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Posts posted by Uf21
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Ok…..EVERYONE can do whatever you want. Free country.
I simply stated that I can ride around in some pretty serious shit with pods.
I've ridden in water deep enough to cover the tops of my boots. Granted, I'm not pinned in 4th gear…..but if your blasting through big puddles or large areas of standing water and you're doing it at high speed without knowing what lies beneath the surface…..well, good luck with that.
Now a couple of quick points -
If your bike is bone stock…..run the air box with the lid..…who gives a crap.
If your bike has pipes….the air box lid will actually hinder performance. (In other words…jetting for lid off would need to be different than with lid on. If you can't feel the difference….than your jetting is off entirely)
If your bike has more mods….the box itself and the filter design begins to be an issue. (Even with the lid off)
If you have porting, stroke, big bore, aftermarket cylinders or any combo of those….the air box is a killer.
So I'm speaking from the perspective of having NOTHING in my stable of Banshees that makes less than 63HP. So if I run a box on anything…..all the mods are a waste.
If you have anything more than pipes…..the box is cutting into the power. If you are aware of that and don't care…..neither do I.
Carry on boys.
Me and my mates go through rivers and the depth almost covers the whole Tyre and we've never had issues though we use a k&n with a lid and no snorkel.
Hasn't anyone seen those videos on youtube where guys goes through rivers where the water literally is up to the seat?
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Well change your jets and while you got the carbs off clean your carbs and clean the hole in the pilot jet with a piece of wire or something thin enough.
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bump
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Its just that with my fiances ltz 400 and her k&n setup the filter fit snug on the adapter without even having to tighten it. On my banshee when the filter was loose it seemed way too big. Whats up with the stock filter adapter mod? Is the k&n supposed to mount to it?
Below is the stock filter and what foam filter goes on.
With the stock filter mod what they do is cut off those thin fin looking bits and then like the pro flow the k&n goes over the lip and you tighten it on.
As said before. If it is tight and has no gaps then it is good and you shouldnt be worried.
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Its a 3502 k&n. Its tight. Can't pull it off. I'm good to go I guess.
Yeah youre good to go.
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I was concerned because the pro flow adapter was so mush smaller than the filter opening. I had to tighten it a lot to get it to fit. And i'm not entirely sure its fitting perfect.
If you can't pull it off with your hand then it's good.
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Wait. so they make some of the best engines in germany but theres no one to port an atv?
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if by pro flow you mean the pro flow adapter than thats good. Just tighten the gilter onto the pro flow and your good to go as long as the pro flow is screwed to the box.
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Where can I find a cheap air filter adapter, something that doesnt cost $40+ for a small piece of metal
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get rid of the +12 timing. no more than +4 needed. for the guy who trail rides on tight trails, where he/she can't get over 4th gear, than i would recommend the +4 timing for that, as it really helps the low-mid, but if you are able to be full out in 5th and 6th gear, than leave the timing stock, as your top end will be what its suppose to be. my $.02.
This is what gets me thinking I shouldnt bother with advancing timing.
I ride trails but a 50/50 of tight and wide trails and big open straighs, theres a alot of times where I am up in 5th and 6th and a lot of times where im in 2nd 3rd and 4th.
Every time I search up timing plate for banshees and see discussions, I always see people saying you lose top end and gain low end.
... The reason im worried about doing this mod or any mod is cause if the engine does fuck up, it is pretty expensive here to get an engine rebuilt.
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It's cheaper buying it overseas and getting it shipped than buying locally.... Australia aint cheap.
This is the one I got http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141183519488?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
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So does a stock engine see more benefit from advancing timing than say a motor that is ported and has all the other stuff like domes and whatnot?
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http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650
7th 8th and 9th pic down
The flat part of the key should be parallel to the ground not the taper on the shaft.
Thanks
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Half moon key that goes in the slot on the crank and flywheel. Keeps the flywheel from spinning on the crank. Bad shit happens if it ain't there.
Is there any pictures of the key and how it sits in the slot just so I get an idea?
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Nearly forgot about the flywheel puller. Just bought one, hopefully doesn't take too long to arrive.
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Come up to newcastle we have things called lighters and tv here,lol I have same timing plate very good shipping prices to aus from mattoon ebay store
I must visit one day, but walking will take a long time.
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Dmc 916 pipes aren't very easy to find used. Once in a while you will see them in the for sale section so just keep an eye out.
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"when the fly wheel pops off the key generally falls into the magnetic part of the inside."
What is this key he talks of? Whats it look like and where does it go when putting the flywheel back on?
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I think im just going to go either +2 or +3 just to be extra safe. Out of curiosity, is there any dyno or any tests done with stock vs aftermarket timing plate?
With the flywheel puller, will any flywheel puller (thats not a 3 jaw) work?
I was looking at this one (cheapest one on ebay) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FLYWHEEL-PULLER-TOOL-YAMAHA-BLASTER-BANSHEE-RZ350-/380851367686?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item58ac82af06
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Yes, I live in a 3rd world country, we don't get world news here. We hunt for food and start fires with stones and sticks.Do you live under a rock?!
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First time hearing of or buying from Mattoon
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UF, timing will net you some considerable throttle response as well as a little bit of torque down low, and depending on some set up its possible to get a slight gain top to bottom. Thing is, to much timing and the motor will fight itself on the top end. Detonation is also a common factor if someone is getting carried away with timing, so it's better for most folks to be pretty conservative when wicking the timing up.
So what is the chance of detonation with +3 or +4 timing?
Does advancing timing wear down the engine quicker?
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it increases your bikes low end performance.........after +4 timing, your running the risk of causing detonation in your motor and also losing a slight bit of top end performance as well.
So what you're saying is that it doesn't actually increase performance, it just shifts the power more low and less top?
Can someone chime in here and tell us if this true or not. I keep reading different opinions and don't know what to believe
Leak down tester
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