thats fast as hell. I'll get some pictures up once i get the motor somewhat sealed

Oh...I heard the stinger had to be bigger to let the heat out effieciently...Anyone else with some info on this wanna help me out? I mean i guess the best thing to do would be ditch em and get some proven pipes for a big motor, but I love the handmade pipes over the stamped out ones, Im even hoarding one away from my old atc250r for when i get another haha if that helps

Hey guys, had a 4 mil engine and got these handmade pipes by CT racing. I like them a lot, a very good mid-top pipe. Now I have my engine torn apart and am starting a 10 mil build, but I'm not sure if i "can" keep the pipes or not. I want everything to be right. So if someone could give me the stinger diamater of a small or big bore pipe so i can make a comparison i would really appreciate it Thanks Kyle

With the head if your selling that too, PM if you want Kyle

Hey what are you looking to get for the top end Kyle

I just read on the MM atv site that the 72mm requires case boring, which i havent read anywhere else...At that point id might as well bump it up to a 10mil stroker which i dont plan on doing. So i guess thats why you dont here of em as much as a 68 bore. Unless that was only referring to a 10 mil stroke which was unclear because theyre in the same subject area

Cool, yeah i was looking at some cub cylinders but im still shopping around. From what i remember seeing it seems like the pistons are about a hundred bucks more when you buy replacements, but i could live with that. I will probably go with the 72mm bore. Because like you said theres no replacement for displacement. I would probably need to get one of those nice expensive radiators right? Im not sure id be comftorable with one of those 100 dollar ebay ones on it

Are there any cons to running a set of 72mm cylinders on a 4 mil short rod engine versus running 68mm cylinders? I mean if there aftermarket cylinders than overheating shouldn't be an issue because the manufacturer should've compensated for the larger bore size correct? Any information would be helpful thankyou

Okay cool i'll send that right over, been a while since i used paypal so i might take a little bit to re-figure it out.

do you have a kickstarter by any chance