Socalcasedog

Well stop running it and check it all out. Obviously something major is wrong but be my guest an run it till it blows cause thats whats gonna happen if you keep pushing it. Youve wasted atleast 2 tanks of fuel already....i woulda stopped when I felt something wrong the first time

Top end: anything above the crankcase. Yes this includes your carbs. That being said id suggest you look at everything to make sure its all set right instead of potentially messing the engine up more by running it

Damn I hate having a touch screen cell lmao freekin figures hit everything at once lol

the company builds a 2nd wire into there system just as an added option. If you just ran the stock AC system you would only run one of the 2 wires to your regulator. The second wired gives you the option to add more lights. Im upgrading to some 4" HID lights so I had replace the regulator with the companies rectifier. I dont have to run both stator outputs but Im gonna kinds like a piggy back set up. Think we paid only $250 or so for the stator an recifier. Its a small company but Ive heard good things bout them. I went to get it in person and when I told them my plan the even floated the ground for me while I waited for free.

Hate yo say it but I think you might have several issues rearing their head. Id offer to help work on it but I dont think we live that close ya know.

AKheathen..... I had figured it out. I upgraded to a 250w stator. The rec has 4 wires( ground, 2 inputs from stator and power out) I put the quad aside for a few. Gotta make mounts and brackets for everyrhing now. I re-loomed the harness after eliminated all the bs safety wiring and ran everything through heat shrink. I seperated the lighting and pwr into seperate harnesses. Took the time and took the plugs off the wires to cover them as well. Looks soooooo clean now lol. sounds even better with +4. Figuered ikl repack the silencers while I got it apart too. Getting antsy to ride now lol

I 2nd that

Only vibration ive ever had at idle was my damn under frame sheilds

Well logically speaking and not seeing it in frony of me, Id say your problem is in the top end. You only have the issue with one cylinder. On the seal question water wont hurt it. Thats its job to keep stuff out. Only time that seal is gonna die is if it got cooked or messed with. Theyre pretty durrable cause if they werent everyone would have to maintain them like the top ends ya know

You will always get a lil fuel in front of the carb due to all us riding wfo all the time lol but puddling is when to be concerned

The fuel can result from a dirty carb. Peraonally when the pilot jet gets dirty ive notices fuel build up.....if the needle is set too hi it will flood really bad too. I always leave my needle clip set in the middle. There are 5 height settings for it. Also the air metering screw ive always set 1 1/4- 1 1/2 turns out. Wirks great for the altitudes I ride but higher elevations you would need to adjust out more turns accordingly for the decrease in O2. Note that ive never riden over 2500'

Sounds kinda like its flooding itself.......im not an expert at all but id go through your carbs. Check settings of all the metering screws, needle/seat, and give it a good cleaning. Its a basic check and would only cost you the time and can of carb cleaner. You may find something there and save you from dumping a lot of money into it. I know thats something id do. Personally i go through all basics first. Have you noticed any fuel puddling up between the slider and where the air box connects?

hows it feel on the bottom end? What mods you done? Have you checked your timing at all or to see of your flywheel key might be getting ready to shear?

Well I can only speak for myself ya know but like the other guy said, if you dont have the mod that require it then dont. Its kinda like the kids these day that think running race fuel in there stock engines , on or off road, makes them a lot faster.....if you understand where comming from .

I got rid of my tors crap lol......replaced the entire throttle cable. I had the resources to do it and untaped the entire harness, removed the specific wires and heat shrinked the entire harness. Took awhile with removing the wires from the connectors but it was well worth the time I spent. Looks very clean. If you dont have the time or patince to do it just cut them close to the harness and use some liquid electrical tape. That will weatherproof it

I 2nd that....+6 is a bit too much, imo.......a lot of guys dont run more than +4. Maybe +5.......i nm myself I run +4.....better safe then sorry ya know

Also if youve got a reed not sealing right on the cage you may feel the cylinder preadure come back through the carb.....that happend to me on a jet ski I had......though I dropped a cylider, had great compression but had blow back through carb and found I only had a split reed

Just a thought......clean both carbs inside. If there was anything in the bowl maybe moving it around coulda moved it around. Also, just for kicks, try flipping the main reed plate over. Ive had one instance where a plate was slightly bowed from packaging. I caught it cause I always shine a small pin light inside the cage to see if any light shines between the reed plate and cage before installing. As far as the clutch, when mine started slipping I noticed it started in 6th then as time pasted in 5th. Under initial load on upshift youll here rpm increase then come back down on the rpm as it locks up and youll feel the forward momentumn(sp) pick up. Its like letting out the clutch slow as you give it more throttle

whats funny is the manufacturer said to ground the rectifier to my cap and not the chassis

Well we figured it out, at least for the time being untill I mount the hid's and test them......added a chassis ground from the rectifier and now the capacitor is charging and im getting the same voltage at the headlight pig-tails as us comming out of the rectifier. Thanks for the imput though guys....i really appriciate it!!

Ya the y/r.....think I may have figured something out but wont know till after I get these customer cars done and can get the shee in the shop to work on it. Ill let you guys know what I find

got the stator and rec from the same company. Told them what my plan was and they floated the ground for me while I waited and sold me the correct rec for the application im doing. Called them this morning and they told me that I need to run the pos and ground wire to the same pole of the capacitor and run a dedicated pwr wire to the light switch and not to use the factory harness cause it wasnt built for AC. ive got electrical experiance but what worrires me is that I dont want the .5 farad cap to blow up in my face ya know. Guess im being over cautious. What are your thoyghts on that?

im getting 12-14v out if the rectifier. Its only after I plug in the lead into the harness it drops. I stated that earlier. The light switch is off so I shouldnt have that drop in the lighting circuit. Again, ive check voltage before the harness point of connection and as soon as I disconnect it voltage goes back up. There is no sparking when I touch the connectors together telling me i dont have a short of any kind.....

I havent even got to that point yet. 5v isnt gonna keep the batt charged night riding. Was actually gonna use a capacitor but no use in getting to that point untill ive got adiquate charging power first