turbowrenchhead

I found a place to get a good run in that's not to far from home. I started with 320 mains. After an hour and 3 jet changes I'm getting closer. The weather started to turn cold. I've got 360 mains in it and I have some brown on the plug. I'll go back when its 80 degrees. Yesterday was only 50. 30-40 degrees will surely effect the jetting.

3. Trevor Olive A

I'm trying to set up my suspension for mostly trail riding. I do like running the mx pro courses when I have the chance. I have a nice set of stock yfz450's in the front and I had my rear rebuilt by GT speced out to the bike. I took some measurements according to GT's site. What should the numbers be? How to measure ride height: There are 2 places you need to measure from the bottom of the frame to the ground (with rider standing on the pegs): 1) Right at the foot pegs 2) 22 inches forward from foot pegs To measure ride height - the rider must be standing on the foot pegs and the measurement needs to be taken from the bottom of the frame to the ground at the 2 points mentioned above. How to measure race sag. 1. Race sag is the amount the quad settles from fully extended with the rider on board. First, put the quad up on a stand, measure the distance from the axle (vertically) to some point on the sub frame (make a mark if you need to). 2. Take the quad off the stand, put the rider on board standing on the pegs, have the rider hold onto something for balance, bounce up and down a little to stabilize the rear end. Now again measure the distance from the axle to the point on the sub frame where you took the measurement in #1. 3. Now deduct the measurement from #2 from the measurement in #1. This is your RaceSag. 4. To adjust Race Sag tighten or loosen the preload adjusting collars. If you have too much race sag, you need more preload, too little race sag you need less preload. My measurements: Race sag 3 1/2 inches Ride height Peg 9 3/16" Front 9 5/8"

Good to know

And where do I get a harness side connector?

I just looked up one of his recent posts. He has a group buy going on but it doesn't include 87-94

I'm in the market for a 87 stator

Your probably right. Better off the the original then.

This is what I went off from GT's site: How to measure ride height: There are 2 places you need to measure from the bottom of the frame to the ground (with rider standing on the pegs): 1) Right at the foot pegs 2) 22 inches forward from foot pegs To measure ride height - the rider must be standing on the foot pegs and the measurement needs to be taken from the bottom of the frame to the ground at the 2 points mentioned above. How to measure race sag. 1. Race sag is the amount the quad settles from fully extended with the rider on board. First, put the quad up on a stand, measure the distance from the axle (vertically) to some point on the sub frame (make a mark if you need to). 2. Take the quad off the stand, put the rider on board standing on the pegs, have the rider hold onto something for balance, bounce up and down a little to stabilize the rear end. Now again measure the distance from the axle to the point on the sub frame where you took the measurement in #1. 3. Now deduct the measurement from #2 from the measurement in #1. This is your RaceSag. 4. To adjust Race Sag tighten or loosen the preload adjusting collars. If you have too much race sag, you need more preload, too little race sag you need less preload. My measurements: Race sag 3 1/2 inches Ride height Peg 9 3/16" Front 9 5/8"

How much do they run?

I figure a new aftermarket stator is probably much better then the original stator. Anyone ever run one of these stators? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magneto-Stator-Yamaha-BANSHEE-350-YFZ350-1987-1994-1988-1989-1990-1991-1992-1993-/160832573080?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25725e4e98&vxp=mtr

There is also very little sag from fully extended to relaxed. Its only a 1/2" or so. I heard that you want it to sag more then that from a full extended position.

I filled out a spec sheet.

Back to the subject at hand. I installed the shock yesterday. The race sag is better. Before it was 6" when I sat on it and the preload was full max. Now I have the GT and I have the preload cranked down to about 80% and I have 4" of race sag. So its an improvement.

Hopefully I'll get it on later today after my work is done.

I got my rebuilt from GT back today. They shipped back the old parts. The shaft looks fine. Perhaps it is bent ever so slightly. I don't have a true flat surface or dial indicator to check it. The spring is only .6mm larger in diameter then the stock one. The one I have on the bike now has a 1mm larger diameter spring on it and the race sag is 6". I'm skeptical that this shock is going to solve that.

Yeah, I'm sure no one would call the cops

UMMM...... Matt turned me down because of this post.

I found a couple of dead ends west of me about 10-15 miles out. I have to go check them out to see if its something that will work for me. I want to be able to bring my jets and several plugs so I can rejet on the spot.

Living in the city has disadvantages. After 3 years of looking I still don't have a place that is close that I go ride my quad to perform plug chops to dial it in. If anyone in the area knows of a place I would greatly appreciate them sharing it with me.

So I sent my original shock into GT. They quoted me $180 for re spring and re valve. They charged my paypal carb $215. I assume the extra $20 was for shipping. A few days later another charge for $89 comes through. No call or notice. Just went ahead and charged it. I called them and asked. They stated that the shaft was bad. I stated that they should of called and oked the repair. They didn't seem to give a shit. The guys reply was "Do you want us to take it out?" in a negative tone of voice. I said no, however they could of called to ok the charge. So now I have over $300 into the rear shock. I'm in business for myself working on cars/trucks and whatever. I never just go a head and fix something without the customers approval. Apparently GT thinks they are above this.

Round 4: New choke plunger, choke tube between carbs. 25 pilot's w/ air screw 1/4 turn out, 320 mains. New dealer bowl gaskets and bowl screws. Idles nice now, has good throttle response. The power band is much smoother then the single carb. Looks like I will be selling a Exciter 440 intake.

I'll be tuning via plug chop for now. Too much other items I need.

Sounds like more time and $ then its worth.

I poked around on the net. I seen one called Koso. However looks like you need battery 12 volts DC power.