broke350

I guess I was wrong, or this banshee is allergic to actually being ridden. It's been starting just fine since my last post. Now I go to load it up to hit the dunes and the same old problem. Just ordered a CDI since another member on here described the same problem I'm having and a new OEM Stator didn't fix it. Everything else in the electrical system is brand new except the Stator and it tested good. Here's hoping I get to ride this damn thing sometime this year.

Ha, thanks for the pic. I actually sold my '05 a few years ago, same color scheme as the avatar pic. Bought it because I'd been looking for a clean '04 or '05 with that white/candy red combo. Put a bit of money into it and eventually sold it like a dumbass. I found my '95 surfing C-list for a decent price and didn't find out about the broken rear fender til I drove 45 minutes to get there. According to Rocky Mountain I could still get a new rear one, so I had the guy knock off that amount from his asking price and brought it home. The color scheme was the whole reason for buying this one and now it looks like that will have to change. Since the frame needs some cleaning and new color anyway, I may just tear it down and change the color completely.

Thanks for the update. I tried to get the '94 purple also and got the same response from RM. Discontinued. Oh well, I'll just do something different.

As for the kill switch. The factory handle bar switch works fine. I never have cared for the tether kill switches as I don't like splicing into the wiring and I don't make a habit of falling off my quads. I mainly want the key to work so I don't feel like I've wasted money on the relocation bracket and key switch.

It's got an OEM cdi box. The factory connectors and wires are intact.

In chasing down another electrical gremlin I installed a brand new Yamaha OEM key switch and a new wiring harness from JDM customs with one of their under the seat key/CDI/VR relocation brackets. Even with the new switch and harness, turning the key will not shut off the quad. Kill switch on the handlebar still works and kills it just fine. The original key switch wouldn't kill it either when I had the factory harness and key switch installed. Any ideas on what could be causing this?

Yep, just contacted Rocky Mountain thinking I might be in luck since they show the rears on their site. They confirmed the fenders are discontinued and can't be ordered. Guess I need to start thinking about a new color combo.

I've been looking for a set of purple rears for my '95, but haven't been able to find them on any of the online sites like MRcycles or bikebandit. Went to the dealership and they say discontinued. I'm concerned that even though they show on Rocky Mountain that I'll pay for them and weeks or months later I'll get an email and be told they're discontinued and eventually be refunded. The factory color scheme was one of the selling points for me buying this banshee. Are you able to verify through your contacts if the '95 purple rears are in fact being reproduced? I'd greatly appreciate it.

Looking for a good set of rears but would take a full set. Full or race cut is fine. Let me know if you've got any for sale.

Sure. Pm me your address and I'll send you my PayPal info. I don't need anything out of it, just enough to cover shipping.

It's fixed. Was something in the factory wiring harness. I replaced the coil and it started up fairly quick. Once I shut it off, it still wouldn't restart. So I replaced the harness with one from JDS customs and all is good now. Must've had a bad ground or connection. I couldn't find any broken wires. The new harness is a much cleaner piece anyway.

New plug boots installed and it still tests the same. I even checked my buddy's coil and it's the same also. 6,000 ohms without boots and over 15,000 with. Mine is the OEM coil where his is aftermarket. I remember him having some hard starting issues too. I guess I should order a new coil to see if that's the issue.

Tested compression and checked the resistance on the stator and coil, measured the pickup coil gap and all seems in spec except the secondary coil resistance. 120psi both cylinders completely cold .015 pickup coil gap 16.9 ohms resistance at the ignition coil 112.7 ohms at the pickup coil 0.3 ohms primary coil 15,000 ohms secondary coil wire to wire with the boots on 6,000 ohms wire to wire without the boots. According to the electrical FAQs, this means the boots are bad. Luckily new boots are the least expensive things to replace in the electrical system. Would too much resistance at the coil prevent or make it hard to kick start, while allowing it to be pull started and run fine once started?

Also just read through the electrical FAQs in this section. I think I should be able to figure out testing the stator. Just need to buy or borrow a multi meter once I run the compression test.

will do. Just need to go buy a tester now.

Thanks for the replies. I haven't even taken the stator cover off yet, but planned to anyway to replace the chain and sprockets. I don't have, nor do I know how to use a volt/ohm meter. I swapped out the kill switch, coil and key switch with my buddy's '97 and no change. But it does start and run eventually, so I would assume if these components were bad, it wouldn't start or run, even by pull starting it. I didn't pay any attention to the pilot jet sizes when I had them out, but did note the mains are 290's. I'll yank the carbs again to check the pilot size. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get a log book together to keep track of everything. I have the plastics and gas tank off and the wiring harness has much more electrical tape than I would like to see, so I'm going to buy another complete wiring harness. Supposedly this was a fresh rebuild, but I know you just can't trust anybody when it comes to a used machine. I'll grab a compression tester hopefully this weekend to verify the compression. Once I've got the harness installed and made sure all connections are good, would that narrow it down to the stator if it's still not starting properly? Assuming if the CDI was bad it just wouldn't run at all, right? I'm just stumped that it's so hard to start, but seems to run perfectly once it's running. All the lights work and they're not extra bright or dim, so I assume that's a good sign the voltage regulator is working? I also would've figured if it was fuel related it should still fire right back up after I shut it off. I can get it running great, idling fine, up to temp, kill it and try to immediately fire it back up and it just won't start. This is why I think it's an electrical issue but I'll admit I'm a complete novice.

First off, sorry if this is a stupid question. I've spent some time searching and found lots of threads on stator issues, but couldn't find the answer to my issue. I just bought my 95 banshee a few weeks ago. Stock with FMF's, TORS delete and pro design adaptor with no airbox lid. When I got to the guys house, it started first kick. Ran great on the test ride with no problems. I brought it home and it sat for about 2 weeks so figured I'd go fire it up. Started just fine. It sat for another week and now the damn thing is a real bear to start. When I finally can get it to start, it idles and runs great. I'll shut it off and try to immediately fire it back up and it won't restart. I waited over night and tried it again. Tonight I spent a good 30 minutes or so kicking it, replaced the plugs again, which were fuel fouled, kicked it some more and I can hear it hitting and trying to start. I get puffs of smoke out of the silencers, just no start. I've removed and cleaned the carbs thinking it might have been fuel related. Pulled and cleaned all the jets and passages, made sure the floats move freely, so the carbs should be good to go. Still won't start. Then I swapped a buddy's kill switch and coil just to be safe as it wasn't producing a noticeable spark last night. I can see a clear spark when arching the plug against the head now but still won't start. Finally we tried pull starting it behind my brother's pickup down our dirt road and it fired up and ran great. Idled right away, crisp throttle response, comes up on the pipes nice and clean with no sputters or hesitation at all. Pulled into the garage, shut it off and tried to kick start it back up and again no fire. Doesn't even sound like it's trying to start. After all that back story, I'm just curious if the stator is failing. All the other posts and videos I've seen, when a stator is crapping out, the bike runs like crap. Mine runs great once it starts. It's just like I can't kick the motor over fast enough to get it to start. Before I go throwing money at a new stator I wanted to check here to see if this is even the right direction to look.

Good seller. Kept in touch and quality parts.

Cool, I'll send you a pm. Thanks.

Probably a long shot, but still got it?

Sold, please delete.

As far as I can tell nothing's been done to the motor. Still has stock head and carbs with TORS. Only noticeable mods when I bought it 3 years ago were Toomey T5's, a Moose boost bottle, and K&N drop in filter. Has a gripper seat cover also. Things I've added: TM Designworks Case saver, new O-ring chain and front sprocket. New shifter seal, countershaft seal, and billet neutral switch blockoff. Chariot performance oversized aluminum waterpump impeller and black aluminum cover. Mull engineering billet waterpump drive gear. New oversized polished aluminum radiator and new hoses. Full Flight +2/+1 A-arms. It had some ugly graphics kit on it, so I stripped that off and put a mixture of factory 2004 and 2005 banshee decals on it. Replaced the radiator cover and tank covers with OEM Yamaha as the originals were beat up pretty bad. New bars/grips. Replaced the rear taillight assembly and stingers/silencers also. The previous owners didn't treat it very well, so my ownership has just been bringing it back to like new condition. All the items listed above have 2 trips to the dunes on them, otherwise brand new. I've had no problems with the quad, it runs and rides great. I've only had it out a total of 5 times since I've owned it and thinking I should just sell it to someone that can actually enjoy it. The only issues it has right now are a small burn hole in the rear plastic and melted side of the air box where it sat against the left side stinger. I've put some exhaust tape on the inside of the fender and adjusted the stinger to avoid contact. Also, the front bumper is missing. One of the mounting holes is mangled, but the other 3 appear to be good. Asking $2500.00 obo. Local pickup, or can meet within a reasonable distance. Thanks, Garrett

Thanks man. I bought the Chariot waterpump impellar/cover from a member here a while back. I'll grab one of those gears too and swap it all out together.

Countershaft seal, shifter shaft seal, and new neutral switch block off installed. Cleaning the engine and frame took longer than replacing the seals. New water pump impeller and a-arms are next. Hoping for this weekend. Thanks for all the responses guys.

Thanks again!! I'm gonna order some parts now.