ginger
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Posts posted by ginger
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just some info dump here.
OEM banshees dont have battery's, never have. They power everything off of the stater, the stater has a coil for spark, and one for the light circut. This being said it has to be running for the lights to work, You also need to have a voltage regulator, normally it is mounted to the frame on the back of the subframe, by the CDI box. IF not, the stater can put out too much power when you rev it and blow all the bulbs.
Only time you will see a Bat on a banshee is when someone put a DC conversion kit on, so they can have more power for a LED light bar, or to try some fuel injection stuff etc.
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Redline, and Fast are both really good. Herrs i have heard mixed reviews.
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im not sure where your second hole is, but the one on the top of the cases is so if the carbs leak or anything it doesnt pool on top of the cases.
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if its leaking through the one, thats by the rear of the cylinders, its most likely your carbs leaking and its working its way through.
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mine maybe warms up idle wise a minute, then it gets a little bit of a ride, maybe a football field length, then i beat on it.
Just preventing a cold seize is all.
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11 hours ago, PaymentPlan said:
Facts^^^^, If your building from scratch with top shelve parts, you can get above $20,000 quick. You wanna go deep in the game, you can get to $30,000.
i dont feel so bad about my build seeing these numbers. lol
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is it bone stock? just something most people are going to want to know before answering., Also how big of jumps are we talking?
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dont buy them if you dont have them. i only have them because they came on mine when i got it and have been waiting for them to break.
buy some good ones with a bushing where it meets the frame and a ball joint for the spindle.
the rod ends wear out and squeak like hell on the full flight setup.
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what are you trying to say popped out?
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if your that worried that things arent right, send it to a vendor here. most of them all they do is banshees, so everything will be perfect when you put it back in.
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10 hours ago, the boris said:
Also 5 degrees advance with 20cc domes Is pushing it at pump gas.
Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
its not just pump its mixed 50/50 with race gas. octane isnt the problem, the pitting and stuff is from a melt down or detination from a head leak, My guess is that you have a air leak somewhere and it sucked air on that cylinder causing it to melt down,
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its really hard to get paint to hold up well, between the flex and rocks it always ends up looking crappy.
You need to sand all the plastics and have a paint mixed up and sprayed with a lot of the stuff they put in it for flex, like what they paint car bumpers with. It wont stop rock chips and will most likely cost as much as plastics would
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i have them on my stock cylinder 4mil stroker, and love them,
best comparison is they are like a CPI pipe, but start pulling at a lower RPM and fall off before a cpi will. almost the same curve, just shifted to lower RPM.
I had to add teeth to the front sprocket because i would top out in my fields so fast.
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read around there is a lot on that depends on Mods, what type of riding you do ETC.
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why even ask what octane you have to run if your going to run coming thats around 20 higher than what you need.
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easy way to tell the pilot too is if it idles better with the choke on when warm then it needs bigger pilots, if it is worse, then you need smaller.
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if you want to save on labor, send the crank with the cylinders. its more then just welding they make sure it is true, and hasnt separated at all and that the rod bearings are still good.
Every time i have had a bottom end done, i sent the whole thing, that way it is pressure tested, and everything that may be worn or bent is replaced, Plus i just am not comfortable with the trans and think ill put it together wrong and have it stuck in a gear.
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Porting, compression, and timing, the only thing to be really concerned about is the crank. most people will have the crank welded so you dont have to worry about the added stress spreading it causing a failure.
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honestly when you have it ported, buy whichever head the guy porting stocks. tell him what octane fuel you want to run, and let him do that work. Most of them are smart enough or do custom machined domes.
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yes you can still use the stock head. most people just get a cool head at the same time to help bump up compression for more power as well.
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pretty much what everyone said. Pipes are like anything with a banshee, depends on your riding, SLP have a ton of bottom to mid. i had to take a ton of gear out and it pulls hard.
CPI or Shearer are great for dune or drag racing, minimal bottom end, but lots of top.
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mx or dune port is fine, i switched to 28s just because i think they are easier to work on then the stock.
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a dirty air filter, or a spark issue can cause this.
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it all goes off of what type of riding you plan on doing. i have a MXport/play and love it for my fields and in the woods. if you plan on doing the dunes more, you want a dune port.
Unless you are running the dunes or dragging a lot, stick with a smaller carb, stock/pwk28/pw33 smaller the carb, the better low end you are going to have, but you will lose some on the top end.
Overall figure out what type of riding you want to do, and everything is based off of that.
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SLP, FMF’s or T5.
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
out of your 3 you asked about SLP all the way. thats why i have way more power then my toomeys had