jriffe23

how much for one of those a arm frames?

What are the advantages and disadvantages of have a powervalve chettah verse a non powervalve?

Any on had experience with hydraulic clutch?? Personal experience preferably but i would like to see what people have to say about them.

First problem, Namura pistons. Should have went with wiseco. Have you tried a leak down test? You can build a tester very quick, and there is a thread here that will explain how to build one. Doesnt sound like your carbs were a big problem, but what are you talking about burned the lights when you rev it??

Okay sounds good, and yes drag only

I have an update on my build. I have decided on a few things that will be added to the list. I originally was going with stock swinger style but with input from a few people here i have decided on a +12 round house carrier style swinger. Also to go along with the driveline performance lock up, im going with a F.A.S.T. racing clutch. With my budget getting larger, the time its going to take to complete is going to be longer. Originally i was going to use a stock head milled for a 4 mil, but i have a coolhead laying around so im going to use it. Ill soon be calling F.A.S.T. to see if they can hook me up with some 18cc 4 mil cut domes, so obviously im going to use race gas. Also going with some billet intakes for 39mm carbs that are set up for vforce 2's. Now here is where my questions arise, should i stick with the v2's or get v3's or v4's, ive saw a lot of guys that swear by the v2's so what should i do on reeds for this 4mil stock cylinder setup? Also the ebay pod filters any good? They are similar to the k&n expect you can get them 14 inch long, are those a good idea?

Same exactly on my part

Again, im on a budget, i cant afford a round carrier yet

This post has to be the best on the whole forum. Definitely true, can't make power without money and thats just the way it is.

Moto build with a long swinger? thought you wanted it semi stock of shorter for moto build??

I say drag build. Just opinion. They look nice, but the market may be slim for people looking for a drag specific or mx specific build. IMO find somebody that wants it and build what they want. You maybe get a better penny out of it. Only problem is that person will need a budget and you still want to make some profit so keep that in mind. I would love doing this for people but i would want money up front so i know i wasnt sinking all my money into something that they ended up say to hell with. Just an idea.

i want this done to my swiss cheese frame

I agree but why buy it when you arent making enough power to need it? Make perfect sense to me

yes its a 4 mil stock cylinder drag build. Basically poor boys drag build. Any ideas how it will actually run? Will i be impressed based on my experience on my mainly stock trail bike with t5's and coolhead pwk 28's???

Thank you! LOL

What are your motor mods?

Do a compression test on them. Trust me they need to be done. I wouldnt share with the buyer that it has that long on a top end, you'll never sell it. Good luck though. Its a 2-stroke, meaning its meant to need to be rebuilt. $3500 is too much. Drop it to maybe $2000 or lower and you might sell it. Good day.

if i flip them around they literally look like the banshee has stacks. lol so im definitely sure that they are mounted on the correct side. the peg mounting tab is faced down.

Maybe on down the road ill do that, but for now its the ole swiss cheese.

Im going to start a thread on my mild drag build. My budget is not extremely huge so im going with 4 mil hot rod crank on stock cylinders full drag port, vforce v2's, FTZ out of frame pipes, timing plate at +5 and hopefully get my hands on some PWK 39's here pretty soon. I only get the chance to work on it every once in awhile. I picked it up in the St Louis area for under $1000 just needed to be put together. For the most part it is all there but of course there are a few things i will be needing. Now after getting a good look through the parts, here is my running list of what ill be needing: (Feel free to let me know if you have any of it forsale) PWK 39's 65.00 Pistons Swingarm bolt and nut 3 point a-arm setup +10 or +12 swingarm stock carrier set up rear brake disc pro design 4 mil cut domes driveline performance lockup So that is the major parts of my build and i will keep this thread up to date as i work on it. The only things that are really done so far are the steering stem in place with handle bars and the bottom end complete besides the driveline clutch which will come when i have the funds for it. I do have the cylinders on right now without pistons so i could get an idea of what the pipes will look like on it. I'll keep this updated and maybe i can get some parts that you have laying around off your hands.

Im going to start a thread on my mild drag build. My budget is not extremely huge so im going with 4 mil hot rod crank on stock cylinders full drag port, vforce v2's, FTZ out of frame pipes, timing plate at +5 and hopefully get my hands on some PWK 39's here pretty soon. I only get the chance to work on it every once in awhile. I picked it up in the St Louis area for under $1000 just needed to be put together. For the most part it is all there but of course there are a few things i will be needing. Now after getting a good look through the parts, here is my running list of what ill be needing: (Feel free to let me know if you have any of it forsale) PWK 39's 65.00 Pistons Swingarm bolt and nut 3 point a-arm setup +10 or +12 swingarm stock carrier set up rear brake disc pro design 4 mil cut domes driveline performance lockup So that is the major parts of my build and i will keep this thread up to date as i work on it. The only things that are really done so far are the steering stem in place with handle bars and the bottom end complete besides the driveline clutch which will come when i have the funds for it. I do have the cylinders on right now without pistons so i could get an idea of what the pipes will look like on it. I'll keep this updated and maybe i can get some parts that you have laying around off your hands.

why did my thread turn into people arguing about a facebook post???

Okay so here is the problem. First of all the places where the springs do not look like they are in the correct spots or maybe there is a different way to mount out of frames (first set ever). Now i put one spring on and you can see what happens. I dont understand why the other spring holder is not on the bottom like any other inframe pipe. Usually the inframes have one on top of the pipe and another one farther up the pipe but directly under it, but the FTZ are like an inch from eachother. And the second problem i see is the space between the foot peg and the pipe, i have seen some pipes that need a mount built because they sit farther away from the peg so thats probably the solution to that problem but my main question was where to i put the springs so these are mounted up correctly? is there a specific way to do out of frame pipes?