Mustang_Gay81

Im with you on that to a point but for hoses? Come the fuck on???? So if i was to go to a parts store and buy hose in bulk or bought a set off ebay with a 1 yr warranty and used either of them youre seriously telling me its going to be inferior in some way to a $100 set from joe blow?How exactly are these so much better?What because theyre transparent? I guess its true what they say "FOOLS AND THEIR MONEY SOON PART" If you feel better spending 100 bucks on something that does little more than flow coolant be my guest but i still say its fucking ignorant! While youre at it maybe some washer nozzle led's and TYPE R badges are in order with those hoses?

Some nice fox bodies here!

Lmfao its the angle of the pic. Maybe youd know that had your racist old man not came across your head so many times over that rc cola?

Yay!you can speak english congratulations! If i were you id be happy i bought them that probably fed your family for 6 months in that third world country you came from guy.so be thankful i saved your mother and sisters from having to sell anymore ass :-) Btw thats a factory style spoiler

I remember you didnt you get kicked off blaster forums for your continual homosexual advances on members? Yea im sure its you you even had the same gay ass hulk bull shit. So this is where you ended up huh?i hope youre not up to your old tricks and sexually harassing members here as well! Well just in case you are or you have forgotten no i dont want to see pix of large objects youve stuck up your ass.

Riiiiiight.....WTFE that means.

LOL its fords factory rice wing from the cobra R i like it

This is my most recent i traded a 92 tbird with a 3.8 i replaced the topend on and rebuilt the aod traded it for this 84 lx coupe.It came with a 3.8 i yanked it and stuffed in a 302 .060 over i had with a bunch of spare parts i had on the shelf bbk shorties,upr x pipe,torquer 289,edl 600,complete v belt setup off a 84 f150,c4 from a 78 tbird i rebuilt,2000 dayco stall,8.8 with 3.08 gears. The cars just a home for all the spare parts i acquire.Theres nothing too fancy on it just a dash board,a console with a b/m ratchet shifter,and 2 bucket seats.Theres a set of dyno max race bullets dumping off the x pipe so it sounds like a pair of shot guns. When all is said and done itll be silver with black stripes.

Me second one is actually my first car that i held onto all these years it was originally a 2.3/a4ld car and now its got an 88 roller block,afm B-41 cam,full mac lt,h pipe,mac cat back,frpp 1.6 rr,ported GT40P heads,pp high rise intake,home made serpentine setup,9qt pan,frpp crank/rods,trw forged flat top pistons,150 shot edl-7001,sub frames,pa c4 reverse manual vb,2200 stall,acme driveshaft,frpp 8.8,frpp 4.10's. http://s1115.photobucket.com/albums/k556/Mustang_Guy81/?action=view&current=foxbodies7.jpg http://s1115.photobucket.com/albums/k556/Mustang_Guy81/?action=view&current=foxbodies8.jpg

Any other mustang owners here?Ive had a bunch through out the years something like 27 to be exact most fox bodies since those are one of my favorites.I currently own 3 since thats all i have space for unfortunately. First is my daily driver in the warm weather.Its a 1996 GT vortech V1 at 9lbs,bbk 78mm TB,lowered 2in,sub frames,4.30's,upr x,flowmaster cat back.Pretty fun little daily driver especially stop light to stop light http://s1115.photobucket.com/albums/k556/Mustang_Guy81/?action=view&current=GT3.jpg

Im rocking a set of red colored high temp hoses from ebay 37 bucks.http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-YFZ350-Banshee-82-06-radiator-hose-YFZ-350-silicone-hose-RED-NEW-/130678256815?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e6d07f4af Seems kind of expensive at a 100 bucks to see the coolant.Almost seems "RICER" like IMO.

As another new guy here i just asked this question last week. A lot of info here just search i read posts on here 2 months before ever even registered. All my questions were answered by searching so i never had to register my shee was all but done before i registered. If youre that sensitive just search bro most questions have been asked a 100 times before.That being said there are a desecent amount of smart ass punks here but thats anywhere you go these days on or off line just a reality.

The "R" or resistor plug is only for RF interference you dont run a radio on your shee do you?If not that dont matter either is fine the part thats important is the heat range. NGK is the only plug manufacturer thats backwards on their heat ranges.Instead of going down in the numbers like everyone else does for colder heat ranges they go up.BR8ES is a hotter plug than a BR9ES.The reason for a colder plug would be to keep detonation down with higher compression ratios. As for premix stay 32.1 going to a 20.1 and so on will lean you out and require jetting changes to be made.

I did the same on mine but i ran mine along the frame away from heat and where you cant see it. I wrapped it back up in electrical tape after eliminating the stuff i didnt need or want then used wire loom and routed it along the frame .

Any pics of the mechanical gauge setups you guys are running? I too want to install one and am looking for ideas.

So wait!!! Youre running a cdi with an advance in the timing curve already as well as the timing plate advanced?That would definately be a source of detonation. However if you had 2 cranks done by reputable builders id say your cases would have to be the issue.At the very minimum id have the cases lapped so they matched. Also it could be a rare one off issue maybe the mold shifted a little when it was casted and offset the crank?Cranks do flex under loads. when you assemble the engine does the rotating assembly spin freely?Does it drag any where when you spin it over.

Thats a pretty generic answer.I fully understand the workings of an igition set up but how is the engine going to fire before the piston reaches TDC unless the flywheel has slipped?The cdi is dependent on the two pick up tabs on the flywheel and the pick up coil so again as i said unless his flywheel slipped advancing the ignition i dont see how the ignition can detonate on its own.Detonation comes from high compression ratios and the wrong fuel and overly advancing timing ive never heard of an ignition source being the source of detonation care to elaborate on this?

Im game how is this possible? This doesnt make sense.The only way i could see this possible is if his flywheel has slipped advancing the timing but again that dont make sense again because both times he smoked a motor it was the same issue same side.Somethings not right for sure but i doubt its electrical. But please explain...

Not had it out too far other than the acess road but they seem to grab rather well. Idk about ghetto but i like the ss112's now had i put 20's on it lmfao that would be ghetto but thanks appreciate it.

I should have the new 27.5-30 pilots and k&n filter tomorrow so i can dial it in.Ill be swapping in the 280 mains instead of the current 270's but putting the stock jet needles back in fixed 90% of the issues i had. Guess that perfect jet kit shit isnt all its cracked up to be and especially for the price.

At what levels of performance and mods are you guys having crank failures?

It would run like trash id think since youd have serious detonation issues. It would sound like an empty paint can with the ball vearing rattling around when it detonates.

Going to a 21cc dome and an aftermarket along with porting how unstable does the crank become?Ive heard mixed feelings on the stock cranks durablility. Im not welded or anything like that i basically went through the engine/trans and fixed or replaced what it needed and then did a stock bore topend with wiseco pro lites and bolt ons. I care more about reliability than high hp.Dont get me wrong i dont want it to be no slouch but wheres the line drawn on the stock crank psi wise and mods wise.

Banshee has the simplest trans to work on of any bikes or atvs ive had shouldnt be hard once you open it up to see whats not playing well with the others.